wiring plugs and sockets

[rockchunk]

hello there got a couple of plugs and sockets from jaythro of this site and would like to fit them up near the handle bars to power my tom tom and ipod among others question is what is the quickest and easiest way of wiring these up and do you have to use one of those relays i have pretty limited knowledge of electronics so im therefore looking for the simplest way without running the risk of setting the bike on fire ,,,,thanks in advance for any info

 

[MattW]

If you normally ride with lights on and if it's only for low current items, then one of the simplest ways is to jump off the pilot light feed inside the headlight shell (using an inline fuse in the feed to the power socket). I did this to power my satnav and it works fine.

But, this only works for low current items such as GPS, MP3 players etc. The danger in your setup is that in theory anything could be plugged into your socket (my satnav is permanently wired and doesn't use a plug / socket).

Anything which draws more current should use a relay and a dedicated feed from the battery. In your case, given that you're wiring in a socket, a direct fused feed via a relay is probably more appropriate.

 

[rockchunk]

hello there got a couple of plugs and sockets from jaythro of this site and would like to fit them up near the handle bars to power my tom tom and ipod among others question is what is the quickest and easiest way of wiring these up and do you have to use one of those relays i have pretty limited knowledge of electronics so im therefore looking for the simplest way without running the risk of setting the bike on fire ,,,,thanks in advance for any info

forgot to mention its an 03 1150gs

 

[DutchBryn]

Morning all! I seem to have even more time on my hands than normal, so, and additional H'penny:

For the purposes of fitting an Acc. socket, others here are better informed as to whether Herr BMW had the foresight to include spare fused outputs from fuse box (?) Handy if he did. If not, it is simply a question of connecting suitable cabling, c/w inline fuse to your socket of choice.

I think there might be some confusion regarding relays.
Relays permit the safe 'switching' of high initial loads.
If a set of contacts are asked to switch too much current, they can weld shut or have bits blown-off the edges of the contacts (etc blah).
Normally then, 'heavy' items tend to be switched using relays, because the heavy contacts within the (appropriately selcted) relay are designed to handle the spikes and hi current present when this occurs.
Using relays allows the use of those nice little switches we have on our handle bars.
All those switches do is to pull-in a coil within the relay, which, again, is
doing to real 'switching'. Allowing also the use of those thin wires you see
going to and from your handle bar switches. Several tens of mili Amps instead many many Amps.

So. Back to your socket (get on with it!!), here, the switching bit (ie what relays do) is what you're doing when you plug into your acc. socket.
Nothing to worry about there (assuming app. useage).

If in doubt leave it out. Electrical fires are not good.

B.

 

[Grazoid]

I think there might be some confusion regarding relays.

I think there maybe more people confused now!

 

[Popeye]

If Anything which draws more current should use a relay and a dedicated feed from the battery. In your case, given that you're wiring in a socket, a direct fused feed via a relay is probably more appropriate.

I have to say MattW that on more than one occassion I am left bewildered by your lack of technical knowledge but applaud your enthusiasm to help

DutchBryn has it right.

 

[fatnfast]

Take a feed direct from the battery with an inline fuse for protection in the positive line. Put the fuse as close to the battery as possible. To keep it simple, I would connect both the +ve and -ve direct to the respective battery terminals, with the other ends connected to the socket. Route the cable in a way that it will not be subjected to heat from the exhaust/mechanical damage.
Do your 'wiring' with the battery disconnected.
You cannot use these sockets to jump start your bike etc, and do not need a relay at all.
The fuse holder and cable can be bought from places like Halfords. Use a fuse rated at approx 8 amps max and pick cable that is rated well above this.

+ --FUSE------------------(SOCKET +
b
a
t
t
- -------------------------(SOCKET -

 

[MattW]

I have to say MattW that on more than one occassion I am left bewildered by your lack of technical knowledge but applaud your enthusiasm to help

DutchBryn has it right.

Feel free to set me right whenever you like Popeye.

I'd appreciate details of the other occasions that my lack of technical knowledge has bewildered you - just so I don't make the same mistakes again?

 

[Stewart H]

Take a feed direct from the battery with an inline fuse for protection in the positive line. Put the fuse as close to the battery as possible. To keep it simple, I would connect both the +ve and -ve direct to the respective battery terminals, with the other ends connected to the socket. Route the cable in a way that it will not be subjected to heat from the exhaust/mechanical damage.
Do your 'wiring' with the battery disconnected.
You cannot use these sockets to jump start your bike etc, and do not need a relay at all.
The fuse holder and cable can be bought from places like Halfords. Use a fuse rated at approx 8 amps max and pick cable that is rated well above this.

+ --FUSE------------------(SOCKET +
b
a
t
t
- -------------------------(SOCKET -

That is just about what I did for mine, with the addition of a spur to feed my driving lights, which I switched using a feed from the front sidelight. via a relay, I ended up with a fuse sitting on top of the airbox, easy to check.
Stewart

 

[DutchBryn]

I Don't normaly disagree with Matt. V. rare.

And if I wasn't clear, it just goes to show why I'm not a teacher!