Ypres to the Somme
Just a short, long weekend away, close to home.
Having a few days spare I had wanted to visit some of the WW1 sites. After a bit of research and advice from fellow Tossers, this is what I found.
I planned to leave home at 7.30 on the morning of Friday the 28th of August; I actually got away at 7.45 that for me is just exceptionally well timed.
I had a 3-hour ride down to the tunnel from Norwich, all by dual carriageways or motorways. Leaving home the temperature was a cool 8c, heated grips on everything tucked in I hoped it would soon warm up as the morning got brighter, as it was it got colder until I reached the M25 where the temperature started to rise and peaked at 13c but then it started to rain, you just couldn’t win, I was still smiling all be it through gritted teeth, as this was what biking is about for me enjoying the moment.
Turning up at the Tunnel, was a quick check in, straight onto the first train then of once in France. The sat nav was programmed to get me to the Jeugdstadion campsite in Ypres (Belgium). 1 hour later I was in Ypres. Seeing as I left the uk without any cash I took a ride around Ypres, first to help me orientate myself, then to find a bank, With all that done sat nav was telling me the campsite was less than half a mile away. Following the town wall I knew that the campsite couldn’t be to far away as I had seen pictures whilst doing the research. As it was the sat nav took me to the side of the site that was protected by trees, the entrance was one street away. Checking in was all done by machine, press for English press for tent, persons, nights, car, caravan and so on. I had a choice of pitches well the whole field, seeing as I was the only one camping.
They’re where a few campervans but they are on a different part of the site. Everything set up; it was time for a quick cupper then head of into town for a walk around and check out In Flanders Museum.
As it was by the time I got into town, found where everything was I only had a couple of hours before things started to shut. I decided to start the visiting in the morning. All I had to do on my list for that day was the Last Post. After a bit more walking around I headed back to the campsite to get a quick shower then head back to Menin Gate for 8.
The crowds started to gather about 7.30 in and around the memorial, which is Menin Gate, by 7.50 the main road through the gate is closed to traffic, to let everyone gather all the way around. The Friday night I was there they had 3 buglers.
As they marched on at 8, the whole place went silent, the buglers played the last post which sounded amazing and very moving in the confines of the gate. There was a bit more of remembrance and by 8.10 everything was over and people went their own way. I headed of to find a restaurant in the town square.
I had a lovely meal with a couple of beers then back to the tent ready for the morning. Not the best nights sleep there was a constant hum of noise, not loud, just in the background and when ever the wind changed direction I could hear a disco going on somewhere. Earplugs would have solved all this. Seeing as the museum didn’t open until 10, it was a lazy morning of getting ready before riding into the square. As I turned into the square there was a market being held, so after a breakfast of Bratwurst, a quick walk about to find some fresh bacon, sausage and bread rolls for breakfast the next day, I started my trip properly.
In Flanders Museum.
This is a good museum explaining how Ypres and the surrounding area was used, fought over and indecently destroyed.
I took lunch locally while programming sat nav with the waypoints for the places I wanted to visit. First on the list, Tyne Cot Cemetery.
Tyne Cot Cemetery.
Do not do what I did. Follow the sat nav to the letter, as it brought me to the very front of the cemetery where I could not find any parking; so I parked up next to the main entrance. It wasn’t until I started to walk around getting funny looks from people that I realized there is a huge parking lot at the back even with a visitor centre.
Yzer Tower.
Interesting history behind why and how this tower exists, nicely explained as you get a lift to the top then walk the 24 floors down, each floor reveling different parts of the battle.
Trench of Death.
An exposed area of trench, which runs parallel to the riverbank with a very very small museum, thankfully this is free. I found this site very sterile as much as it had been preserved, it was all in concrete, because of this it had taken away all emotion and insight as to what life was like. Either that or I don’t have any imagination.
Passendale Memorial Museum
This museum is really done in two parts, first is the upstairs, which is a typical museum, explaining the battles around Passchendaele, then down in the basement they have re-created a typical dug-out system.
Time was getting on now so I never made it into the town of Passchendaele to visit the church or cemetery.
I got back to Ypres just as it was getting dark. Parking the bike up, then getting the ever so quite whisper light stove going for a brew, before heading back into town for the last post. This time I decide to listen to the buglers from a corner bar whilst enjoys a few beers. To nights last post was different in that they made it more of an occasion, with bagpipes and a small parade. I sat around having a few quite ones whilst listening to the locals but not understanding them.
After a very good night sleep with ear plugs, the morning was a little more chilly than yesterday but the thought of breakfast soon got me up and moving. After an excellent breakfast, then making the leftovers into a sandwich for lunch. I packed everything up ready for a dogleg route visiting more sites on my way to Orchard farm where I had booked a single room in a b&b, as well as a motorbike battlefield tour from Martin the resident expert.
