Ticker Killer - it DOES work!!

(RIP) Yamaha1

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Just fitted the Ticker Killer from Motorworks - and I can report it does indeed work - OK, I know it only masks the problem, and doesn't cure the cause - but it kills the ticking from the rh TB - just like it says on the box, plus you don't have to wait with an unusable vehicle for the rebushed TB to be returned - especially now the Post Office are having their one day strikes!!

My 1100 has only done 30k from new - I guess with a high miler the worn shaft bushing could cause air leaks - therefore the Scriminger rebuild could well be the best route to follow - but I'm a happy bunny at the moment with my 10 minute fix!:augie

Mike
 
Same repair can be effected by forcing another three sets of ear plugs in before you put your helmet on ......... :thumb2
 
Nice one, my noisy one is on the left side, I can actually see the throttle cable quadrant flapping about :eek: I might see if I can get a washer or something behind it.
Stewart
 
Hmm - I thought it was the case that the lh one doesn't tick because of the TPS attached to the end..........?:nenau

Mike

no mike i for one have a l/h tbody ticking,its off to scrimingers oct £60+vat per tbody.the way i look at it is why pay £30 to bodge when another £30 gets the job done properly.but having said that its other peoples own personal choice and circumstances
 
Quite agree - but I didn't realise it was £60 plus VAT to have it done!!

Of course, I suppose there is little option for you if it's the lh TB ticking - as the Killer is only for the rh body - it replaces the small round cover you can see.

Mike
 
they work well on the 1150 as well.

My RH throttle body was ticking a little, which I guess is the start of some wear in the butterfly shaft. I fitted a ticker killer and it has all but silenced this. It is expensive for what it is (spring loaded threaded 'shaft' that applies pressure and support to the butterfly shaft) but does what it says and I would think that this will slow down any future wear as the shaft is no longer 'bouncing around'.
On the 1150 the original covering cap needs to be drilled (instructions recommend 4-5mm bit) and then levered of with needle pliers. It is also pointed out to drill in the centre and not to deep. I did this with a battery drill as the more controllable speed let me drill a little at a time. Good job to, as there is just a few 'mm' between the cap and shaft. Levering it of required patience and the gentle use of a screwdriver rather than the recommended pliers. I also heated the replacement brass cap with a hot air gun which helped it go on much easier.
All in all a simple job as long as you dont use brute force and acheives the desired result. How long this will delay a rebush I dont know.
 
I fitted one.

The reason the throttle quadrant rattles is due to play in the bushes through which the butterfly valve shaft passes. The "ticker liller" exerts pressure on one end of the shaft, forcing the butterfly valve against the side of the throttle body.
I didn't realise how it worked until I had drilled and removed the cap otherwise I wouldn't have fitted it. If you tighten the "ticker killer" too much it jams the throttle valve, too little and it still rattles.
I intend to send the throttle bodies away this winter and get them rebushed before any further damage is caused.
 
Just a quick thought, is there not a circlip on the end of the shaft under the cover, if so according to the clearances between the circlip and casting, compared to the butterfly valve and throttle body, You will be preloading the circlip or as you mentioned "forcing the butterfly valve against the side of the throttle body. :rolleyes:
 
I see what you mean, but no, the pressure applied is about the same as putting finger pressure on the rear quadrant when you 'test' for play. Certainly not enough to displace a circlip. It doesnt cure the fault, but unless you overtighten I cant see it making it any worse. Looks like people have mixed results, but it worked for me.
 


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