World Tour of Scotland, a Bank Holiday break

[fritz]

Thursday Afternoon
From Lowland to Highland the senses of a motorcyclist will make many and varied adjustments, the first to strike us this year was nasal.
Leaving the (not actually) lowland of North Yorkshire our noses were filled with the musky scent of oilseed rape, its vivid gold lighting up the landscape. Occasional shady woodland sections gave powerful garlic but a day or two later and though the colours would still be golden it would be the heady scent of coconut that would replace it. Less Sunshine on Leith, more Sunshine on Gorse!
We left work just after three and set off for the first overnight stop, Edinburgh. The intention was to avoid major roads except if absolutely necessary. The twisty backroads to Scotch Corner and a very brief section of A1 to Barton Interchange to pick up the A6275 magnetic north. Clearly a Roman road it hacks off arrow straight but uppy downy to the A68, itself a rollercoaster ride. A brief right on the A69 to pick up the B6309, the section past Welton around Hadrian’s Wall intriguing with a linked set of reservoirs and watercourses. Though I’d written a list of (vague) directions I became ‘navigationally inconvenienced’ and ended up missing a junction and finding we were entering Ponteland. Though off-route it was not an issue as just an opportunity to discover something new, which we did when choosing a dead-end road in error. I have never seen so many large and very poorly executed houses in one spot. Carbuncles would be too good a term. It was like there had been a competition to create the shittest house designs going then build them close together. Several plots probably had pleasant 1930s or 50s houses originally but they’d been removed and huge grandiose piles of crap erected in their place. I’m all for individuality and don’t want to seem stuck-up of snobby but google earth Runnymede Road or Western Way and make your own decision. I can only assume there are a lot of footballers or lottery winners building in the area (hush my mouth). In fact I just looked up the Wiki entry and it appears our hunches were very true! Bizarre! A worthy distraction then and one no GPS would have allowed.
Back on route we took the B6524 for Morpeth to pick up the A697 for Wooler and Coldstream. I’d neglected to notice the B6524 didn’t have a junction on the A1 so we ended up a few more small backroads before joining the A1 in order to immediately leave it and take the very pleasant and quiet 697 to Scotland. Hitting the City Bypass at Edinburgh we took the old A1 into Leith and our first overnight stop at the Premier Inn. Knew it would be a brief stop so just needed a room and access to some new scenery for us.
We just had enough time to change before heading up to the Loch Fyne for our first (of many) seafood treats. We’d arrived a bit too late to explore far so just took in the immediate area and noted a large Asda suitable for breakfast and confirmed we may come back – sans m/c – to explore the area more thoroughly. We would normally stay up at South Queensferry as it’s a really interesting area and we know it well, but thought a change would be good – don’t know this side of Edinburg at all, another time!

199 Miles

 

[fritz]

Friday

For the last 20 years or so we have had a strange little thing going on, luckily it’s something that I can discuss publically! Where ever we go once we return we mark up the map with the route – not uncommon I suspect. However, after a few trips up around Scotland you start noticing that there are fewer roads you haven’t been on and we started wondering could we work our way through them. Never really been a collector (overlooking stamps and a phase with Wade Whimsies as a child) but it works on the principle that the excellent Michelin maps colour the scenic roads with a green highlight which is helpful, but often the other roads can be just as good – whole sections of the county could just be green to be frank. This lead to us thinking we could, in theory, work our way through whole swathes of the north of Scotland and in fact over the years we probably have. There are more roads than indicated on the maps but let’s not get too serious about this!
Following breakfast as Asda – cheap and whatever size you wanted we set off round the coastal frontage towards the Forth Bridge. A very pleasant area worthy of exploration on foot in the future.
So to pick up a few more new roads and combine with some old favourites. With a destination up near Dornoch north of Inverness the A9 would be the natural, but not best choice. We headed across the Forth Bridge and up the M90 for a little headway before veering off across country at Kinross bound for Comrie. Magnificent roads and we stumbled on Cultybraggan Camp, a very interesting little spot worth goggling – basically an old army camp that was used to house the most fanatical of Nazi POWs during WWII. Having chosen not to travel via the A9 (and the wonderful average speed cameras) we were headed for Glen Coe. The little road to the south of Loch Earn is basically knackered (or a cycle & foot friendly route as the local highway wags term it – bollocks, just means it’s not properly maintained - I’d not want to take my road bike along there ta).
Having travelled up to Scotland so many times to walk and climb in winter (not a ‘bagger’) it’s great riding around looking to hills you’ve built a previous relationship with. Scottish mountains may be tiddlers in the world order but few others can offer such big days with a pint at the end, amongst the best. There was plenty of snow left – the previous week I’d been up walking and we’d encountered the old blizzard and temps are still cool for the time of year based on most previous visits.
Though not the direct route, the A82 is far nicer and always feels like an unrolling carpet tempting you onwards to even greater things. Ben Lui still held a good winter coat – quite possible to scale its north face on ice even late into spring when conditions are good, a truly great mountain – with a truly enormous walk in and out for the pleasure. Past the Green Welly and a lovely ride with cracking views of Black Mount. Glen Coe seldom disappoints (ignoring the crowds, natural enough) and again the amount of snow being held high up was impressive. The ride into Fort Bill is always a let down in comparison – once in a flood you get the road to yourself, but as usual not this time. A chance to fill up and an easy option of a meal in the supermarket café. A steam loco pulled into the station whilst we were parking up, nice.