Hooge Crater
Not what I thought (no crater in sight), not even a large museum but the first museum that I felt showed the true horror of battle and worth a visit.
I Missed out hill 62 on advice that this is a waste of time and aimed for hill 60 which unfortunately was closed. These site where all 10 minuets from Ypres. It was now a 1 hour ride to Vimy.
Canadian Memorial at Vimy,
An amazing place. The Canadians have really done a good job of preserving this site. The memorial really stands out and with some of the battlefields untouched it really starts to bring home the conditions which where suffered.
Just a little further along the road is the trenches complete with underground bunker system with a free-guided tour. Well worth the effort.
Whilst on this trip I was asked to try and find a friends long lost relative, who is recorded at being buried in the Faubourg-d'Amiens Cemetery in Arras. I never did find him but after searching each grave stone for names and dates you get a good sense of when certain battles where and how devastating they where. What I found out later is that every commonwealth war graves commission site has a register, listing every person/name on the site alphabetically with a plot location.
Orchard Farm (www.martinpegler.com)
Pulling into Orchard farm I was able to park the bike in a purpose built lea- to with a hard standing and D-rings to lock your bike to. After a quick meet and greet I headed of to Albert to visit the underground tunnels that acted as a bomb shelter for the local towns people. It has now been turned into a museum.
I stopped for dinner in the corner pub and you can guess where it was located. Once back at the farm I was able relax and have a good chat with Martin, his wife Kate and there 2 long term friends who where over visiting.
Breakfast was at 8.30am, it was hearty enough to get me through the day. A quick brief from Martin and we set of on are bikes. The day was taken up by some very good riding from Martin, visiting plenty of battle site’s some of which are not on the tourist route. Every time we stopped Martin gave a full account of both the Allied and German forces where the battle lines started/stopped and could answer any question I asked. Lunch was a superb bacon and egg roll, very British but great. Martin’s knowledge is extraordinary and made my trip complete by giving me a better understanding. The day finished about 5.30pm with tea and biscuits back at the farm after saying my thank you’s I bid farewell and made my way back to the tunnel along the toll road.
Pictures of some of the site.
It was 11pm by the time I got home.
I had a great time away; I was very fortunate with the weather being warm and sunny during the day, pleasant and mild during the night. It is only now I am home that I can take in all that I had seen, stories I read and had heard about. It will have to be another visit in the future to do more of the same.
Just a short, long weekend away, close to home.
Having a few days spare I had wanted to visit some of the WW1 sites. After a bit of research and advice from fellow Tossers, this is what I found.
I planned to leave home at 7.30 on the morning of Friday the 28th of August; I actually got away at 7.45 that for me is just exceptionally well timed.
I had a 3-hour ride down to the tunnel from Norwich, all by dual carriageways or motorways. Leaving home the temperature was a cool 8c, heated grips on everything tucked in I hoped it would soon warm up as the morning got brighter, as it was it got colder until I reached the M25 where the temperature started to rise and peaked at 13c but then it started to rain, you just couldn’t win, I was still smiling all be it through gritted teeth, as this was what biking is about for me enjoying the moment.
Turning up at the Tunnel, was a quick check in, straight onto the first train then of once in France. The sat nav was programmed to get me to the Jeugdstadion campsite in Ypres (Belgium). 1 hour later I was in Ypres. Seeing as I left the uk without any cash I took a ride around Ypres, first to help me orientate myself, then to find a bank, With all that done sat nav was telling me the campsite was less than half a mile away. Following the town wall I knew that the campsite couldn’t be to far away as I had seen pictures whilst doing the research. As it was the sat nav took me to the side of the site that was protected by trees, the entrance was one street away. Checking in was all done by machine, press for English press for tent, persons, nights, car, caravan and so on. I had a choice of pitches well the whole field, seeing as I was the only one camping.
They’re where a few campervans but they are on a different part of the site. Everything set up; it was time for a quick cupper then head of into town for a walk around and check out In Flanders Museum.
As it was by the time I got into town, found where everything was I only had a couple of hours before things started to shut. I decided to start the visiting in the morning. All I had to do on my list for that day was the Last Post. After a bit more walking around I headed back to the campsite to get a quick shower then head back to Menin Gate for 8.
The crowds started to gather about 7.30 in and around the memorial, which is Menin Gate, by 7.50 the main road through the gate is closed to traffic, to let everyone gather all the way around. The Friday night I was there they had 3 buglers.
As they marched on at 8, the whole place went silent, the buglers played the last post which sounded amazing and very moving in the confines of the gate. There was a bit more of remembrance and by 8.10 everything was over and people went their own way. I headed of to find a restaurant in the town square.
