Wilburs fitment.

[Delboy777]

Now peeps im going to treat my mighty steed to a set of lowered Wilburs in the new year. Since im 470 miles north of Halesowen I was thinking of getting them sent up and fitting them myself. Has anyone done this, if you did was it easy, lastly how do you set up the ESA ? Ta, Del

 

[Lord Snooty]

I had mine fitted by those guys so don't know the answers Del but why not give them a call and ask for advice and help, they are great lads and I'm sure they will give you all the assistance you need. AFAIK one of the bolts securing the suspension needs heat on it as it is loctited. I only live 11 miles from Halesowen so if you wanted to make the journey south you are welcome to a bed for the night to break the journey up.

Merry Christmas you Scottish twat!

 

[UturnTony]

Now peeps im going to treat my mighty steed to a set of lowered Wilburs in the new year. Since im 470 miles north of Halesowen I was thinking of getting them sent up and fitting them myself. Has anyone done this, if you did was it easy, lastly how do you set up the ESA ? Ta, Del

First off, think very hard about how low you go as you can cause yourself more than enough problems by going too low.

Rear is a doddle front more difficult as you need to drop the swinging arm to allow the removal of the shock.
If you have an engine bar going from one side to the other it's likely that will need to dropped to allow the
swing arm to drop low enough to allow removal of the shock.
If you are having the ESA system swapped on to new Wilbers it's just a matter of plugging back in and away you go.
If i was you, before you remove the wires to the ESA, set it to the lowest (single rider) position.

The above info. is based on my experiences of doing the job. Others may have different ideas

PS.

If this is the first time the shocks have been removed be aware that the mounting bolts are assembled with threadlock.
The usual way to remove them is to heat the assembly to soften it but, i have always just wound them out which takes
some effort and the noises the bolt makes during removal are horrendous. Make sure the tool you use is well fitting and just go steady.
Always has worked for me.

Happy Xmas

 

[Delboy777]

I had mine fitted by those guys so don't know the answers Del but why not give them a call and ask for advice and help, they are great lads and I'm sure they will give you all the assistance you need. AFAIK one of the bolts securing the suspension needs heat on it as it is loctited. I only live 11 miles from Halesowen so if you wanted to make the journey south you are welcome to a bed for the night to break the journey up.

Merry Christmas you Scottish twat!

Well there's an offer ! Thank you kind sir, i may just take you up on that. Its a long way from here and it would kill my hips to have to do it in a "single hit" down and back. I had considered doing it the Premier Inn stay but then id be stuck with the problem of getting from Halesowen to the Hotel then back again next day. I dont know how long it takes to change them but im thinking it wont be a five minute job. BTW Merry Crimbo to you n yours. Del

 

[Delboy777]

First off, think very hard about how low you go as you can cause yourself more than enough problems by going too low.

Rear is a doddle front more difficult as you need to drop the swinging arm to allow the removal of the shock.
If you have an engine bar going from one side to the other it's likely that will need to dropped to allow the
swing arm to drop low enough to allow removal of the shock.
If you are having the ESA system swapped on to new Wilbers it's just a matter of plugging back in and away you go.
If i was you, before you remove the wires to the ESA, set it to the lowest (single rider) position.

The above info. is based on my experiences of doing the job. Others may have different ideas

PS.

If this is the first time the shocks have been removed be aware that the mounting bolts are assembled with threadlock.
The usual way to remove them is to heat the assembly to soften it but, i have always just wound them out which takes
some effort and the noises the bolt makes during removal are horrendous. Make sure the tool you use is well fitting and just go steady.
Always has worked for me.

Happy Xmas

Thanks for the advice, im not sure how im going to do it but im thinking 50mm, im a short arse you know lol. Just had an offer from Lord Snooty to stay over, which is very good of him. My old hips n knees wont do 940 miles round trip in a oner so im just trying to sort out what to do. Merry Xmas.

 

[UturnTony]

Thanks for the advice, im not sure how im going to do it but im thinking 50mm, im a short arse you know lol. Just had an offer from Lord Snooty to stay over, which is very good of him. My old hips n knees wont do 940 miles round trip in a oner so im just trying to sort out what to do. Merry Xmas.

You could do no worse than speak to Steve SPM0912 of this parish as he lowered his and would no doubt advise you.

 

[Bendy toy]

I can't get both feet flat but one on footrest and one on the floor works fine. I usually stop right foot down where road camber is in my favour

IMO a 50 mm drop will make the GSA look silly and may well compromise the suspension geometry. Before committing try a GS which I believe is 25mm lower. Others will know better.

