Help fitting SW Motech Engine bars.

richellis98

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• Aug 25, 2006

• #1

Tried to fit some of the Motech engine bars, having done a search I was expecting it to take 2-3 hrs but 3hrs later I still cannot fit them as I cannot get the large bolts towards the rear undone. Any advice on what to do. I've tried a 50torx (or 55torx) this was the closest thing in my tool kit that might fit, but all that does is bite into the bolt head and I'm scared to do any more damage to it.

Any ideas on how to loosen them? Should mention its a 1150.

Feeling frustrated but they do look good on the bike, very close match to bikes paint

 

Hew

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• Aug 25, 2006

• #2

I haven't got these bars but had a look at a picture on Nippy N site and comparing it to my bike and you need a 8mm Allen/wrench. If it's tight use a bit of pipe for leverage. It may be worth having a look at http://www.ukgser.com/forums/upload/HP Bars.pdf
Not the same bars but the principle is the same.

 

blues n twos

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• Aug 25, 2006

• #3

Hi Rich,

I have emailed you... remember to only do one side at a time.

If you have a trolley jack or bottle jack its worth taking the weight up as when you come to fit the rear bolts back in they can be slightly out of line.
If its 1mm out they prob wont go in and you'll bugger up the thread trying.

More than happy to help you fit them Richie, just let me know and come on over.

Jon

 

richellis98

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• Aug 25, 2006

• #4

You've both been very helpful. The instructions are pretty much spot on when they say the bolt "may" be difficult to remove. I'm in danger of rounding off the bolt head.

Why don't Motech produce something abit more helpful than the A4 sheet that they supply? This link is pretty good.

I think the answer is to go and purchace the 8mm allen key socket and Jon I'll take you up on that offer of help next Thursday.

 

Flipfly

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• Aug 26, 2006

• #5

Rich, I have these bars and you're right that the instructions are rubbish. I fitted mine in about an hour Keep persevering though cause they look great when they are on. I only used allen keys to do mine. The ones that worried me were the main engine bolts on the side of the engine. They took alot of effort to remove. If you use the correct tool they shouldn't round the bolt out.
Make sure you route the cable etc outside of the bars, and beware of the throttle cable on the right hand side of the engine (as you sit on the bike). It is very easy to displace it from it's seating and cause the bike to run badly. Very easy to put back in place but took me half an hour to figure out why the bike wouldn't tick over.

 

richellis98

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• Aug 27, 2006

• #6

I had exactly the problem with the throttle you mention. all dressed up to go out on the bike then start it up and it kept stalling. Had to take the car instead, spent 45mins sitting in traffic, came home found the cable displaced, replaced, the bike ran perfectly...... Sometime I think best to leave the bike maintanance to the professionals.

Bought an 8mm socket that seems to fit, will find out tomorrow!

Also got some bar risers.... see what damage I can do to the bike fitting them.

 

richellis98

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• Aug 28, 2006

• #7

sucess!!!!

Have now sucessfully fitted the crash bars and risers. Its quite simple to fit the bars once you have the right tools (duh!) And I'll take my hat off to who ever fitted the bars with a set of allen keys.

The risers are great also only rode the bike to work so far but does make a difference. I'm going to Mablethorpe next Friday via the North Norfolk coast will let you know what they are like.