I had a lovely meal with a couple of beers then back to the tent ready for the morning. Not the best nights sleep there was a constant hum of noise, not loud, just in the background and when ever the wind changed direction I could hear a disco going on somewhere. Earplugs would have solved all this. Seeing as the museum didn’t open until 10, it was a lazy morning of getting ready before riding into the square. As I turned into the square there was a market being held, so after a breakfast of Bratwurst, a quick walk about to find some fresh bacon, sausage and bread rolls for breakfast the next day, I started my trip properly.
In Flanders Museum.
This is a good museum explaining how Ypres and the surrounding area was used, fought over and indecently destroyed.
I took lunch locally while programming sat nav with the waypoints for the places I wanted to visit. First on the list, Tyne Cot Cemetery.
Tyne Cot Cemetery.
Do not do what I did. Follow the sat nav to the letter, as it brought me to the very front of the cemetery where I could not find any parking; so I parked up next to the main entrance. It wasn’t until I started to walk around getting funny looks from people that I realized there is a huge parking lot at the back even with a visitor centre.
Yzer Tower.
Interesting history behind why and how this tower exists, nicely explained as you get a lift to the top then walk the 24 floors down, each floor reveling different parts of the battle.
Trench of Death.
An exposed area of trench, which runs parallel to the riverbank with a very very small museum, thankfully this is free. I found this site very sterile as much as it had been preserved, it was all in concrete, because of this it had taken away all emotion and insight as to what life was like. Either that or I don’t have any imagination.
Passendale Memorial Museum
This museum is really done in two parts, first is the upstairs, which is a typical museum, explaining the battles around Passchendaele, then down in the basement they have re-created a typical dug-out system.
Time was getting on now so I never made it into the town of Passchendaele to visit the church or cemetery.
I got back to Ypres just as it was getting dark. Parking the bike up, then getting the ever so quite whisper light stove going for a brew, before heading back into town for the last post. This time I decide to listen to the buglers from a corner bar whilst enjoys a few beers. To nights last post was different in that they made it more of an occasion, with bagpipes and a small parade. I sat around having a few quite ones whilst listening to the locals but not understanding them.
After a very good night sleep with ear plugs, the morning was a little more chilly than yesterday but the thought of breakfast soon got me up and moving. After an excellent breakfast, then making the leftovers into a sandwich for lunch. I packed everything up ready for a dogleg route visiting more sites on my way to Orchard farm where I had booked a single room in a b&b, as well as a motorbike battlefield tour from Martin the resident expert.
Hooge Crater
Not what I thought (no crater in sight), not even a large museum but the first museum that I felt showed the true horror of battle and worth a visit.
I Missed out hill 62 on advice that this is a waste of time and aimed for hill 60 which unfortunately was closed. These site where all 10 minuets from Ypres. It was now a 1 hour ride to Vimy.
Canadian Memorial at Vimy,
An amazing place. The Canadians have really done a good job of preserving this site. The memorial really stands out and with some of the battlefields untouched it really starts to bring home the conditions which where suffered.
Just a little further along the road is the trenches complete with underground bunker system with a free-guided tour. Well worth the effort.
Whilst on this trip I was asked to try and find a friends long lost relative, who is recorded at being buried in the Faubourg-d'Amiens Cemetery in Arras. I never did find him but after searching each grave stone for names and dates you get a good sense of when certain battles where and how devastating they where. What I found out later is that every commonwealth war graves commission site has a register, listing every person/name on the site alphabetically with a plot location.
Orchard Farm (www.martinpegler.com)
Pulling into Orchard farm I was able to park the bike in a purpose built lea- to with a hard standing and D-rings to lock your bike to. After a quick meet and greet I headed of to Albert to visit the underground tunnels that acted as a bomb shelter for the local towns people. It has now been turned into a museum.
I stopped for dinner in the corner pub and you can guess where it was located. Once back at the farm I was able relax and have a good chat with Martin, his wife Kate and there 2 long term friends who where over visiting.
Breakfast was at 8.30am, it was hearty enough to get me through the day. A quick brief from Martin and we set of on are bikes. The day was taken up by some very good riding from Martin, visiting plenty of battle site’s some of which are not on the tourist route. Every time we stopped Martin gave a full account of both the Allied and German forces where the battle lines started/stopped and could answer any question I asked. Lunch was a superb bacon and egg roll, very British but great. Martin’s knowledge is extraordinary and made my trip complete by giving me a better understanding. The day finished about 5.30pm with tea and biscuits back at the farm after saying my thank you’s I bid farewell and made my way back to the tunnel along the toll road.
Pictures of some of the site.
It was 11pm by the time I got home.
I had a great time away; I was very fortunate with the weather being warm and sunny during the day, pleasant and mild during the night. It is only now I am home that I can take in all that I had seen, stories I read and had heard about. It will have to be another visit in the future to do more of the same.
Enjoyed reading the RR.. sorry I missed out.. we will have an adventure again next year..
