Accidental 100GS rebuild

As the piston top looks unskimmed and unmarked, I'd go with Kenny.
Probably some damage to an older valve possibly burnt valve that made the random marks as it rotated whilst running.
 
You need to check the clearance with some light inner valve springs fitted, if innsufficient then the pockets on the pistons need machining deeper. DAMHIK

pm me if you need to know more!
 
SeanW said:
also now have engine bits back from blasting - have come up lovely. have tried hammerite spray as mentioned elsewhere on timing cover and starter cover (and shock body)
Click to expand...

You should have had the airbox and covers powder coated at the same time as your frame cheap and come up a treat. A small brush, tin of nitromores and a sharp knife to lift the powder off the detail and they look like new.

P1010715.jpg
 
Ahhhh;hh I've got me specs on now :rob

Last time I saw the "planishing" effect like that was when I had the very end of a sparkplug electrode come off and embedded in the valve head.
Sounded like a seleton having a wank in a biscuit tin...
but no other damage, as far as I know that engine is still going strong, 30 plus years on..:)
 
well, have stuck them back in now; also timing cover /alternator back on...

gs.jpg
 
driveshaft, swingarm and various electrical gubbins added today...

photo.jpg
 
Feeling there's not really that much left to do once I've rebuilt the forks and got the wheels back from vapour blasting - except for repainting the white bits.

Just re-read Rob's "will I never learn" thread, and while I feel I could have a go at spraying the mudguards and side panels, am a bit less sure about how to tackle the tank and screen if I also want to fit new decals (from bamw) - which I do.

Do you just stick the decals over the final white coat then apply x coats of lacquer?

Also, what's the best way to remove the old decals/ flatten them to the level of the rest of the tank?

Not quit sure what to do with left side panel, which is half black/ half white.

Or can anyone recommend a reasonably priced paint shop? Preferably midlands area

Any pointers from the experts?
 
Cheers rob. Think you could legitimately claim a stake in the bike by the time it's finished... :)
 
last day of holiday spent fruitfully - rebuilding forks and reattaching bevel box and rebuilt shock.

new bearings everywhere. yum.

have been putting off cleaning the carbs up, but will probably grit teeth and do that next

monday.jpg
 
finally off the mx stand - wheels back on, new pirellis, battery and subframe reattached

"new" clock wired in, too, plus freshly helicoiled rocker cover stud threads.

bodywork hopefully back from paintshop in about 2 weeks. should have everything else in place by then

wheels-on2.jpg
 
...if you mean cosmetically "as they are", yes, or at least for now.

Having fitted exchange rechromed stanchions, new lower bushes and new seals, I felt they'd had enough attention for the time being. :)

Suppose coudl have got them powder coated black along with frame parts, but I prefer the original blue.

I'd imagine there will be quite a few minor cosmetic jobs like this to do when it is back together (eg seat cover, some manky old fasteners here and there etc) , but nothing that can't be unbolted and stuck back on in less than hour as and when I have the inclination/spare cash.

The fork lowers might not look immaculate, but they are a lot cleaner than when I bought it...

1O5K0087.jpg

SW_LongTerm_ij_15.jpg
 
Rob Farmer said:
I've been trying various cleaners out for aluminium. B&Q do a cheap cleaner that comes in a 2litre container for a few quid. It's called "No nonsense metal cleaner and restorer" it'll bring your crank and other cases up like new.

black engine cases by the guys above. crankcases using the cleaner above.

P1010715.jpg
Click to expand...

Sorry to hijack this thread but I've been trying to get some of this cleaner for the casings of a new project but B&Q don't stock it anymore. Anyone got a source that still sells it? Or an alternative? Hydrochloric acid has been suggested but what concentration? :nenau
 
Waiting for bodywork to come back from painters so thought would see today if she would fire up....

Bunged on tank from r80/7, hooked up fuel lines and after about a minute of coughing and spluttering she did indeed fire up and eventually settle down to a steady idle

Not picking up so well on the throttle, but might just be just massively out of tune at this stage. I just put the bean can back on where it had been before. Oil pressure fine, charging fine. Carbs basically untouched apart from cleaning the outsides.

But there is a noise coming from right hand cylinder that I don.t like. Left side is super quiet by comparison. It.s kind of a squeaking noise, very obvious and not a normal airhead noise.

Took rocker cover off - all looks fine, clearances correct, plenty of oil. Right side plug very sooty compared to fairly normal left side though.

Before I take the head off to check the piston and rings, has anyone got any other thoughts.? Anything obvious/ classic I might have forgotten during rebuild?
 
Check sooty plug is the correct type :)

Possibly the choke not returning fully, see if you can manually pull the choke arm on the carbuettor down fully.

Old fuel makes for crappy running - try new fuel. Allow 1/16th inch free play in all the cables at the carburettor end . Fill carb float bowls will carb cleaner for a basic flush ( and remove float bowl and check in the corner casting hole, there is a small pin sized hole which feeds the choke and this must be clear )......plus proper OE cork float bowl gaskets:thumb2

Rocker arm bearings worn/pinched to tight maybe causing the squeak. I assume the squeak wasn't there before the strip down?
 
Make sure oil is reaching the rocker gear..
I've seen a "few" so,//// oil hole bunged up with super gasket crap...
 
Not loose plug unfortunately. Plenty of oil getting thru too. Plugs are brand new.

Will have a bit more of a poke around tomorrow. Check rocker end float and bearings.

Only thing I've changed on right side was new Pushrod tubes.

Only other new engine part apart from gaskets, seals etc was a used alternator rotor. Might that squeal for a bit as the brushes bed in? Though I'm fairly sure noise is more right side...
 
...loose plug may be a clue though? Just checked manual and squeaking could also be failed head gasket eg sudden escape of gas thru small gap. Might. Also explain rich running?
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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