Siberia 2012 story so far

Beamer

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Saturday 21st July 2012
Excitement reaching fever pitch now, Mark arrives in at 3.30 today as it was a good bit cheaper to fly from Dublin to Magadan then London to Magadan go figure.
Our flight is due to leave Dublin at 11pm so well head home for a bit off dinner and return to the airport later.


Sunday 22nd July 2012
Our flight was with S7 airlines which was nice they really looked after us and we paid for nothing which was strange after using Ryanair so much over the last couple of years.
We arrived in Moscow Domodedovo airport at 6am and had a 14hrs to wait until our connecting flight to Magadan, knowing this we had planned to do our currency conversion here because the rate was so much better in Moscow and there were 24hour banks open on Sunday to facilitate this.
After searching for a couple of hours for a bank that would change sterling for Mark (I had no problem with euros, all banks took them) we walked into red square to see the kremlin and we lay on the grass for a couple of hours watching the world go by, then off for a bit of lunch before heading out to a different airport for our onward jorney.
We arrived at the airport with hours to spare which was just as well because we were in the wrong airport! Oops now we have to get to the other side of Moscow to the right one which took 1 ¾ hours and left us 1 ½ hour before departure. Phew!!! Not quite sure how we got it so wrong in the first place but it was Marks fault! 

Monday 23rd July 2012
Arrived in Magadan this morning at 1145 after a 8 hour flight from Moscow, The rain was tipping it down it was very cold and miserable.
There is a bus that takes you the 40km or so into Magadan for about £2 and jus about 3 or 4 km outside the city was the old airport with old rotting planes and helicopters on the runway, makes you wonder why they moved the new one so far away.
When we arrived at the bus station we were met by Vita and Alexander our land lord/lady for the next couple of nights, they took us to get sim cards for our phones and sorted our registration for Russian immigration (you have to register where you are staying withing 7 days of arriving in Russia but as mark and I will be travelling through we will have to register every week or so en route) then gave us a bit of a tour of Magadan and up to the Mask of Sorrow (Shorbi)
The apartment was very basic with no curtains on the windows (which didn’t help with the sleeping) but did the trick and is much cheaper than the hotels here. We sat up until midnight messing with sat navs and planning routes etc getting very excited about picking up the bikes in the next day or 2.


Tuesday 24th July 2012
Today we woke at 4am which was a bit of a combination of jetlag and a friend phoning me and waking the whole block of flats, we went for a strole to see if we could find milk for tea but none of the supermarkets open until 10am but luckily for us there was a bar that hadn’t closed yet so was able to sit drink tea (no really that’s all we drank) and eat peanuts. The bar was quite full for that time in the morning with a lot of pissed couples in it, will have to try and avoid that place if mark and I go for a bear any time this week as I couldn’t handle a session like that! :friday
We headed back to the apartment for a bit of breakfast around 7 am after getting refused more tea in the bar (mark was getting a bit lairy :D must have been the caffeine ) the bar was closing, at 7 am!
Around 10am we took a stroll down to the shipping agent to find out about our bikes, we knew the ship was in yesterday and they may take 2 days to get unloaded but when we finally found the company we were told the bikes would not be ready until Friday after 4pm! Bugger!!!! Back to the all night bar then!
We will have to find something to do tomorrow but it doesn’t look promising, today we walked all around the town but found nothing! On a plus side the sun has been out all day though the wind is bitterly could it’s still much nicer than yesterday.

