Twotter's Trip to Arnhem

For our annual bike trip my brother and I decided to visit some of the sites associated with World War 2’s Operation Market-Garden, the combined airborne and ground assault that would see the American 82nd and 101st, and British 1st Airborne Divisions assault a series of bridges from Eindhoven up to Arnhem in Holland. Simultaneously the British XXX Corps would advance north, linking up with each of the airborne divisions. The strategic plan was to give the British 2nd Army a bridgehead to invade Germany and thus end the war.


Day 1

Staying at Steve's house the night before meant we had a nice run down to Folkestone for an early afternoon crossing at the Channel Tunnel. After a quick coffee we rode on to the train and crossed to France.

The first leg of the trip was to see us staying at a Formula 1 motel on the outskirts of Brussels. On the way we took a small detour so we could make a brief visit to the battlefield of Waterloo. It was late in the day but the visitor centre was still open and we climbed the 226 steps to the top of the Buttes de Lion to view the place where Napoleon was defeated by the allied army under the Duke of Wellington on 18 June 1815.

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(Picture courtesy Neil Asher Silberman, www.archaeology.org)

It is an interesting place to visit, as there is a display panel on top of the mound showing where the two armies lined up. We could see the famous fortified farms of Hougoumont & La Haye Saint and the line of advance of the French Imperial Guard, whose column was defeated by the accurate and speedy musketry from the British infantry battalions. Top stuff!

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The display panel showing the French and Allied armies.

Feeling in need of refreshment we left the Lion to his eternal vigil and headed for Brussels. We checked in to the Formula 1 and after a refreshing (as in cold) shower we headed to a nearby restaurant for beer and food.

Day 2

Leaving Brussels behind us we headed off to try and follow the route of XXX Corps, the ground or 'Garden' element of Operation Market-Garden. Today would see us leave the start line at 'Joe's Bridge', named after Colonel J.O.E. Vandeleur of the Irish Guards who initially led XXX Corps (played by Michael Caine in the film 'A Bridge Too Far') in the drive to Arnhem.

Our first stop however was at the German War Cemetery at Lommel. This is the biggest war cemetery outside of Germany with 39,000 men buried here. I've been to a number of War Cemeteries, including Tyne Cot near Ypres with 12,500 burials, but Lommel was something else. It covers something like 40 acres and seeing the sheer numbers of crosses was quite stunning…

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Lommel German War Cemetery

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An Unknown German Soldier

Leaving Lommel we rode to the start of XXX Corps route and passed over Joe's Bridge. We were heading for the US 101st 'Screaming Eagles' Airborne Division area.

Electing to ride around Eindhoven's ring road rather than try to ride through the city centre we filtered through heavy traffic but we soon left the traffic behind and crossed the Son Bridge. In the film 'A Bridge Too Far' this was the bridge that was blown just as Elliott Gould and the men of the 506th Parachute Infantry Regiment approached. Further down the road we crossed the modernised Veghel Bridge which was captured by the 501st Parachute Infantry Regiment within one hour of their landing.

We moved out of the area held by the US 101st Airborne Division and into the area held by the US 82nd Airborne Division.

Near Grave we turned off to visit the memorial to the 504th Parachute Infantry Regiment.

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The bridge is now named the John F Simpson Bridge after the US Lieutenant who captured the bridge intact with just 15 men!

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After crossing the bridge we turned off the main road and headed towards Heumen.

Along the way is this trio of stylised parachutes that commemorate the landing zones of the US 504th Parachute Infantry Regiment, US 325th Glider Infantry Regiment & a battalion of the 1st Polish Independent Parachute Brigade.

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The road led up into the low hills to the south east of Nijmegen and we enjoyed a twisty little road that took us to our next stop at Klein Amerika. This was Drop Zone 'Z' for the 505th Parachute Infantry Regiment and a memorial commemorates them and the Canadian 1st Army who later held the line here. It is a brick built wall with two stone tablets.