I removed the front and rear subframes from my bike for repainting.

The rear shock is easy. The front especially with ESA is well tucked away. The front swing arm is in the way. You will need to remove it.
My Showa ESA is pressurised. I didn't disconnect from the shock. You will need instructions for that.

Almost certainly the front swing arm needle rollers will be dry and worn so removal is worth doing anyway.

While in there consider replacing the top steering bearing.

 

[Delboy777]

50 mm will make the GSA look silly and will compromise the suspension geometry.
Before committing try a GS which I believe is 25mm lower.


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I believe you can go as far as 80mm according to Revs. I need to speak with someone who has done it first before i do it, but it definitely needs lowering although ive managed for three years just by having the suspension set on soft before getting on the bike.

 

[Delboy777]

You could do no worse than speak to Steve SPM0912 of this parish as he lowered his and would no doubt advise you.

Thanks i will try and see if i can get in touch with him.

 

[Delboy777]

I can't get both feet flat but one on footrest and one on the floor works fine. I usually stop left foot down where road camber is in my favour

IMO a 50 mm drop will make the GSA look silly and may well compromise the suspension geometry.
Before committing try a GS which I believe is 25mm lower. Others will know better.

I removed the front and rear subframe from my bike for repainting.

The rear shock is easy. The front especially with ESA is well tucked away. The front swing arm is in the way. You will need to remove it.
Almost certainly the swing arm needle rollers will be dry and worn.
I packed mine with grease and put back. Who knows why BMW used rollers when plain bushes would be cheaper and last longer.

While in there consider replacing the top steering bearing.

Surely the bearings would be ok as the bike has only done 8k ??


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[Bendy toy]

They should be ok but the small movement angle quickly rubs bearing grease away from the rollers. I used a high spec moly grease.


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[Delboy777]

They should be ok but the small movement angle quickly rubs bearing grease away from the rollers. I used a high spec moly grease.


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Ok I will ask them to re grease bearings when they fit the shocks


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[Bendy toy]

My GSA is a bit tall for me but I adapted. The main problems are hauling it off the side stand when parked on a left camber or getting caught needing to push it backwards on a hilly Devon lane.
Solution is parking carefully and hoping for the best on Devon lanes.

I have some non ESA GS shocks to use while the originals are rebuilt or replaced. Being GS rather than GSA I'll be able to decide what height is best for me.

 

[Delboy777]

I would like my GSA to not quite so tall. I have some non ESA shocks to use while the originals are rebuilt or replaced. Being GS rather than GSA I'll be able to decide what height is best for me.


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I need to speak to someone who has done it. Nothing wrong with my shocks but the whole idea is to lower the bike so it's a little safer for me.


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[UturnTony]

I need to speak to someone who has done it. Nothing wrong with my shocks but the whole idea is to lower the bike so it's a little safer for me.


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As i said above, Steve did it; went too low which
caused problems with the side and centre stands
which required remedial work to get them useful again.
Again, be careful what you do as you may regret it.

 

[Delboy777]

As i said above, Steve did it; went too low which
caused problems with the side and centre stands
which required remedial work to get them useful again.
Again, be careful what you do as you may regret it.

Yes I realised about those problems. I have however got a spare side stand that I can shorten. As for the centre stand it will be easy to roll bike onto a 4x2 block of wood if I need to use it. Thanks for the advice.


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[UturnTony]

Yes I realised about those problems. I have however got a spare side stand that I can shorten. As for the centre stand it will be easy to roll bike onto a 4x2 block of wood if I need to use it. Thanks for the advice.


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[Tractors are go]

If, you're going for weight specific springs, don't forget that the bike will seem taller as it won't sink so much, when you get on, as you'll be using very little preload.

 

[Delboy777]

If, you're going for weight specific springs, don't forget that the bike will seem taller as it won't sink so much, when you get on, as you'll be using very little preload.

I'm a right fat bastard real tosser size so the bike will sink lol


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[Bendy toy]

I need to speak to someone who has done it. Nothing wrong with my shocks but the whole idea is to lower the bike so it's a little safer for me.


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This is usually taken as an insult (none intended) but raised boots would be a whole lot less money. Even 1/2" can make a big difference.
Easy enough to try with some old boots.

BMW missed a trick not delivering ride height adjustment on the fly as the old Citroens used to do. It's not like the technology was untested.