Well I would have gone for a normal one... had an 08 before... but this one was a good deal and had the tin boxes and all the electrickery... It will be getting some Roadsmarts on it, but I've got to wear down these first... they may not be great but I'm not gonna just throw them away
Wheel cleaning-Am I being a bit thick?
- Thread starter paganman
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Well I would have gone for a normal one... had an 08 before... but this one was a good deal and had the tin boxes and all the electrickery... It will be getting some Roadsmarts on it, but I've got to wear down these first... they may not be great but I'm not gonna just throw them away
Re Muc-Off
I'm pretty sure it says on the container to wet the bike before applying the Muc-Off so in effect the solution is diluted when it's sprayed on the bike. I've always done it that way and it brings the bike up all shiney and new again
I'm pretty sure it says on the container to wet the bike before applying the Muc-Off so in effect the solution is diluted when it's sprayed on the bike. I've always done it that way and it brings the bike up all shiney and new again
Deleted account 211025001
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TBH, I really don't understand the use of 'pretend' off road tyres? It's not as if they work off road........why do peeps do it?
If I intend doing a lot of off road I fit knoblies. If I ride on the road I use road tyres. Like you say, so much better than pretend off road tyres.
Andres
If I intend doing a lot of off road I fit knoblies. If I ride on the road I use road tyres. Like you say, so much better than pretend off road tyres.
Andres
So why does the GS exist at all
Want ot go offroad you can take a GSA fitted with knobblies or an HP2, staying on road use a proper road bike? Obviously following your viewpoint a "compromise bike" is no more use than "compromise tyres"? Metzeler Tourance et al exist because bikes like the GS exist and people want to buy them, obviously not yourself though?Deleted account 211025001
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So why does the GS exist at all
Dunno why you bought your GS? But I bought mine 'cos it's a really good two up tourer without being a 'tourer'. Others buy them for other, equally valid, reasons and 'that's' what makes the GS a good all round 'compromise' bike.
The point I was making was if you only ever ride on road why buy pretend knoblies when they perform less well than pure road tyres on the road / the only answer can be for 'the look' and, TBH, fair play if you admit it
Even if you do the occasional fire track pretend knoblies are no more use than road tyres.
And yes, as well as doing a lot of two up touring I do take my GS off road - as you say, a great 'compromise' bike
Andres
I first rode an 1100GS around '94 and was impressed by it's on-road ability - I owned a VFR at the time and the GS was an absolute hoot to ride and very individual. Later I sold the VFR and had a few years away from bikes before getting back on a 1200. I still consider it to be "individual" in the biking world, yes it may be the biggest selling model but that's partly because there's so few bikes in the sector resulting in owners buying the same bike - there's still many more bikers on sports bikes than enduros.
I'm approaching the wrong side of 50, I like to sit up and see my surroundings, I like lazy torque and appreciate room when seated, and I decided a long time ago that I don't do chains! Pretty well leaves the choice being the GS or the RT ... and as I mentioned I'm still the right side of 50
But .... I've had Battlewings and now swapped for Tourance EXP's. No detriment at all to the handling/performance - for my riding style. And to be honest a good set of Tourances is still better than a tired set of road tyres. Years ago I commuted for a time on a bike fitted with knobblies and learned then that they don't really work on tarmac, but happy with the Tourance compromise. And, I never go off road, but ...... I think they look a site better on the GS than the Bridgestones I had fitted before
Deleted account 190920001
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I don't think they were ever intended to be shiney
Correct they are a satin finish from new.
I used to have a KTM and some owners had their spoked rims powder coated, though they did strip the rims from the hubs. Seems a bit extreme to me but if they are out of true, as some are then kill 2 birds....
I'm just on the lookout for a cheap pair of cast wheels as I think the extra weight of the spoked ones compromises the handling. And speaking to Steve at TPCS he certainly agrees, but then he did work for Dymag.
I'm just on the lookout for a cheap pair of cast wheels as I think the extra weight of the spoked ones compromises the handling. And speaking to Steve at TPCS he certainly agrees, but then he did work for Dymag.