It used to be a pleasure of crossing the border to come across so many cheerful waves from fellow bikers, not so much now unless you’re in the sticks – guess it because most are tourists rather than locals. Lots of bikes about though, even more than motor homes (just).
Though the weather kept threatening it never actually came to anything fortunately – not exactly warm mind. Travelling up to Fort Agustus we pulled off for a peak at Invergarry Castle. Stopped there a few years back for a comfort break as they advertised tea and cakes. True to their word they invited us in to their plush carpeted abode even though we were wet bedraggled bikers, quite heart-warming. This time we didn’t stop other than to admire the newly restored WWI memorial, presume done for the centenary – the folks from these parts of the world certainly did their bit with the Lovat Scouts and the Seaforth highlanders. Nice to see the monument standing proud.

 

[fritz]

Turning off the main road and heading to the east side of Loch Ness we took the small roads even further east giving up the views of the water for spectacular distance views across to Inverness. The weather was glorious and the road not too surprisingly quiet. Headed up the dead-end Gerragie Lodge and along the ‘unsuitable for motors’ road for a bit, but we still had a way to go.
Dropping into Inverness we fuelled up at a brand new Asda (They seem to offer the lowest fuel prices, overlooking issues of conscious and availability, at least they are open 24/7). As we were headed for Rogart Station there was a small road over from Bonar Bridge we planned taking. The A836 approach is preferential as the views over the Dornoch Firth are spectacular. Having found the minor road we found it was having a lot of work done and in fact was closed further up – bugger, as we were running a bit late for our stated arrival time. We followed a diversion and ended up the other side of a bridge they were working on. Thinking we were sorted we continued up onto the bleak tops finding lots of work in hand and even a few stretches of road foundation that didn’t seem quite right. Further on we came across 3 guys and a 360 excavator ripping up the road in front of us. Eh? The guys engaged briefly and said the road was closed, no – really? They said the signing was in place, but doing this sort of thing as a job it reminded me of the pretty crappy attempts at signing around our way – how often do you find a road closed these days after you’ve sailed past all the alternative routes. No option but to return and go the (now) long way. Sleeperzzz wasn’t manned on our rather delayed arrival. We’ve been before so knew the score, Kate had left us phone messages and a note and all was well.
Sleeperzzz is well known amongst the folks here, but it doesn’t do any harm to mention how good it is again. Great character with railway carriage accommodation along with quirky options of a Bedford bus or a showman’s wagon. We had the bus this time, and though a little cool at this time of year it’s full of character and comfortable. The kitchen/toilet/shower facilities are in adjacent railway carriages rather than en-suite, but the place is unique. Kate and Frank made us welcome on their return and brought some extra heaters (needed for the first night, ‘twas cold). We’d chosen Sleeperzzz as it’s a good base for the NW…provided you like long rides, and up here who doesn’t?

