WHEEL BEARING R80GS

[andy coulter]

HAVE BEARINGS AND GOING 2 DO JOB THIS WEEK BUT NOTE THAT BOOK SAYS I NEED HEAT ON HUB AND INTERNAL EXTRACTOR.
B4 I START INTO THIS CAN ANYONE TELL ME IS THIS TRUE OR CAN I WHACK ON.
ANY INFO GLADLY RECEIVED.

THANKS. ANDY

 

[andy coulter]

INFO

SHOULD HAV SAID FRONT WHEEL 1981 GS

 

[John Roberts]

Bearing change

Did mine a month ago, '82 R100RS. Used a long bolt with the head filed flat to get rid of the chamfer and leaving a sharp, square edge to tap the old ones out from the opposite side, the sockets I had had rounded edges and slipped off the bearing. Suggest you make a quick sketch of the sequence that the various bits come out, I thought I'd remember, but I didn't. Used a butane blowlamp to heat the hub up to get the new one back in. To insert the new bearings you can use a socket (I like to use the extension bar as well because I feel I can control things better) make sure you clean the socket before you use it as you dont want any shit getting on to the new bearings. I also prefer to use gentle taps with a big hammer rather than harder hits with a small one. Clean up the sleeve that the seals bear on the to make sure the lips don't get damaged, mine had a bit of rust on. Don't over grease.
Good luck.

 

[Possu]

If changing front wheel bearings, it's no different to most other bikes.

Remove any outer oils seals is present & heat up the hub on one side. I used to use a small gas torch but used a hot air gun with good results at the weekend when fitting new paralever bearings to my 1150.

You'll then need a long screwdriver or similar to catch the edge of the bearing & drift it out from opposite side. Remove spacers & knock remaining bearing out from the other side.

Clean hub, heat one side & tap new bearing in, making sure it's square at all times, Use a drift if you can, with an OD slightly smaller than that of the bearing.

Install spacers etc & install other bearing as above.

Tip: if you have a Mig welder, you can cut/file a small strip of steel to size & weld it to the inner bearing track on one side. Using a long drift against the steel strip, tap it out from the other side. There should be enough heat left in the hub to also knock the other bearing out. This works well when an bearing race has disintegrated leaving only the outer track & where normal methods won't work.

 

[andy coulter]

weekend work

Thanks John & Steve for the detailed advice. Will give it a go at the weekend and update you. Interesting about the heatgun I have one of those so i'll give it a go.

THANKS

 

[Steptoe]

You may have to re-shim the new bearings - there is a shim / spacer inside - it comes in various sizes so you can adjust any play you may get with the new bearings -

Too tight is as bad as too loose -

Just noticed the year of bike - i can't remember if there is a shim in an 82 GS wheel - there is in standard wheels up to 85

 

[andy coulter]

BEARINGS OUT

YES BEARINGS REMOVED TODAY. ONE SIDE RUSTING AND FULL OF GUNGE, PROVED DIFFICULT TO REMOVE CONE. HEAT FROM HEAT GUN LEFT PROPPED IN THE HOLE FOR 5 MINS DONE THE TRICK.
IN INSTALLING TOMORROW WILL AGAIN USE HEAT. THERE IS A SHIM FITTED, IT'S UNFORTUNATE THAT i WILL NOT KNOW IF THIS NEEDS A WIDER SHIM UNTIL I DO THE REBUILD!
i TAKE IT MOTOBINS SUPPLYS THE VARIOUS NARROWER/WIDER SHIMS?

THANKS FOR THE HELP GUY'S. MOST USEFUL

ANDY

 

[andy coulter]

JOB FINISHED

USED HEAT ON HUB AGAIN AND TAPPED NEW CONES IN WITH OLD CONE UNTIL FLUSH WITH SURFACE OF FORK LEG THEN USED ROUNDED SIDE OF SOCKET TO DRIFT THEM HOME.
SHIMS DID NOT NEED ALTERED THANK GOODNESS.
USED COPPER GREASE ON PARTS.

HOPE THIS THREAD WILL HELP OTHERS TAKING ON THIS JOB. APPARENTLY THE FLAT BEARINGS AS OPPOSED TO MY TAPERED BEARINGS ARE EVEN EASIER.

THANKS TO THE TEAM FOR YOUR CONTRIBUTIONS.