A Beginners guide to the Pyrenees and RB 1

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don't be mislead. this is not necessarily a guide for beginners off-road touring in the pyrenees, really more a guide written by a beginner, that hopefully might interest, and even help, anybody with thoughts of visiting the area.

i saw this story on ukgser. it looked so good i was inspired by to end my 20+ year retirement from off-roading.
it looked perfect, with mountain scenery (i love mountains. i gave up enduros for skiing), and easy looking trails to potter down.

first thing i did was check out the road book used in the thread: RB1 Val D'Aran - Andorre. it looked perfect for exploring the area for someone who's never been there before, and if 4x4s can get down the trails, how hard can it be on a bike? and so i forked over the, not inconsiderable, €60 to buy a copy from the french guy who wrote it. slight snag: it's in french. i don't speak much french (at all), but there's lots of pictures :)


the route:

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sample of the road book itself:

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next: round up some volunteers for company, buying drinks, and pulling bikes out of ditches. originally envisaged as a trip for 4, but when it came down to it, only the hardcore of me and Springer were up to the challenge. me on my 86 R80G/S, and springer on his 660 Tenere.

i say beginners. we've both done a bit of off roading in the past. in my case, a long way in the past when i did a few enduros and general pissing about on dirt bikes. springer has done a bit off and on, up to more recent times.

feeling the need to brush up my skills a bit, i thought an intensive off-road training program was the way to go. this started with a 6 mile ride along some soggy lane near salisbury in the rain. it was pretty unpleasant, and the training ended right there :D


when? we wanted to go in mid may, but it seemed a bit early for crossing mountains. we were both constrained for time, and we eventually settled on 30th may to set off from plymouth on the Brittany ferry Pont-Aven from Plymouth to Santander.

after a pleasant crossing (tip: once boarded, book a table at the posh restaurant asap as the early sitting gets booked quite quickly. tip2: go to the same place for breckie. twelve quid, and you'll not need to eat again that day ;) ).
we arrived in santander at 13:00.

the sun shone and we were on one of the worlds few pleasant motorways on the way to bilbao, then onto some fabulous minor roads in the foothills of the pyranees.

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a quick map check. pasty people hiding from the sun in a bus shelter.
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on to our first campsite, Sunbilla near Santestaban. nice site on top of a hill. very scenic. €15per night for person, tent and bike. seems a typical price for camping in the area. pricey, i thought, but beer and coffee in the site bar is cheap :)

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tip: don't camp just there. that's where the dogs tend to get excercised. plenty of cleaner pitches on the next terrace.

day two. onto the start of the roadbook in Fos. more great roads. a real cracker of a day :)

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arriving late, we rocked up at the towns municipal campsite. calling it a shithole would be an act of charity, so we moved on to another, nice looking site, up the road in Les.

it was closed.

getting late so we stopped in the Hotel Europa in Les. claims to be a 1 star hotel, but i felt it deserved better. bed, breakfast, evening meal, beer, wine, separate rooms: €50 each. nice.

tomorrow we start on the trails...
 
BTW did i mention the route down was rather nice? :)

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well. it was :)
 
That road book looks fab :thumb2

You soooooooooo nearly got a call when you posted up about this trip, sadly I was already commited to the Skye/Calum's Rd reunion thang but, if you do it again count me in :)

Any way, get on with it............................ :D

Andres
 
By the way, whats with the paperlcips ?

i usually ride with the visor up. the mechanism in the Tour-X is not much cop at keeping it there, so i clip it to the peak with a paperclip. the other one's a spare.

andres,

pity you couldn't make it :(


i'm working on the next bit :)
 
nice view from my hotel window to start the day.

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i had laboriously mapped the road book grid references into mapsource, so had that on my GPSmap 60Csx as well as on a paper roll in a pocket on my tankbag.

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red dots are points at which the trip should be reset for new sections.

using the gps and roadbook it was pretty easy to navigate the route, and we were soon headed up the side of a mountain into some very scenic areas.

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as you can see the bikes were fully loaded, the intention being to camp at convenient points along the route. i was rather concerned about riding off road while carrying so much weight, but the G/S performed much better than i expected loaded, and i soon forgot about it. the Tenere also shrugged the weight off admirably.

so we followed the route up the mountain, then down again into a rather nice little town, and had a coffee.