Wednesday 26th July 2012
A bit of a wasted day as we sat drinking with an American, Australian, Russian and a Chec that we met in the steak house last night, was a bit of a session to say the least and didn’t get out of bed until 8pm the next day! The Russian vodka measures are a bit much!
We met a guy Phil (triumph Phil on the hub) who is doing a round the word trip on a triumph tiger, unfortunately the bike has had it so he plans to fly to Anchorage and buy a new bike there to carry on his trip. We are meeting Phil soon for a beer and to hopefully pick his brains on the road conditions ahead of us.
Thursday 27th July 2012
Oh dear, I can see a pattern forming after another messy night! Sat in a bar with Phil last night great guy and very interesting listening to what he has done so far, then we were joined by the local mafia who wanted us to sit and drink with them and that’s when it all went pear shaped was hoping for an early night after the night before.
I’m afraid that if the bike don’t turn up on Friday I will have to take my liver out and smother it in sudocrem and put it back in! :D The thing is that there is not a lot else to do here but go for a pint!
Went for a walk today and came across the Kudo support truck so looked around for the group and found them in a nearby hotel, they arrived in last night after a London to Magadan trip with 4 customers we are going to meet them for a pint tonight seemed like nice chaps and also have all the info on our route.
Friday 28th July 2012
It’s 5.30am and I’ve been awake for ages since the sun started beating in the windows, very exciting day if we get the bikes! We’ll head back up to the mask of sorrow to get some pic’s with the bikes and then hit the road. There is a track just outside Magadan that leads almost to the Old Summer Road (Road of bones) which avoids a big chunk of the m56 Kolimar highway and there for the traffic/lorries, we think it may be about 400km long so going to try to get that done today but none of the guys who arrived here over the last couple of days have done it so we’re unsure of its condition.
Well we didn’t go to see the Kudo lads last night as we were kind of trying to avoid the pub, when people arrive here it seems like a cause for massive celebrations as with Phil the night before so we’ll go see them this morning before we collect the bikes.
This will probably be the last post for a few days until we reach civilisation again but the exciting stuff is about to start so will keep you’s up to date as and when we can.

http://www.mycharity.ie/event/siberia2012
 
A few pics

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Sorry to be going on!!!

I posted up in another section that if we could possibly raise 10€ k for the childrens hospice then we would ride in Kazakstan with mankini's on (at the risk of getting shot!:blast) but there have been not many takers so now may be time to up the anti! How about mohawks in mongolia? i'd look bloody stupid with the big kerry head on me but a small price to pay to help the Sunshine home and Laura Lynn house!:thumb:thumb
Thank you all in advance

Kev

http://www.mycharity.ie/event/siberia2012
 
Around 10am we took a stroll down to the shipping agent to find out about our bikes, we knew the ship was in yesterday and they may take 2 days to get unloaded but when we finally found the company we were told the bikes would not be ready until Friday after 4pm!

A few pics

Doesn't look like it'd take that long to unload that, Kev! :nenau

Good luck on Friday and with the rest of the journey. :thumb
Regards to Mark.
 
The crates are off the ship!!!

The boys are very excited:thumb
 
Looks like a fantastic adventure. Good luck with the rest of you're trip!!
Looking forward to other reports and pics.

All the best, John:beerjug:
 
Great to get an update! :thumb2
Really like Russia, once you get past the initial gruffness, great people. Mad one and all though.
 
Kev's arrived in Tomtor, bout halfway along the Road of Bones.:clap
Weather and road conditions are good:thumb2
 
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They arrived in Yakutsk today! They met a young couple on the ferry who brought them to their home, fed them, put them up for the night and they're bringing the boys on a tour around Yakutsk tomorrow:)

Kev will prob post an update tomorrow and hopefully some photos! They saw a bear on Sunday, Kev rode closer to get a better picture but the noisy bike frightened the bear away:(

They are safe and well and thoroughly enjoying the trip:-)
 
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They arrived in Yakutsk today! They met a young couple on the ferry who brought them to their home, fed them, put them up for the night and they're bringing the boys on a tour around Yakutsk tomorrow:)

Kev will prob post an update tomorrow and hopefully some photos! They saw a bear on Sunday, Kev rode closer to get a better picture but as soon as the bear got sight of Kev it got frightened and ran away:(

They are safe and well and thoroughly enjoying the trip:-)

fixed it for ya:D

Looking forward to some more news:aidan
 
27th July 2012
We finally left Magadan Friday afternoon around 4 pm after and headed out for Tinkinskaya Trakt, we probably should have stayed another night in Mag but were chomping at the bit now after waiting for the bikes for 3 days! We sat at the bottom of the mask of sorrow setting our sat nav’s (mine works great thanks Daithi) when a guy on a cruiser came by and insisted on leading us out to the track which was great except he only rode about 30 mph and we had about 40 miles to the start of the track! We rode the track for 2 hours or so before making camp for the first time, found a little spot well in off the road and got the fire going for a brew. It was a lovely warm evening and we sat round the fire had a freeze dried meal which was actually not bad at all and chilled, the new morning was a different story with the fire gone out and thick frost over all the equipment we both woke freezing we’re lowered into a false sense of security by the lovely evening before.


