Zell am See - and several places in between

Phil Magill

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I’ve finally got around to sorting out my photos & videos of our trip around Europe in June, it’s a long read so make sure you’ve got plenty of beer/tea/coffee and munchies.




Day 1, 8th June, To Cherbourg

Met up with Marty & Jack at 9-30am and we made a leisurely run to Rosslare, where we stopped at the café attached to the Super Value supermarket just before the harbour and had a reasonably priced meal before getting onto the Celtic Link ferries CELTIC HORIZON.


When we made our way to the harbour we didn’t have long to wait before boarding commenced and the crew were very helpful when tying down the bikes, supplying extra strips of carpet to protect the bikes bodywork.


Later on, we decided to drink the cans of beer we had with us and retire to the bar for some more.


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With all the excitement the wee lambs were worn out.


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Day 2, 9th June, Cherbourg to Orleans, France.


We awake around 9am, the sailing was nice & calm, we set about making some breakfast of ham, cheese and bread rolls and coffee ( I’d brought along a mini electric kettle because most European B&B’s & hotels don’t do tea/coffee making facilities ).


The ferry docked in Cherbourg at 12 and it wasn’t until near 1pm that we got off.


The route was to be non motorway and we travelled along some cracking traffic free roads.


A visit some WW2 sites in Normandy as Jack hadn’t been here before.


We finally stopped at the B&B hotel on the outskirts of Orleans. ( €65 for a 4 single bed room plus €5-90 each for breakfast )


After getting cleaned up we went for something to eat at a “Eat all you can see” buffet in a Chinese restaurant.


Later back at the room we sorted out the Scala Rider intercoms to get them to work in conference mode so that we could speak to each other on the move.



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Day 3, 10th June, Orleans to Mulheim, Germany


We leave the hotel around 9am and today it’s mostly a non motorway route, except we hopped onto the A36 motorway for a short distance from Belfort to Mulheim in Germany.


The weather was a bit mixed, hot with some heavy rain showers.


We found the Hotel Garni Schacherer easily and booked into a 3 bedded room for €30 each including breakfast.

The hotel is a lovely family owned hotel with an honesty bar in the hallway (just write down what drinks you have taken) situated a short stroll from the Mulheim town centre, with off street parking.


Taking off the waterproofs AGAIN


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Day 4, 11th June, Mulheim to Kappl Austria


Breakfast is a large varied eat all you can see buffet breakfast, so we filled ourselves up and also made a sandwich for later in the day.


We make our way through the Black Forrest via Titisee towards Ravensburg then onto the A96 motorway into Austria and to the Hotel Sport Garni Kapplerhof


Again today the weather was a bit damp, with the waterproofs being on and off several times.


It’s getting a bit hot, time to take the waterproofs off AGAIN

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The hotel owner Tomas welcomed us into his hotel with a shot of schnapps each and showed us into the secure underground carpark.


The room was large with 3 single beds, a separate small kitchen with a cooker and fridge. We seemed to be the only people staying in the hotel tonight.


I asked where we could get something to eat but he said that most places were shut because it was in between seasons but there was a hotel a few miles away that may be open, in the end we made ourselves something to eat as Jack hopped onto the bike and found a small shop open in a village a few miles away.


The essentials in life beer & Pringles

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A few photos of around the hotel

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Day 5, 12th June, Kappl to Zell am See, Austria


Again breakfast is an “eat all you can see” buffet and we were regularly asked by the owner Tomas if we wanted more.


We pack up the bikes and make our way along the 180 to Nauders then over the border to Italy on the SS40 then make our way up the Stelvio Pass.


Here’s a short video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DMli31upAFQ


And here’s a photo of the road taken by someone else.

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At the top of the pass it was pretty crowded with lots of bikers and cyclists, I have total admiration for the cyclists fitness and stamina both young and old, on the motorbike it mostly first and second gear to get to the top.


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We had a coffee then made our way back to the SS38 towards Merano then the SS44 towards the Brenner Pass taking in the Jaufen Pass.


Stopped at this café for a coffee.

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The wheel bearing was fecked.

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The Jaufen Pass

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We got onto the motorway at the Brenner Pass and made our way to Zell am See where we had an apartment booked for 6 nights.


The ground floor apartment.

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And the view down to the lake.

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And we were joined by Mark for a few days.

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We get unpacked and head into town for some food and a few beers.


On the way we see a bike belonging to one of the neighbours.

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And then we settle in Crazy Daisy’s bar for a fun filled night.

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And if the evening gets a bit chilly they even supply a blanket to keep you warm

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And after having a few pints and something to eat we happen to find this place.

Serves a nice pint of Guinness too.