Time Traveller
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I had a KTM 990 Adventure before, with wire wheels of course. Wire wheels look the biz, but boy are they fekkers to keep looking nice...yes I know they're supposed to be dirty blah blah,...
... but I like the Royal Navy approach of everything Ship shape and Bristol fashion and polished - then go to war!
[Hence I went for the GS and not the GSA - and frankly my arse needs a break after 200 miles anyway, so I don't need the obese tank
)
Um, anyway, back on topic. Wheel cleaning - I personally would avoid muc-off, far too chemically agrrrressive . Better to do a regular wash down with car shampoo, then "polish" with FS365. Its actually really good on black plastics too, but the main point is it gets down the nipples and recesses, and prevents corrosion, as well as buffing up really nicely.
With FS365, don't spray (it wastes far too much) - I only spray on bits I can't reach - but (after initial wash to get rid of mud and grit) - paint it on, or use a cloth...A sash brush is good for getting in the nooks and crannies, soft cloth (microfibre is good) for main surface areas. works well on all sorts of surfaces.
I had one (yamaha) bike for 3 years, 35000 miles, three salty winters commuting - and it looked like it had come out of a show room - bolt heads still bright too. Bloke bought and wrote it off in a few months...my baby!!
ACF50 I'm less keen on (though I know it has its advocates) as you can't really use it as a cleaner to the same extent. Extremely good corrosion inhibitor, but is a dirt magnet too.
... but I like the Royal Navy approach of everything Ship shape and Bristol fashion and polished - then go to war!
[Hence I went for the GS and not the GSA - and frankly my arse needs a break after 200 miles anyway, so I don't need the obese tank
)Um, anyway, back on topic. Wheel cleaning - I personally would avoid muc-off, far too chemically agrrrressive . Better to do a regular wash down with car shampoo, then "polish" with FS365. Its actually really good on black plastics too, but the main point is it gets down the nipples and recesses, and prevents corrosion, as well as buffing up really nicely.
With FS365, don't spray (it wastes far too much) - I only spray on bits I can't reach - but (after initial wash to get rid of mud and grit) - paint it on, or use a cloth...A sash brush is good for getting in the nooks and crannies, soft cloth (microfibre is good) for main surface areas. works well on all sorts of surfaces.
I had one (yamaha) bike for 3 years, 35000 miles, three salty winters commuting - and it looked like it had come out of a show room - bolt heads still bright too. Bloke bought and wrote it off in a few months...my baby!!
ACF50 I'm less keen on (though I know it has its advocates) as you can't really use it as a cleaner to the same extent. Extremely good corrosion inhibitor, but is a dirt magnet too.
I've now tried detailing clay on the rims and Autosol on the spokes - both very effectiveNot yet but I have some and will try that first.
The clay can easily be pushed right up to the spoke holes to remove the build-up of crap and I can retreat with APF50 when I've finished. The advantage of clay is it's not as abrasive as liquid polishes but should remove any surface haze that will have adhered to the rim over time. Now I just need to work out how to arrest and improve the corrosion at the hub end of the spokes!
Careful with the Wonder Wheels stuff mate, it will strip the anodising off if you leave it long enough.
I cleaned mine up with Bilt-Hamber clay bar, well just a chunk of one, that's prepped the wheels up nicely for a bit of preservation with ACF 50.
You can use the Bilt-Hamber just with water as a lubricant, it's pretty good stuff
http://www.bilthamber.com/clay-bars
You can use the Bilt-Hamber just with water as a lubricant, it's pretty good stuff
http://www.bilthamber.com/clay-bars
Agreed. I wouldn't use Wonder Wheels anywhere near alloy or spoked wheels, car or bike, it's simply too aggressive. Simple tar remover and clay does the job fine then protect with wax & ACF 50.
Bendy toy
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I've now tried detailing clay on the rims and Autosol on the spokes - both very effective
Now I just need to work out how to arrest and improve the corrosion at the hub end of the spokes!
TBH I would have been concerned about the clay getting wedged into the spoke holes. But good info.
I use Auto Glym wheel cleaner for polished alloys, diluted 50/50 with water for cleaning bike and car wheels and brakes, no problem. The 50/50 mix was recommended on a car forum and the stuff for polished rims is less aggressive.
