Wheel seems to stick after pad change

[Warthog]

I've just changed my front brake pad on the 1150 (non servo). No real issues, pistons slid in and out pretty evenly, or with thumb pressure on one to let the other come out, so no seizing.

Pads are Steptoe's Ferodos. Its the first time I've used pads with those two wire clamps on the pads, and they made it fiddly to fit. I've also bled the brakes to to change the fluid. Torque settings cheque, bleed nipples tightened.

When the bike is on the centre stand and the front wheel off the deck, if I spin it with my hand, a hefty shove will acheive one revolution and pushing it round the garage I could feel it was stiffer than normal.

Have I assembled incorrectly or is that normal till they bed in? I don't want brake fade due to excess heat when I need my brakes the most!!

 

[Steptoe]

Its the first time I've used pads with those two wire clamps on the pads, and they made it fiddly to fit.

make sure you haven't bent/forced the clips through the hole in the pad. They should be "over" the clip, not forced through the hole by the locating pin.

Also push the pads in and put the brakes on. Do it a couple of times .

 

[Warthog]

make sure you haven't bent/forced the clips through the hole in the pad. They should be "over" the clip, not forced through the hole by the locating pin.

Also push the pads in and put the brakes on. Do it a couple of times .

The clip thing happened initially, but I managed to re-introduce the retaining pin with the clips on the correct side, each over the top of the pin. I did flex them this way and that with needle nose pliers to make sure that the pn did not snag unnecessarily.

Don't quite understand your second point, Neil. Where do I push the pads when I squeeze the lever? Do I need to push them from below? Do the calipers need to be off the forks?

 

[Steptoe]

.

Don't quite understand your second point, Neil. Where do I push the pads when I squeeze the lever? Do I need to push them from below? Do the calipers need to be off the forks?

You can remove the calipers, but it's easier to fully retract the pads with a lever against the top pad backing plate at the top of the caliper with the pads still attached to the fork legs, then pull the lever , repeat a couple of times - i.e. leave the lever in place when you force them back,then pull the (top brake) lever,then force the pads back etc etc

 

[Warthog]

Cheers, Neil.

I'll try tomorrow. If no joy, I may have to remove and clean/wet n dry the retaining pin.

That'll teach me to do my own mechanics....

 

[Steptoe]

Cheers, Neil.

I'll try tomorrow. If no joy, I may have to remove and clean/wet n dry the retaining pin.

:

That won't change a thing.

did you clean the inside of the calipers where the lugs on the edges of the the pads run ?

 

[Warthog]

Aargh!

That won't change a thing.

did you clean the inside of the calipers where the lugs on the edges of the the pads run ?

Cleaned the pins, removed the pads, removed the calipers from the forks, pumped out the pistons, blasted with brake cleaner, scrubbed with brake fluid and tooth brush for fronts and a strip of velcro for the backs. Used a screwdriver to get any crap out of the cylindrical guides that run parrallel to the pin, put copper grease on these guides (not the pistons) and the back of the pads. All pistons glide back with finger pressure (two thumbs in some cases, but no prising with screwdrivers). Pins went back in no probs, and pad clips are not stuck in the holes by the pins.

Still, when I spin the wheel, it'll go 1 revolution. I pushed the pistons back by pressing on the pads with a screwdriver and then the wheel spun twice.

The front on my Honda CB1 ( single, big disc) spins freely when I gave it a tug, but the GS won't.

Does this mean I have friction on the axle? Knackered bearings? Overfilled reservoir (bubble shows when the bars are straight)? All I know is it was harder to shift the bike back into the garage after I had changed the fluid and replaced the pads...

 

[Warthog]

Well, its not the wheel bearings or axle as the wheel spins free as a bird when the calipers are off.

I'm hoping its just a bit of extra pad depth. When I pull the lever the brakes bite and when I release the wheel turns but with some stiction, so the pistons are receding when I release the lever. Plus, I was able to fed them back in by hand when I cleaned them and the pins have been rubbed down with emery paper and WD40.

If anyone else has a similar situation, or possible cause or if your wheel spins for ages when the fronts off the ground, let me know, so I know what to expect.

 

[snoopy]

Do 100 metres in 1st and try spinning it then, if it's better then great (crap on pads/rust on discs etc) otherwise you've got a problem.

 

[Steptoe]

Did you take any brake fluid out of the master cylinder.
Is there to much fluid in it, so forcing the pad back out.

 

[Warthog]

Did you take any brake fluid out of the master cylinder.
Is there to much fluid in it, so forcing the pad back out.

I so changed the fluid yesterday. Ironically, I can't remember what I changed first: pads or fluid, but I think it was pads. The reservoir is quite full but with the wheel pointing forward, I can the fluid level "bubble" in the window. I may draw a bit of fluid out and see if that helps, I do that yesterday with about three pulls on the lever and a bleeder valve on the caliper....