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Day 6, 13th June, The Grossglockner Pass


This morning up early to get a clear run over the Grossglockner Pass (you have go early before all the coaches, camper & cars get onto the road), I’m on my own as the others are a bit tired from the previous nights fun.


Reached the toll booth at 7am and already there is 2 coaches there.


I bought a 30 day ticket for €40 as I intend to use this road a number of times crossing into Italy & Slovenia, a one day ticket is €23.


It’s a lovely bright sunny morning, a little bit cool but nice.


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Still a bit of snow about.

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And at the glacier.

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I got back to the apartment at around 3pm to find the others still in bed, a heavy night!


Later we make our way into town to find somewhere to have a meal and found THE KUPFERKESSEL , a very nice restaurant serving a variety of meals, pasta, pizza, local dishes all at a reasonable price, so we ate here for the rest of our stay, they also have an open wi fi connection.




Day 7, 14th June, The Grossglockner Pass again.


Today I and the others went for a run over the Grossglockner, the weather wasn’t the best with low cloud covering the hills and as you got higher heavy rain showers.


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Here’s a short video compilation of various runs over the Grossglockner.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1szXGxvTcA




Day 8, 15th June, Zell am See to Slovenia


An early start today, the others didn’t want to come with me, a lovely sunny day, the plan was to go over the Grossglockner then follow the 110 over the Plockton Pass into Italy, then the SP111 to Tolmezzo then the SS52 & SS13 to Raccolana then onto the SS76, a cracking little road which seemed to be a local bike race track, as I stopped behind a group of around 30 bikes thinking there must have been a accident but one of the riders, who could speak English, told me to go ahead, but when I got to the front of the group there was someone marshalling the riders into groups of 4 and setting them off.


At the end of the SP76 I turned right onto the SS54 taking you to the Slovenia border, where there is the old border post but no one is there to stop you, then follow the 203 for a bit then turn off onto the 902 the Mangart Road, a narrow twisting road up towards the Mangart mountain and outstanding scenery.


Unfortunately today I didn’t get to the top because the last bit of the road was still impassable because of the snow.


It’s going to be a lovely day, the view from outside the apartment.

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The hills between Austria and Italy.

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Here’s a short video of the Plockton Pass.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2wdN4cBqjJg



Then it was into Slovenia.

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As I said the scenery is outstanding.

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The end of the road, couldn’t get any further than this, the last bit of road was still covered in snow.

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Here’s a short video of the Mangart Road.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F1Lzk6nSjXM



Day 9, 16th June, Zell am See to Berchtesgaden


Today we are heading to Berchtesgaden with the intention of visiting the KEHLSTEINHAUS but we decide to give it a miss because of the large number of people and the fact that you couldn’t see anything because of the low cloud, so we decided to have a wee jaunt around some of the roads instead, and some cracking roads there was too, especially the 305 from Berchtesgaden to Unterwossen.



Day 10, 17th June, Zell am See to Arraba, Italy


The plan today was to go to Italy via Leinz, Cortina d’Ampezzo and Arraba.


The weather was mostly fine with the occasional rain shower later in the afternoon.


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Came into this picturesque little village.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njJ_km8Gw5E




Day 11, 18th June, Zell am See to Schignano, near Lake Como


Time to leave the apartment and start making our way towards the ferry at Roscoff.

We decide on taking the motorway route to Bolzano in Italy, it’s another fine day which is quite hot.

After we go through the toll booth at Bolzano we make our onto the SS42 to Edolo then the SS39 & SS38 to the western shoreline of Lake Como, don’t expect to get anywhere fast on this road along the lake, 30mph speed limit on most of the road, with very slow moving traffic.

We decided to spend the night at the Agriturismo Al Marnich which is in the hills above Lake Como, it’s accommodation in converted farm buildings on a working farm to help supplement the farmers income.


The room we got had a double & a single bed for €30 each including breakfast.


I have to say this is a lovely charming and peaceful location high in the hills, the restaurant served reasonably priced traditional home cooked meals and the breakfast was home made bread & cheeses.


What was really nice to see late at night when we were standing at the edge of the vineyard looking down into the valley, were the fireflies flying around the vines.



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Day 12, 19th June, Schignano to Annecy, France.


Again today to make up a bit of distance we decided to use the motorway to Aosta, Italy, where we turned off onto minor roads, this is where we found out that UK issued credit/debit cards don’t work in the pay at pump systems when the petrol stations are closed for the very long lunch break.


However we did find a petrol station whose automatic pumps took banknotes, so I put a €20 note into the machine but the bike only took €17 of petrol (no change given) so we moved another bike to the pump but the pump switched off (I wonder did someone switch it off)


Anyway, refuelled we decided to have a short break.


