Wiring a switch for spot lights

[Tommac]

I have acquired a wiring loom for some LED spots that I want to fit to my 2010 GS TC.

The kit has little documentation but the handlebar switch has a wire with a crimping style connector designed to attach to a live feed and provide power when the ignition is on. You pass the live wire through the connector which then has a small blade that cuts into the wire.

The main power for the LED spots will come direct from the battery and a relay will control them via the switch.

So a couple of questions.


Where is the best place to take this feed from? How about the wiring to the auxiliary socket under the beak?

Is it Canbus safe to do this?

Advice welcome.

Tom

 

[Deleted account 190920001]

You could use the aux socket but either the low beam or the park light is a lot closer.

 

[Fanum]

I've got a nasty feeling that the connector with the small blade in it is a scotchlock:

I'm not going to suggest anything about the wiring positions for you 'cos I don't do much work on 1200s, but one thing I will definitely suggest is that you DO NOT use the scotchlock.

They have their applications in dry, shake proof places, but IMO should never be used on a motorcycle, or under a car bonnet.

There are lots of reasons why, but honestly, use a different way to tap into the live feed

 

[DING-DONG]

I used the sat nav feed to activate the relay that way the canbus stays live for 30 secs after ignition is turned off and so fogs light up my drive when I go to open the gates the. Auto turns off.

 

[gerarddwatts]

Look up 'posi-tap' connectors on eBay...can't post links from France. ......where it is still in the 80's at 8.30 while I sip a nice Cotes du Rhône after my boeuf......

 

[tanneman]

I did use the live from the dipped bean. That way you can only use the spots with the engine running.

 

[Bendy toy]

On a GSA you could use one of the aux headlight leads to switch the relay.
The GS probably has the connectors hidden away somewhere.

 

[seahorse]

Or live feed to 12v socket under the seat?

 

[adventuredon]

as bad as scotch locks. Tried it myself, not very long lasting.

Look up 'posi-tap' connectors on eBay...can't post links from France. ......where it is still in the 80's at 8.30 while I sip a nice Cotes du Rhône after my boeuf......

 

[Tommac]

Thanks for all the advice. I wasn't happy about using the scotchlock so will do a proper job using the auxiliary power socket feed.

Cheers all

Tom

 

[Delboy777]

I took the feed for my FF50s directly from the battery. And ran a trigger wire from the dipped headlight too a relay through a handlebar switch...................simples.

 

[Rocketman]

Try these connectors from eBay I've started using them and can't fault them ,I also keep a couple under the seat.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261178929701

 

[MattW]

Solder and self amalgamating tape.

 

[Buckingham]

Insulation displacement connectors like Scotchlock are not suitable for any environment where there could be movement or vibration - long term they will fail (and they look like a bodge) - as per previous post, solder & self-amalgamating tape is the permanent answer.

 

[Slipperyeel]

A PDM 60 with a switch somewhere in the + lead and you're sorted. No relays or fuses and you can tailor it's on/off behaviour as you fancy. And of course you can plug all the other accessories into it with the same ease...

Personally i think it's a superb bit of kit if you're into fitting electrical accessories. And no, i have zero connection with the company, I'm just a very happy customer!




Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

 

[Buckingham]

I did use the live from the dipped bean. That way you can only use the spots with the engine running.

Where exactly did you connect into the dipped beam wire ?

 

[Buckingham]

I did use the live from the dipped bean. That way you can only use the spots with the engine running.

Where exactly did you connect into the dipped beam wire ?