292 Miles

 

[fritz]

Saturday

We awoke next morning feeling pleasantly warm – the radiant effect of the sun, a great sign! Horizon to horizon blue sky and no wind – get in!
The kettle in the bus got us underway with warm drinks before we headed out for the magnificence of Sutherland. Seen some very beautiful and special places over the years but Sutherland is just the one place we still think could just be the best, something about the remoteness (even today) and the way most of the mountains rise up from the landscape like battleships rather than congregating in large masses. And even though a long way from home, it’s far easier to get to than the Alps, the Himalaya or Patagonia!
We got to Lairg and pulled in at the shop for a bit of light breakfast to take up to a nicer view. Only in Scotland – my choice was a beef burger pie, new to me! Don’t think I’ll be having another; they were all out of macaroni pies – when in Rome! The views across to the east face of Ben More Assynt were stunning. Just last Friday I’d been up there with a bunch of friends, lots of snow remaining and looking considerably better over there today. I love the ride up to Altnaharra because of it’s bleakness. Most every week Altnaharra get the pleasure of being the coldest recorded weekly temperature in the UK, though I do remember – I think last year? - it was the warmest. It’s a hell of a place to live anyway. All roads up here are great, but the Road of Desolation is a favourite. No idea why it carries that name as it’s well serviced with cafes, shops and petrol stations…OK, if you don’t know, nothing could be further from the truth! It’s about as small a road as you can get. Naturally (!!!) it’s a Mecca for motor homes these days, there were 6 in just a short stretch and not together. I would think it’s one of the most inappropriate places to take a motor home in all honesty but good luck to one we passed (quite unaware we were following it) when it stopped for a picture as a little way further we met and even larger one going the other way. Probably still up there trying to pass each other. I guess there are plenty of folks that think the same of motorcycles – especially travelling in pack formation. Each to their own.
We have a favoured wild camping spot up here, but not today. Ben Hope rises high by the roadside, the most northerly Munro for baggers, but nearby Ben Loyal offers far better character and less attention.
Loch Erribol is another wonderful, but often amazingly bleak spot. Laid has developed quite a few characterful modern houses and it’s nice to see some modern designs being built into the landscape, not sure I could live up there permanently, love it, but not to live. The area has lots of interest from Iron-age wheel house and souterrains to the stones on the hillside marking the berthing of HMS Hood and the like. We spent a week up here a few years ago and had a good old explore of the area. Wild, desolate and fascinating.

 

[fritz]

The top corner as you turn west again has some of the most beautiful beaches you’ll see, all bar the sea temperature! Don’t let the azure blue sea and white sands tempt you! Durness used to be a lost spot and a very isolated corner 25 years ago and though still mainly that way this corner of Scotland has revitalised in more recent times. The Balnakeil Craft Village has varied over the years but there is usually something of interest to see. Cocoa Mountain is one such. They claim they do the best hot chocolate in the UK and though £7.50 for two I think they perhaps are justified. A meal in itself and probably not the healthiest option, but very very good. Only better one we’ve had was in Buenos Aires (a long way to go). That one was served in silver wear and comprised a jug of melted chocolate with one of cream – and it was as fantastic as it sounds. Well worth stopping whilst in Durness though, a really great hot chocolate. It was greying over, but not quite decided on itself weather-wise so we pushed on down towards Lochinver. My visit the week before had left me telling Bev about how good the food was we’d enjoyed so I wanted to take here there for some of the same.
Stopping off a Scourie to buy a couple of tins of ‘Sweetheart Stout’, an old habit that started back in the 90’s and has carried on each passing since. Love the old style design and the fact at 2% it won’t push you over the edge (I should say they were for later!). After Kylesku it was the Drumbeg Road. Another cracker of a road and not to be rushed. The weather was now changing and obviously going to get wet shortly. The viewpoint outside Lochinver looking over the Sutherland hills made it obvious we should get inside soon. I’ve loved these mountains since the first time I saw them. On my first m/c trip back in 87 or so a mate and I parked up and walked in to Suilven (14km round trip!) he had his leather jacket under his arm the whole way, and I had some green suede books that ran and dyed my nails for months. Must have been bloody mad! What made it even more memorable was the weather changed and we got soaked all the way up the mountain and back – saw nowt from top! Stupidly I did it all over again a couple of years ago but without the bike but this time it was raining when we started and didn’t let up. So, in two long visits I’ve never seen the views! Fantastic mountains though, fantastic.
Of the four main places to eat in the village we went to the one I think best – Lochinver Larder (‘pie shop’).
We got in before needing waterproofs, just, and sat down for a very long leisurely meal. Express request that we were in no rush at all, and they had the space to accommodate that. We stayed a couple of hours (or so!) and avoided the majority of the rain. The food is fantastic – scallops for starters and langoustines for mains. The picture tell the story. Years ago all the good stuff came off the boats onto trucks and went to Spain and France. Thank goodness people are more aware now and you can get great seafood so easily. On one of our previous visits the Seaman’s Mission was closing due to a lack of boats – only occasional foreign boats and that was it. Very pleased to see the harbour was busy with boats unloading and trucks taking stuff away still – but not all of it! Last w/e I’d stayed at the Seaman’s Mission but now it’s a bunk house. Great to see Lochinver is resurgent. After an extremely leisurely meal (lovely folk too) we struggled into the full waterproofs to continue homewards. It had stopped raining, but there was plenty of water about!
Never seen so many deer low down as this year – another sign temps are cool and the midges haven’t made an appearance I’m guessing. The deer really are a hazard at the moment – everywhere and caution is required as they are very well disguised even though you wouldn’t think so. Probably more deer than sheep – crazy numbers around these parts.
A few minor roads on way back and a quick look at the falls of shin – not that spectacular, but midge free and cool enough that the full waterproofs didn’t make it too unpleasant wandering about.