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The left hand tablet has the following inscribed*

"With Europe in peril, Paras landed here in their thousands. General James Gavin and the All American Division 17 & 18 Sep 1944 Operation Market Garden. Pilgrim, are you, like the liberators, ready top lay down your life when your fellows need you."

The right hand tablet includes the following*

"Here in the winter of 1944/45 tens of thousands of soldiers of Crerar's First Canadian Army held the front line between the Maas and the Waal. Pilgrim, cherish all you hold dear."

As time was getting on we headed to the Dutch Liberation Museum. This was very interesting as it had exhibits for the whole of the war and showed us just how different life was for Dutch civilians compared to what we know of life for the people in the UK. There were some interesting exhibits from Market Garden including the skeletal remains of a US Waco glider cockpit. Unfortunately the museum closed whilst we were still looking at the exhibits and we were politely asked to leave.

We were now heading in towards Nijmegen but our last stop of the day was to the Canadian Commonwealth War Graves Commission Cemetery at Groesbeek.

Here you can see the Stone of Remembrance with the Cross of Sacrifice in the background.

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Here lies an unknown Canadian soldier...

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...and an unknown Canadian airman.

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As the skies started to darken we rode to our hotel for the night, the Hotel Sionshof. We spent a quiet evening in this former HQ of the Germans and of the US 82nd Airborne Division under General James Gavin. Apparently some British pop band were in town for a concert...the Stolling Rones or something like that!

Day 3

After a spectacular rainstorm last night the day started damp so after a pleasant breakfast we headed off, destination Arnhem.

Our first stop was the Jonkerbos Commonwealth War Graves Commission Cemetery on the outskirts of Nijmegen.

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Going back a few months it turned out that one of my work colleagues had a relative killed in the area towards the end of the war. A search of the CWGC website showed that he was buried at Jonkerbos and so I wanted to go and pay my respects.

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Private A.S.Twigg. 1st Battalion, The East Lancashire Regiment. Died 13 Feb 1945. Age 18.

This is the first occasion that I’ve visited a War Cemetery to visit someone in this way and even though we’re not related I was wiping away the tears. RIP Soldier.

Riding into town we made our way to Nijmegen Bridge. This was captured on 20th September 1944 after heavy fighting by the 505th Parachute Infantry Regiment and elements of the British Grenadier Guards, part of the Guards Armoured Division of XXX Corps.

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Once across the River Waal we turned off the main road and followed the dyke to this memorial to the 504th Parachute Infantry Regiment, who under the command of Major Julian Cook crossed the river under fire to secure the northern end of the bridge. This was the part played by Robert Redford in the film 'A Bridge Too Far'. Major General Horrocks of XXX Corps watched the action and described it as 'the best attack that I ever saw carried out in the whole war'.

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The tablet records the names of 48 men who died during the attack. Most are from the 504th Parachute Infantry Regiment but also includes men of the 307th Airborne Engineers and 376th Field Artillery Battalion.


Next stop Arnhem.

Riding into Arnhem over the John Frost Bridge we had decided to start by visiting Ginkel Heath, DZ-Y. Leaving Arnhem town centre behind, we rode and rode out into the countryside and into a large wooded area. This road was 'Leopard Route' and was to be one of three routes into Arnhem for the British Airborne forces. I knew the drop zones were some miles from the bridge but didn’t really appreciate just how far the soldiers had to go to reach their objective.

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Ginkel Heath has this memorial. On the top is a stylised Dove of Peace...

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Around the base are badges of the Parachute Regiment...

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Kings Own Scottish Borderers (who defended the Heath)...

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...and Bellerophon, the badge of the Airborne

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This was the landing zone for Brigadier Hackett's 4th Airlanding Brigade who arrived on the second day of the lift on 18 September 1944.

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Our next stop was literally alongside some fields. These fields were Landing Zone-S for 1st Airlanding Brigade, where Flight Lieutenant David Lord of 271 Sqn RAF, won a posthumous Victoria Cross. More of which later.

We rode past the famous Kussin crossroads where the German Town Commandant, General Kussin was killed when his car ran into elements of 3rd Battalion, The Parachute Regiment, near Wolfheze.