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i think this was the first time we realised how cheap it was in spain. most places could barely break one euro for a cup of proper coffee (never had a bad cup either). san miguel bottles were usually €1.50, but they were only 200ml, still…

onward.

more tracks winding up the side of mountains.

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happy chappies

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a little further on, we came to a massive tree fallen across the track. someone had kindly chainsawed a bit of it off so we could get the bikes over the remainder of the roots. really should have checked the other side for a very awkwardly placed rock that could easily have had me off.

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it was a good idea to avoid falling just there, as the drop was almost sheer. in this case, a fall would have been broken by the conveniently placed trees, but in many other places you wouldn't stop till you hit the deck a long way below.

this pic is looking over the side. as ever, it's really hard to convey what it's really like. nasty.

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the rider would likely be ok, but you'd be dismantling the bike in a tree to get it back up.

a measley 1750 metres. it gets quite a bit higher later

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although most of the route is pretty easy, there were plenty of places you'd want to avoid getting hurt. some tracks were made of big jutting boulders that would break something if hit wrongly. we were very aware that…

1) there's very little mobile coverage up there.

2) we don't speak any spanish beyond "dos cerveza por favour".

3) it was going to take a very long time for medical help to get to us, if needed.

we cheered ourselves up by about the 4x4 we passed approaching the blocked path, and the several Km he was going to have to reverse down the narrow, sheer sided track to go back again. how we laughed :green gri

later, the track opens out, into a spectacular mountain valley.

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later in the day, we started looking for camp sites. there were plenty, but they were all fecking shut!
we spoke to a german triumph rider and his dutch girlfriend in the same predicament outside one of the closed sites. they hadn't found anywhere either. we told them of our nice hotel in Les, and they left.

we had consulted the tourist office in the local town of Vielha. they had directed us to a site on the road towards france, which they assured us was open. we found it with the german sat out side. he drew his finger across his throat. it was closed too :(

back to the tourist office, who assured me it WAS open. they even got the site on the phone and i spoke to reception there. she asked if i was with the bikes that pulled up outside earlier, and then sped off? :blast

so off again to the campsite at Pont D'Arros. it was open, and was pretty good too. even had wi-fi that worked. wwww.campingverneda.com

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there's even a little refuge for when it "rains really hard". we had noticed how green the place was.

we moved in and set about making the place look untidy.

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Excellent!

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You've gotta love Spanish concrete furniture - they seem to have embraced it as the universal 'make anything' construction material :D
 
due to the lack of open campsites, we decided to same at the same place another night. in fact we stayed there for several nights until we headed home.

most of the sites do not open until july 1st. seems a bit odd, but i imagine it is because it is a ski region, where after a clear up at the end of the season, everyone vanishes for a month or two :nenau


the next days outing took us to some lovely valleys & high meadows. now travelling without a ton of luggage for the first time, ii was easier going, but perhaps not as big an improvement as i was expecting. GSs have always been good at travelling loaded, and the tenere seems good at everything.

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at one point, while navigating a slightly tricky boulder strewn path, we had the additional obstacle of a large group of ramblers to get through. no open hostility from them, but i don't think they liked the bikes being there much.

RB1 goes mostly/entirely? through spanish national park land.
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what a great idea allowing motor vehicles access. maybe we should try snowdonia next year? :D

we link the trails with some great little back roads. always deserted, and stunning scenery. sunny and 24C.

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i'm not at all sure biking gets much better :)
 
Well done I'm glad you had a good time I know Lilith and I did!:D
Our retreat was only due to the summer storms heading our way viewing the devistation and deaths roads washed out cars swept down mountains in flash floods on spanish TV tournado hit Alicantie the night before:eek: (not reported in the uk). It is worth keeping an eye on the Spanish tv in bars etc Mountains are a very dangerous place in a storm.
More pics please:thumb
 
Don't let him fool you into believing this trip was all stunning scenery, fantastic weather, superb roads whilst that was all true there is a very much darker side to the story ask him about the cuisine and he may well tell a tale of car smash chicken served by surly men with blackened finger nails, endless visits to petrol filling stations to obtain yet more long life, e number laced consumables, the everyday site of my ginger friend gnawing at chorizo sausage so greasy I could have lubricated the chain on the tenere with it, his constant hunger for the food of the forecourt knows no bounds he even found a shrine to the art of eating on the move known to many as The Petrocat in viela a shrine we where to worship at on a daily bases oh my friends how I dreamed of a plate of vegetables, a fine cut of meat and a glass of the house red often we would talk of such meals during the day however it was all a fantasy as once more we would return to our campsite clutching bake off bread, cans of beer and bags of cheesy quavers.