213 Miles

 

[fritz]

food at the pie shop!

 

[fritz]

Sunday

Now for a trip over to the other side of the country, Aberdeen way. I’d booked a deal through Travelzoo and we were moving from bus to 4*. Cousin James had just returned to the far north-east and said he’d have a run down on the GS to meet us for a brew and chat before we left. Always a pleasure but the weather with us was not that great so guessed a 150 mile round trip for James might not be that welcome. As it was the weather was fine on his way down and we spent a leisurely hour of so nattering and packing. As we’d gone on to reserve on way back last night we took a trip up to the local petrol station to fuel up, being a Sunday it was closed, ah! James accompanied us down to Tain (just in case we ran dry) and we got re-fuelled. Probably had 4 litres left, but had done 490kms so was getting marginal. Said our farewells before spitting opposite directions.
We swung by the excellent Black Isle Brewery before Inverness and ended up buying box of 8 beers – just as well the rack on the back was free and we had some straps – Boy Scout stuff! The lady that staffs the place is lovely and it was an enjoyable diversion, quite a few folk there having the free sampling and brewery tour. There beers are very tasty and it’s great to see they have expanded and have a lovely new visitor centre since we last called 7 years ago. Bin bag and string completed the packing as showers were catching us up.

 

[fritz]

Beyond Inverness we donned full waterproofs and then spent the day in them without ever actually getting properly rained on, insurance! We planned a few roads we’d not been on as opposed to taking in the high cairngorms (may not have been so great in the weather mind). Speyside roads are nice enough and the distilleries are generally in nice spots anyway. There are a few new ones springing up and we came across one that looked like it might only just have been finished, very contemporary and impressive. The strong sunlight gave us great wafts of coconut from the gorse to counter the smells generated by the various distilleries. The scenery was more rolling and there was lots to see from castles and follies to the cast bull celebrating the Aberdeen Angus at Alford.
We were staying at Norwood Hotel (on aforementioned deal) and it didn’t disappoint. If you like Victorian piles and have an interest in the arts and crafts style it’s a great spot. Modern wings for accommodation so huge modern posh rooms, but open fires and glorious decoration in the main building. Unpacked and freshened up before going for the included food. Naturally with a deal the place hopes you’ll ‘buy’ extra and the wine list was certainly not cheap, but, when in Rome. The food was great and we enjoyed wandering around looking at the building after eating. Also enjoyed a very good night’s kip so very pleased.

202 miles

 

[fritz]