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As the rain started we arrived at the Airborne Museum at the Hartenstein Hotel, the former Headquarters for Major General Roy Urquhart commanding 1st British Airborne Division. This is an excellent museum and if you only visit one place to learn about Operation Market-Garden then this is it.

In the grounds is this memorial to the local people

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The inscription reads…

“50 years ago British and Polish Airborne soldiers fought here against overwhelming odds to open the way into Germany and bring the war to an early end. Instead we brought death and destruction for which you have never blamed us. This stone marks our admiration for your great courage, remembering especially the women who tended our wounded. In the long winter that followed your families risked death by hiding Allied soldiers and airmen while members of the Resistance helped many to safety.
You took us then into your homes as fugitives and friends. We took you forever into our hearts. This strong bond will continue long after we are all gone.
1944 September 1994”


Our final visit of the day was to Arnhem-Oosterbeek Commonwealth War Graves Commission Cemetery.

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As with all of the Commonwealth War Grave Commissions Cemeteries that I’ve visited this one was a peaceful resting place and immaculately kept. It contains nearly 1700 graves.

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The Battle of Arnhem saw five men win the Victoria Cross, our highest award for gallantry in the face of the enemy. Here is a little more about those incredibly brave men.

Lt John Grayburn, 2nd Battalion, The Parachute Regiment

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“From the evening of September 17th until the night of September 20th1944, a period of over three days, Lieutenant Grayburn led his men with supreme gallantry and determination. Although in pain and weakened by his wounds, short of food and without sleep, his courage never flagged. There is no doubt that, had it not been for this officer's inspiring leadership and personal bravery, the Arnhem Bridge could never have been held for this time.”
He is buried at Arnhem-Oosterbeek Commonwealth War Graves Commission Cemetery.


Flight Lieutenant David Lord VC DFC
271 Sqn, Royal Air Force

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On 19 September 1944, the British 1st Airborne Division were in desperate need of supplies. Flight Lieutenant Lord, flying a Dakota transport plane through intense enemy anti-aircraft fire was twice hit and had one engine burning. He managed to drop his supplies, but at the end of the run found that there were two containers remaining. Although he knew that one of his wings might collapse at any moment he nevertheless made a second run to drop the last supplies, then ordered his crew to bail out. A few seconds later the Dakota crashed in flames with its pilot.
He is buried at Arnhem-Oosterbeek Commonwealth War Graves Commission Cemetery.


Captain Lionel Queripel
Royal Sussex Regiment, attached 10th Battalion, The Parachute Regiment

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On 19 September 1944, Captain Queripel displayed the highest standard of gallantry during the whole of a period of nine hours of bitter and confused fighting. Under heavy fire he carried a wounded sergeant to the regimental aid post and was himself wounded in the face. Later, when it became necessary to withdraw he insisted, despite the protests of his men, on remaining behind to cover their withdrawal, armed only with his pistol and a few hand grenades. This was the last occasion on which he was seen alive.
He is buried at Arnhem-Oosterbeek Commonwealth War Graves Commission Cemetery.


Lance Serjeant John Baskeyfield
2nd Battalion, The South Staffordshire Regiment

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On the 20th September 1944 Lance-Serjeant Baskeyfield was the NCO in charge of a 6 pounder anti-tank gun at Oosterbeek. When their battalion was attacked Baskeyfield was badly wounded in the leg, and the rest of the crew were either killed or badly wounded. He refused an offer of transport to the Regimental Aid Post to stay at his gun and encourage morale. After a brief respite, Baskeyfield came under heavy fire again but he refused to cower. After crawling under enemy fire to another six-pounder gun, he was killed by a shell from a supporting enemy tank.
Lance-Serjeant Baskeyfield's body was never found and he is commemorated on the Memorial to the Missing at Groesbeek Commonwealth War Graves Commission Cemetery.


