XCP vs ACF on new engine cases.

Having spent 40 odd years in commercial aviation, being a EASA multi type rated licensed engineer on medium and large, multiengined, complex rotorcraft, I can vouch for ACF50. Aircraft manufacturers specify ACF 50 as part of their maintenance schedule. If it didn’t do what it says on the can, the manufacturer (Lear chemical research) would be out of business. Look in any Pt145 aircraft maintenance facility POL locker and you will find ACF50 in one shape or another.
At the end of the day, you use what you are used to and what gives proven results.
 
Having used both ACF50and XCP and many other products over the years on my R1200GSA & K1600GTL, ACF50 has been my long term choice.

When I purchase my R1200GSA new in 2014, the BMW dealer hadn’t heard of ACF50. Chatted to the service manager about the product and within a few months they were offering the “Winterisation Service” for the ACF50 application (I don’t think it was just down to me, since a lot of customers probably made this request).

Having treated my R1200GSA to ACF50 from new (every 6 months approx), and I’m happy to report that the bike has zero rust or corrosion to engine, frame, wheels, nuts or bolts ect.

I tried XCP once, however, as mentioned on this thread, it leaves a thick waxy finish to your pride and joy – hence I found it unsatisfactory. Tried FS365 also, but also as mentioned on here, it needs regular application, since it just washes off.

For me, application is key: ACF50 can be applied via spray bottle, air compressor or via my preference by using a soaked sponge/microfibre cloth to leave a fine film. Just wear rubber gloves and wipe the bike down. When spraying, I found that I applied the product on too thick and consequently this application method was wasteful.

Prior to applying ACF50, I clean the bike down with SDoc100 (Brilliant stuff) – spray on SD100 and adgitate with paintbrush, leave for 10minutes or so, then wash off with hose. SDoc100 leaves a thin protective film on the bike. Loads of Youtube reviews on the interweb.
 
so wiped it down and been for a ride - brakes cleaned up easily and still operate - unlike ACF50 where u land no brakes for months and months - so quite clearly its a very different substance - and in my earlier post a bit scary they only state XCP Clearcoat is OK to go on bare metal and nothing else (no mention of plastics, rubber, paint, graphic stickers or instrument glass !

having wiped the most heavy wet areas down after 24 hrs - all manner of hair and dust is all over the bike - I would suggest its most closely related to spray on Vaseline for heavy winter underside protection.

So if you're going to splash around in rock salt, brake and tyre slush for a few weeks over winter get this gunk all over the underside likely makes lots of sense - then come spring just wash it off and clean the bike with ACF50
 
After reading the feedback and comments here I think I will stick with using ACF50. Method of application, after a good deep clean, is with a compressor and spray gun which ensures it gets to even the most unreachable parts of the bike. Both wheels are covered before spraying and then they are done manually using a small paint brush. This avoids getting acf on the brake pads, discs or tyres. A wipe down of all open surfaces finishes off the job nicely. For me the tackiness of acf is just about right - not too thin so it's gone in no time, and not so thick that it results in a layer of oily debris stuck to the bike. In this case I'll follow the adage 'if it ain't broke, don't try to fix it'. Happy days.
 
I often forget to mention the application method, the ACF cans come out thick and blobby, whereas a compressor and paint spray gun - both relatively inexpensive these days, and the compressor is just so handy for all sorts of things, it seems like a no brainer for anyone with a few vehicles and a propensity to do the most basic of maintenance, if you're prepared to buy cans of ACF and fuck about applying it i'd say you should invest in a compressor...

...It also brings an application down from a few quid a pop out of spray cans to under a quid a pop, as well as being much quicker and doing a much better job, pop off seats and easily removeable bodywork and it will help protect electrical connectors etc.

I just wrap some old towels / bedding around the tyres and discs, and spray some ACF onto a MF cloth to do the wheels / calipers without getting it on the brakes / tyres.
 
There is no need for a compressor with ACF50 and I’ve been using it for years to prove the point; stick the can in very hot water , hot enough that you can only just hold it. Wait for the internals to really heat up and the resultant spray will be perfect .
 
GrinningGSer said:
There is no need for a compressor with ACF50 and I’ve been using it for years to prove the point; stick the can in very hot water , hot enough that you can only just hold it. Wait for the internals to really heat up and the resultant spray will be perfect .
Click to expand...
A compressor gets a very fine mist that gets into every nook and cranny and leaves a very fine coat on everything, be surprised if a hot can can match that level of atomisation?

I once tried warming the can, but not to the same on the brink of causing an explosion level with better results but not close to the compressor method.
 
ACF50 applied with a brush onto engine fins works for me. I just spray (not aerosol) into a shallow container and apply with brush. Then wipe excess with clean microfibre. 👍
 
Rasher , I am sure that a compressor can do the finest of sprays , but heating up is the next best thing and is extremely effective .
It is extremely runny when hot and solidifies as it cools.
ACF50 also ‘creeps ‘, so no danger of missing anywhere.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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