Monday

Final day, a chance to try a few more unknown roads even though clearly a long way from home. Most people would be heading straight home by this stage, but we’re made of more stupid stuff! Got up early but lost all advantage by enjoying a relaxed lengthy breakfast, and good it was too. Weather set fair so it was looking good for another full day in the saddle.
Looks like Aberdeen is getting a bypass judging from the work going on to the south. From Stonehaven and views of Dunnottar (well worth a visit) we took to the more minor coastal road. Nice part of the world, brief foray to a ‘retired’ lighthouse (Todd Head) watching Martins at work building their nests on its ramparts. On the way back a modern house set to a tight slope caught our eye – a fine piece of design (dependant on taste) that sat nicely in its surroundings. The beaches north on Montrose stretch for miles and it’s hard to believe ever get crowded. Arbroath was somewhere I hadn’t been since being a kid, but now the thought of ‘Smokies’ drew us in. There are lots of shops that will do you the honour which is nice to see, back home there is just the one Fortunes for kippers in Whitby – nice to see Arbroath can support so much choice. The selection of fish, smoked salmon along with ‘smokies’ was very tempting. A nice fat lump of smoked salmon was duly vacuum sealed to be packed along with a pair of smokies – unsealed the smell would probably be with us for months!
Down to Dundee and a left turn for the Fife coast, new to us. St Andrews was getting busy – had completely overlooked how beautiful a place (and broader area) this is. I always think golf (not in a positive way mind), but of course this is Scotland Cambridge and Eton, and ancient university town – definitely somewhere to return to, always good finding new places. The coast around back towards Kirkaldy was an eye opener. Loads of lovely villages the like of which you only get at the coast – like North Yorkshire and Devon and Cornwall combined. Definitely somewhere to come back to and explore over a long w/e, just about close enough. Squaring the circle we took the M90 over the Forth and the City Bypass before it got anywhere near school chucking out time and commuter time.

 

[fritz]

As the Bank Holiday was only in England it made travel better – negotiating Edinburgh is not always the most pleasurable. Luckily it was straight forward and the A7 was soon on our doorstep.
A return along the route we took up, in the main. Stopped in Coldstream and wrangled a large piece of cake from the café – in too halves it would have been unsaleable, I’m sticking to that! We were back to the musky delights of oil seed rape fields, and the splatter of large quantities of insect life. We turned off at Rothbury and headed over towards Otterburn on roads that seemed appalling after being in Scotland, spoilt for a few days.
Heart in mouth moments cresting the dips on the A68 led back to familiar territory. OK, it’s not the highlands, but there is some great scenery down here none the less, soon we were back on familiar local roads and enjoying distant views back to Sutton Bank and home.

355 miles.

Four and a half days, and 1,262 miles later we were home early evening, knackered but happy, another great trip to a glorious part of the world. Think I’ll leave it more than tree days before returning though – you can get too much of a good thing


A few of you will note all the photo's are there...but not necessarily in the correct order must get a f***kr account and imbed in future

 

[Dusty]

Great read mate.... lovely lookin bike there.....

thanks for the report...defo worth a trip next year me thinks

 

[mspenz]

Nice one fritz, nice route and I'm liking your bike.

Someone has written into the MCN this week to complain about the state of the roads in the NW Highlands but you have been totally positive throughout, I would say to that guy ' get yourself a decent bike'..
I also live and ride up here and have made the 330 mile return trip to the 'Cocoa Mountain' in Durness for coffee/cake and truffles a few times now and last year had to ford a river as the road had been washed out near Ben Hope, well worth it though.

 

[Whatton]

Good, old school trip write up. Enjoyed it thank you

 

[flatdog]

Sitting in Normandy ATM and your excellent report just makes me want to head up there.

Never yet been north of Sunderland

 

[doyle]

A well written and informative report. I agree with exploring different roads and places with each ride if at all possible,there is always something new to discover.

 

[Browny]

I've really enjoyed reading your trip report, Fritz. Thanks for posting it up.

You haven't lost the magic touch!

Sounds like you and Bev had a great time together.

Best wishes, Kev

 

[John B]

Scottieland

Hi Fritz,
Thanks for a great report, the Cultybraggan bit bought back a few memories, at school I was in the CCF, (Cadet force) and we had a week at Cultybraggen with the regular army, on one exercise we were paddling large tin boats in Loch Earn, heard a few bangs and splashes nearby, we were under fire from live rounds! one way to keep your head down as instructed, I believe H&S was a little different in those days CheersJohn B

 

[Spectre]

Great ride report and a few new roads to try..... Always a pleasure to meet up with the pair o ya! Just need to sort those waterproofs out!!

 

[kurienp]

Wow! awesome trip Fritz and thanks for sharing . Want to go back there more often now to find some of them hidden gems.

 

[Davey B]

Great Sunday morning read Fritz. Hope Bev didn't encounter any grumpy 'servers' who didnt know what NO citrus meant !
Staying at Sleeperz in 10 days, looking forward to being way oop North again.
Apparently ... Known as Destitution or Desolation Road, it was constructed by hungry crofters during the great potato
famine of 1846-7, when their only wages were handouts of food.
There was a village there and the buildings were levelled and used as part of the road, the village residents set sail to Canada but all were lost at sea.