28th July 2012

Up bright and breezy this freezing cold morning build up the fire for a warm up and breakfast before setting off for Suseman which is the last Benzin stop before the road of bones, Suseman is very much a dead end town and getting there from the end of the track meant going 40km in the wrong direction down the dustiest road I have ever ridden. The M56 is a compacted dirt rocky road and trying to get in front of the lorries that are throwing up the dust is seriously dangerous, you really cannot see a thing so your hitting rocks and gravel ridges with no warning as you go to pass. There is a café in Suseman where we had hoped to get something to eat but unfortunately it was closed so headed straight back out after fuelling for Canchatyda, This is a deserted city that once housed 10000 plus people and one day the heating broke so they all upped and left! From here it was only a short ride to the start of the Road of Bones and we were both very excited but it was getting late so we were going to head for the hunters cabin which is about 40 km in and camp there for the night, We needed shelter for mark as he had set fire to his entire camping kit shortly after leaving our first camp. Luckily when mark’s kit went into his back wheel after catching fire from his exhaust he thought he was going to die skidding down the road, with that in mind some burnt kit is not so bad so he wasn’t as pissed off as I thought he would be!
On arriving at the hunters logged we found a drunk Russian in residence which obviously messed with our plans a bit but we were wet and cold so he invited us in offered us tea and seemed ok but we soon realized he was a bit mad when he was trying to tell us about the Russian Affgan war that he was in and doing machine gun and throat cutting actions, Time to leave we thought so went back out to load the bikes. The Drunken nutter followed us out a couple of minutes later with a shot gun and let a round off towards my bike and was shouting with a drunken slur, at this point mark and I shat ourselves and both thought this was it and all logic went out the window so we killed him and buried him in the woods! (Kidding) we actually tried to pacify him but it’s very difficult when you don’t have the language though he did calm down eventually and showed us they were only blanks in the gun by letting off the second round into some boxes, he probably had the blanks to frighten bears! So now it was 9.30pm raining and cold, mark had no sleep mat or bag and a tent with a fly sheet that only covered half the back and we’re heading further into the road of bones. We rode for about an hour and a half away from the nutter got in well off the road and built a nice big fire and made camp, the rain had stopped so we sat and ate another freeze dried and talked about what we should have done in our little situation back there!


29th July 2012

The best thing about mark burning all his kit was that he had the fire roaring when I woke this morning!  Mark had both our kits to lay on and throw over him but was cold in the morning so he was up early fetching fire wood, we had a bit of breakfast which I think was Hungarian beef with noddle’s and headed off. The day started cold and drizzly but after a couple or hours the sun came out and we had a fantastic days riding, the road from the hunters lodge to Tomtop is great.
We arrived in Tomtop knackered and hot but whilst refuelling and talking about maybe finding Tatyanna’s guest house she pulled up next to us and introduced herself what a result, she took us to the house and sent her husband off to get some nuts and bolts to replace some we had lost along the road they really are a great couple! Around 8pm I though id have a lay down for 5 mins and woke at 8am the next day!