Major Robert Cain
2nd Battalion, The South Staffordshire Regiment

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During the period 19-25th September 1944, Major Cain's company was cut off from the battalion and throughout the whole of this time was closely engaged with enemy tanks, self-propelled guns and infantry. The Major was everywhere danger threatened, moving among his men and encouraging them to hold out. By his leadership he not only stopped but demoralized the enemy attacks and although he was suffering from a perforated ear-drum and multiple wounds, he refused medical attention.
Major Cain survived the war. He died on 2nd May 1974 and is buried in the family grave at Braddan Cemetery in the Isle of Man.

Day 4

Leaving our hotel, the Hotel Dreyeroord, we rode in to Arnhem and parked by the river below the bridge.

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Although rebuilt after the war the bridge is named the ‘John Frost Bridge’ in memory of Lieutenant Colonel John Frost who commanded 2nd Battalion, The Parachute Regiment at the bridge during the battle. In the film ‘A Bridge Too Far’ he was played by Anthony Hopkins.

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Our time in Arnhem was now at an end and we remounted the bikes and set off, heading back to Calais. We still had one more stop though.

We made our way to a small town called Steenbergen to pay our respects to one of the most famous RAF pilots of World War II. Together with his navigator, Squadron Leader J Warwick DFC, lies Wing Commander Guy Gibson VC, DSO and bar, DFC and bar. Their Mosquito crashed near here on the night of 19 September 1944.

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Now it was time to leave and so we headed back to Calais along the motorways of Holland, Belgium and France. Arriving in England in glorious weather we said goodbye and headed to our respective homes. It had been a good trip to places I’ve read about and had wanted to visit for a long time.

Wow.












Thanks for sharing these with us, Twotter.
I've shed a tear, and had a hot flush.


Neil.

An interesting write-up. Thanks for that.

Good write up. Major cain is jeremery clarksons father in law.

Fantastic.

Thanks for sharing that.

john plane said:

Major cain is jeremery clarksons father in law.

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Which was one of the best bits of telly I've seen in a long time.




And with organisation and write ups like that do you fancy leading a few tours to similar places?

Good write up and photos.
That German cemetery is amazing.

write ups and pics like this used to go right over my head.
i used to dismiss as wierd, people that were "into that war thing".

until i went to see the Normandy beaches....some of the huge, beautiful and immaculately kept graveyards... and Oradur Sur Glane (sp?) the village destroyed in WW2 and left as it was by the French.

Now, even looking at this (Really Good, by the way) thread, i get a bit weepy. i go quiet and think. i begin to get an appreciation. i remember seeing a landscape where people just like me and you fought and died for something so much more important than all of the little selfish things we feel so crucial to our self centred, gimme gimme, consumerist, shallow lives.

i imagine what it must have been like to be there, be a part of these events.

i try to anyway.
but i dont think i ever will truly have an idea what it was like for them that were there at the time.
but (imo) we should all try.

it's humbling.
it puts perspective on us.
it reminds us of what is really important.
thats a good thing.

.............................


Jaysus! that was morose of me! - sorry 'bout that.
Thanks though - really good pics and a good thread.
Thank you

Top report

Done some of that. Have you got any waypoints for the places you went to?

Ta

Slowdown said:

And with organisation and write ups like that do you fancy leading a few tours to similar places?

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Fantastic thread, top quality

I agree also with the similar tours, I for one would jump at the chance, thinking of doing it this year with the wife, need the organisational skills now!

Best thread I've read in a very long time.

Great write up

Been to Assen a few times, and always do Arnhem on the way.. The Hartenstein hotel is something else...

The commonwealth cemetary is a moving place

Leading a tour ?

I've never really thought of it really. This trip, and the one I did last year to Ypres & the Somme (see http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77218 ) were just a question of doing a bit of research using Major & Mrs Holt's excellent guide books & then getting online and finding local hotels, which I booked in advance.

Then it's just a question of plotting waypoints on Mapsource (sometimes even in the right place ) and there you go.

So it's easy to do really.

I am hoping to visit Normandy later in the year so never say never

All waypoints attached so you can create your own routes if you like.

Day 1 - Eurotunnel to Brussels

Day 2 - Brussels to Nijmegen

Day 3 - Nijmegen to Arnhem