Oh well at least we didn't come back with scurvy this time.
 
An excellent report, what a fantastic place, I rode through San Sebastian and the Pyrenees almost thirty years ago :rob about time I went back methinks.
Stewart
 
Don't let him fool you into believing this trip was all stunning scenery, fantastic weather, superb roads whilst that was all true there is a very much darker side to the story ask him about the cuisine and he may well tell a tale of car smash chicken served by surly men with blackened finger nails, endless visits to petrol filling stations to obtain yet more long life, e number laced consumables, the everyday site of my ginger friend gnawing at chorizo sausage so greasy I could have lubricated the chain on the tenere with it, his constant hunger for the food of the forecourt knows no bounds he even found a shrine to the art of eating on the move known to many as The Petrocat in viela a shrine we where to worship at on a daily bases oh my friends how I dreamed of a plate of vegetables, a fine cut of meat and a glass of the house red often we would talk of such meals during the day however it was all a fantasy as once more we would return to our campsite clutching bake off bread, cans of beer and bags of cheesy quavers.

Oh well at least we didn't come back with scurvy this time.

guilty as charged :(

fill up with petrol & junk food in the morning at the Petrocat, then a return visit on the way back, as neither of us could be arsed going to a restaurant.

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a typical healthy *cough* lunch...

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first proper meal we had in a week was on the ferry home :(
 
guilty as charged :(

fill up with petrol & junk food in the morning at the Petrocat, then a return visit on the way back, as neither of us could be arsed going to a restaurant.

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a typical healthy *cough* lunch...

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first proper meal we had in a week was on the ferry home :(

And what a great meal it was the ideal end to a great ride to a fantastic place in great company cheers matey:thumb2
 
Nice pics and report and whilst the trails and the gourmet forecourt consumables look interesting what of the miles and miles of sinuous empty tarmac..........quite fancy the Pyrenees myself and may head that way later this year ;)
 
Top report

Hi Guys,

A great ride report along with some good pics of what looked to be a really fun time. Well done.

I got to say that I am with Springer on the food though.

Cheers, :beerjug:
Noel
 
ok, where was i?

sorry about the delay getting back to this, but the airhead w/e and glastonbury got in the way. i'm sure there's a saying about all play and no work, but it slips my mind :)

staying on one campsite left us with an 60/80Km each way commute to get to the trails as they were going further from our base in Vielha. i'd call this a bonus as the roads we travelled twice a day were the scenic C28 up through the ski resort of baqueira-beret, then onto the even more fabulous C13 to Rial.

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the C28 is spectacular, but poorly surfaced. great fun on a GS, but not in the same league as the C13, which looks recently resurfaced, and is billiard table smooth.
now i've ridden a couple of alpine passes in my time, but this bit of road is right up there at the top of the enjoyment table. fast sweepers, beautifully radiused, perfect cambered hairpins, jaw dropping scenery. i'd take it over the much overrated stelvio any day at all.

IMO it's perfect.

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looks good, doesn't it? it is.

we had to suffer that twice a day for 3 days . note distinct lack of any significant traffic.

back to the trails now.

here we encountered the first barriers to progress.

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after some discussion as to ignoring the sign, we decided to go around on the road.
as it turned out, i don't think we were actually more than a few hundred metres from the end of the trail, and i'm pretty sure we could have just carried on, but we weren't too sure at the time.


continuing up the next pass, we got baulked right at the top by a barrier of hard snow and ice.

we could get the bikes onto it, but there was no way to get them down the other side without manpower and ropes.

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sadly, we were forced to retreat. rather a shame when we were so close to the trail leading off down the other side :(

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