30th July 2012

Woke this morning after 12 hours straight sleep and still feel knackard, the road of bones is a fantastic track but tiring or maybe we are trying to do too much each day. I think the incident with the mad hic in the hunters lodge took it out of us a bit as we ended up riding late into the night even though we were already worn out! Tomtop is a nice little town with a nice feeling about it and Tatyana’s hospitality is second to none, her husband went off and made me a replacement lug for my pannier as one fell off somewhere along the way.
Tomtop boast the record of the coldest inhabited place in the world with the pole of cold monument registering -71.2 but in fact the coldest inhabited place is slightly north of here cant remember the name but think it’s something like omchen.
There is a small museum here which we visited showing bits from the gulags and information about the local people who by all accounts live to a ripe old age, one man lived to 125 years and had a son when he was 70! I think his name roughly translated was strogonhoff Heffner!
We left Tomtop around midday and started off on the second half of the road of bones, the sun was out it was warm and the road from tomtop out is still maintained but the bridges are not so plenty of river crossings ahead.
We got to the end of the road of bones after about 3 hours re fuelled and the headed for Khandaga another 270km along the m56 federal road, The whole way along the m56 was re surfacing works with 6inch down and it was a nightmare much tougher then the road of bones and with the dust from the lorries you could not see a thing so was risky enough and for the last 50 km or so we had the smoke from the forest fires to contend with as well! Khandaga was a dusty Smokey rundown town and we looked for a place to stay from one of Walter’s waypoints and pulled up outside a block of flats with 2 people standing smoking by the front door, Mark spoke to them in his best Russian and turned out that was the b and b although it didn’t look good from the outside the inside was great Oxana and Roman her husband were really nice and looked after us well. We had a plan that at 11 o’clock we could put our bikes in the container for safety but by 10 o’clock we were both fast asleep so Roman blocked the bikes in where they were with his car! Good man Roman!!!

31st July 2012

Today we plan to get as close as possible to Yakutsk but with 400km of the M56, the forest fires and the dust from the road to contend with we’re not sure if we’ll get all the way In 1 day!
So fuel up and off we go with not a great start, the road was a mess with deep lose stone from the road works and 4 large ridges in between of the truck tracks, thick smoke and thicker dust it was not very enjoyable. Got to the Aldan ferry but due to the smoke the captain wouldn’t leave for safety reasons luckily when the smoke got worse he did leave! What’s that all about?
There was a bunch of really nice kids on the ferry that were very interested in us and the bikes, In fact everywhere we go we’re like a couple of celebs people gather round want to know where we’ve been where we’re going and why are we doing it!
So 3 hours later than expected we’re off the ferry and back on the shitty road heading for the café another of Walter’s waypoints (he the man with the info) stopped for a bit of lunch and then off for the Lena river ferry, after lunch the smoke started to clear, the road got better and less traffic/dust so we were happy!
Then onto the Lena ferry about 7pm where we got talking to Nick and Anna, Anna is an English teacher and Nick studied in the states so both had great English.
After talking to Nick and Anna for half an hour they asked us where we were staying and we told them we were to find somewhere when we got to Yakutsk, They said we should stay with them as they had a garage for the bikes and it would be late to start looking for accommodation so we should follow them home! When we arrived at their house Anna started clearing out Their bedroom whilst Nick made us tea, it was only when they bought us to the room we realised and felt bad that they would do this for us but they were more than happy! By the time we had got our stuff in the room Nicks mom had arrived to cook for us, these people had very little money but couldn’t do enough for us complete strangers! So we chatted for a couple of hours had a shower and to bed.


1st August 2012

Woke in a lovely room in Nick and Anna’s house and could smell something nice cooking, Mom had prepared us a huge breakfast and though she had no English and us no Russian we sat and chatted to each other for an hour or so laughing and joking and wondering if we were actually laughing at the same things though it wouldn’t have mattered she is a lovely soft spoken lady I could have listened to for ages! After breakfast we had a few running repairs to do on the bikes, The air filters were completely blocked up with thick dust and we had lots of lose nutts and bolts and chains to tighten. Today was so hot around 35 so working on the bikes took most of the day then in the evening after a lovely Yakutian dinner Nick and Anna took us down town for a tour.
Yakutsk is a mixture of beautiful new buildings and complete wrecks all mixed in together but still and interesting place and tomorrow we get the full tour from Nick and Anna. Night night peeps talk to ya tomorrow!

http://www.mycharity.ie/event/siberia2012
 
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