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Moving on we decided to go over the St. Bernard Pass, the SS26 to France through Bourg – Saint – Maurice then the N90 to Albertville and on to Annecy, giving the Mont Blanc tunnel a miss (why would you want to pay €27 to ride through an 11.6km tunnel, useless the weather was really shite & you wanted to dry off), some lovely little villages on route and stunning views.


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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cosx0Fe_8sU


We booked into the Ibis hotel in the centre of Annecy, €30 each plus €9 each for breakfast..



Annecy is a real tourist magnet, with plenty of lovely old buildings.


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The lake is very nice also.

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Day 13, 20th June, Annecy to Chateauroux


We leave Annecy making our way to Chateauroux using mostly minor roads, no more mountainous vistas, just rolling farmland and we happened to find some cracking roads with very little traffic.


We stopped at the Chambres d'hôtes Les Volets Bleus a lovely little B&B whose owner Michele was very nice and helpful and who is also a fellow biker.



Day 14, 21st June, Chateauroux to Vitre


We left Chateauroux in bright sunshine, again following mostly minor roads, then we made the big mistake of going through the centre of Tours, major road works in the centre of town had roads closed and tailbacks of traffic, it took us over an hour just to get through the city.


We eventually got to Vitre near Rennes, I had booked a 3 person room for €65 plus €9 each for breakfast at the Citôtel Le Petit Billot as we pulled up outside the hotel, the owner Madame Collete greeted us and seeing we were 3 virile young men gave us an extra room (at no extra charge) so that we wouldn’t have to share a double bed, unbelievable !


On booking in Madame Collete explained where everything was in the town, gave us maps, informed us that there was a music festival in the town and opened the cellar gate so that we could park the bikes (no charge to park bikes).


The rooms were very spacious and the beds were comfy.


The following photos I took at 7am the next morning, and I was really surprised at how litter free the streets were after the music festival considering that hundreds of people had been in the town centre the night before.


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A very picturesque train station. I love how the French trim their bushes.


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Day 15, 22nd June, Vitre to Roscoff


No hurry to go anywhere today as our ferry from Roscoff didn’t sail until 6pm.


Had an excellent breakfast at 9am with Madame Collete being very attentive to all her guests, refilling jugs of orange juice on the tables and refilling coffee pots and asking if you wanted some more food.


As we were preparing to leave the hotel, if started to rain and it turned into another day when the waterproofs were on and off several times.
We travelled along some nice twisty traffic free roads towards Roscoff.


We stopped at St Pol de Leon, a few miles from the harbour to get some beer & munchies for this evening on the ferry.


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Then we continued on into the centre of Roscoff to find somewhere to have a meal before getting onto the ferry. We tried several cafés but were told that they didn’t serve food between 3pm & 7pm just drinks, (how strange), anyhow with a bit more searching around we found a small café close by that served food all day, which was very busy, the staff being run off their feet.


We made our way to the port an eventually got onto the ship, the deckhands on the Irish Ferry had no regard for peoples motorbikes, trying to cram as many as possible into a small space and giving no assistance to riders needing help to tie down their bikes, and also not telling riders of the possibility of a rough crossing so that they could make the bikes a little bit more secure.


When we got to our cabin, the ships captain announced that the ship was secure for sea and that there would be a 6m to 10m swell and strong winds, oh feck, it’s going to be bouncy !



Day 16, 23rd June, Rosslare


After being rolled back and forward all night with the movement of the ship I was looking forward to when the ship docked at 11am in Rosslare, but the strong winds had continued and the ships captain announced that the ship couldn’t enter Rosslare harbour because of the wind and that the ship would have to sit offshore until the wind died down a bit.


After 3 more attempts to get into the harbour the ship eventually docked at 5-30pm, so it was a very quick run on our way home.


A very enjoyable trip with a lot of new roads explored.



Total miles covered by me was 4213.
 
Great report and lots of really good pictures. Just one tiny point, you used the Plöcken pass into Italy not the Plockton. You will find that Plockton is in Scotland, and very nice it is too.

John
 
:clap
Great report, the pics and videos are really good. Stunning scenery. Must try it one year. Thanks for taking the time to post your report. Ride safe. Cheers!:beerjug:
 
Nice ride report and some cracking pics, looks like a good time was had by all.
 
Great report and lots of really good pictures. Just one tiny point, you used the Plöcken pass into Italy not the Plockton. You will find that Plockton is in Scotland, and very nice it is too.

John



Aha, you spotted my deliberate mistake :blast


Go to the top of the class :D
 
Sitting in Zell now by the lake reading this , been here 9 days and temps have never dropped below 30degrees, too bloody hot to use the bike every day, although have been on a few good runs
 
Enjoyed the pics and write up. Thanks for taking the time. I am off to slovenia and Austria in a couple of weeks and now can't wait!
 


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