K1100R

Seems you are right. :thumb2
I have to do SOME(no idea really what though)thing with the Guzzi electrickery - to eliminate bad earths and ensure good live connections.
This thread gives me some hope and direction! :D

I gave up on my Lemon2, I ripped it all out and rewired it complete with modern switchgear:thumb
 
I gave up on my Lemon2, I ripped it all out and rewired it complete with modern switchgear:thumb
I may have to resort to actually doing it properly.:blast
Thought my Cali was now set up fine - but last night on the way home, She decided not to start after a short stop at the local shop - 'ClickClickClick' from the starter :banghead:
Bump starting a Cali 3 is NOT a lot of fun. :mad:
I have no feckin idea whatsoever is wrong this time. :tears
battery; 12.84v
earths - all good. (as far as i can see :rolleyes: )
W.T.F?!
Sorry - this is not the place for this. :topic i'm just VERY frustrated!
 
You have a pm Og
I may have to resort to actually doing it properly.:blast Thought my Cali was now set up fine - but last night on the way home, She decided not to start after a short stop at the local shop - 'ClickClickClick' from the starter :banghead: Bump starting a Cali 3 is NOT a lot of fun. :mad: I have no feckin idea whatsoever is wrong this time. :tears battery; 12.84v earths - all good. (as far as i can see :rolleyes: ) W.T.F?! Sorry - this is not the place for this. :topic i'm just VERY frustrated!
 
Did something about the soldered repair to the heat grip switch:

K1100LT%20%28176%29-L.jpg


I added a few inches of cable and soldered then sealed the joints with heat-shrink (before a sleeve is slipped over):

K1100LT%20%28196%29-L.jpg


Been binding the loom with self-amalgamating tape this morning. The bike has two aux-sockets, one on the coil cover and one originally on the handlebar crash pad. I've always though that the best place for one would be in the tail unit where phone & iPod etc could be recharged. So I've re-routed and extended the wires from the front one which will be fitted into the tail unit later:

K1100LT%20%28198%29-L.jpg


The now redundant ABS connections look a bit odd under the tape but it keeps them out of harm's way and that whole section of the loom will be under the tank now instead of under the seat:

K1100LT%20%28199%29-L.jpg


I've still got to bind the front section of the loom but I'm awaiting some large diameter, glue lined heat-shrink to seal the unused plugs before I do that.

Apart from that, the gearbox screws are all loose ready to remove the 'box:

K1100LT%20%28202%29-XL.jpg


and the forward engine mounts have responded to soaking in de-icer, they too are free and ready to allow the engine to be lowered out:

K1100LT%20%28200%29-L.jpg


K1100LT%20%28201%29-L.jpg
 
Have i got this right?
You use brake cleaner to clean electrics.
You use de icer to unseize nuts/bolts.
There's a few tricks i'm missing here! :thumb2
Got any more?
 
Got any more?

Do NOT interrupt Mike in the carrying out of Extremely Bodacious and Prolific Fettling of the highest order upon his motorcycle

Go On Back to your Guzzi Section Shoo Shoo! there's a good lad :aidan

P.S. Vaseline (or ACF50 grease) on battery terminals and a rubber glove on disused electrical terminals
 
... :blagblah :blagblah:blagblah ...

P.S. Vaseline (or ACF50 grease) on battery terminals and a rubber glove on disused electrical terminals

:eek: AAAaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaagggggghhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!
~~
Og - last seen sprinting towards west coast with clenched cheeks
 
lovin it keep up the good work another MikeP beauty ready to emerge :beerjug:
 
The front of the loom has now been re-bound with the unused bits bundled together:

K1100LT%20%28203%29-L.jpg


Then some 50mm glue-lined heat shrink was used to seal it:

K1100LT%20%28206%29-L.jpg


It's going to have to live inside the headlamp cowl where it's going to be a bit exposed to the elements, hence the "belt & braces".

So then no reason not to pull the gearbox off:

K1100LT%20%28207%29-XL.jpg


The clutch pushrod was reluctant to come out the back of the 'box so I waited until the whole thing was off. There is a risk of bending the pushrod if you're not careful but I slip a couple of long screws into the bellhousing to support the gearbox during the tapping and wiggling phase.

Once it was off I checked the pushrod with a straight-edge and it's okay, just a bit sticky at the clutch end (heavy goo).

Either a seal has gone or someone has been really, really enthusiastic with their spline lube programme.

K1100LT%20%28209%29-L.jpg


It's going to take a bit of cleaning:

K1100LT%20%28210%29-L.jpg


Paraffin followed by brake cleaner makes a start:

K1100LT%20%28211%29-L.jpg


Ho hum! It keeps me off the streets.
 
Cracking work as usual Mike :beerjug:
 
Cheers Ash.

Made some progress with the gearbox clean-up by beginning with a scrape to remove the flaking powder-coat:

K1100LT%20%28212%29-L.jpg


K1100LT%20%28213%29-L.jpg


Then it's the tedious business of rubbing down and feathering the edges of the powder-coat where it's still good:

K1100LT%20%28214%29-L.jpg


K1100LT%20%28215%29-L.jpg
 
Getting back down to work on the gearbox.

Removed the battery tray/footrest sub-frame mounting bobbins. These are much larger on the 1100 models than the K75/K100/K1 versions presumably because they have to take a lot more weight. They also have a large washer beneath them and part of the cast 'web' on the top of the gearbox has been removed to clear them. That and the Paralever lugs are the differences between the gearbox casings.

The clutch actuating arm is seized to the pin but it rotates smoothly so I'm not going to bother fighting to remove it.

Also, you can see how badly the aluminium has been eaten away under the cracked powder-coat on the stand mounts (how I hate powder-coat):

K1100LT%20%28219%29-L.jpg


The paper gasket under the Gear Position Indicator has been letting crap through:

K1100LT%20%28218%29-L.jpg


First time I've used enamel primer. I decided to give it a try after giving the case a squirt of enamel bonding spray:

K1100LT%20%28221%29-L.jpg


K1100LT%20%28222%29-L.jpg


Then a couple of coats of silver enamel:

K1100LT%20%28230%29-L.jpg


Followed by a coat of clear enamel lacquer.

I like to stick to my own, sort of methodical, approach by cleaning all the fittings and mountings so that they can be re-attached to avoid losing them or using them for the wrong thing later when I've forgotten where they go. Bits cleaned:

K1100LT%20%28229%29-L.jpg


The swing-arm, adjustable pivot was showing some signs of galling. A little work with a fine, v-shaped file removed the few burrs:

K1100LT%20%28223%29-L.jpg


If you've ever struggled to remove the bobbins that BMW use in various applications, you'll know why I slathered them in anti-seize paste before re-assembly:

K1100LT%20%28225%29-L.jpg


All threads cleaned with a tap and plenty of alumslip on the screws etc:

K1100LT%20%28226%29-L.jpg


K1100LT%20%28227%29-XL.jpg


Meanwhile, the old tyres have been removed from the replacement RS rims:

K1100LT%20%28220%29-L.jpg


And I've begun the laborious rubbing down (still not as bad as doing the black Y-spoke wheels of the K75S):

K1100LT%20%28216%29-L.jpg


I'm trying to work out how this gouge can have got onto a spoke of the front wheel.

K1100LT%20%28217%29-L.jpg


Answers on a postcard please!
 
great work on the gearbox mike :thumb2

regards the wheel maybe it was poor casting ?

will you use somethong like jbweld to fill it ?

thanks :clap
 
Mike while that box is out and its easy to get at


why not drill a hole in the clutch pivot arm and fit a grease nipple :thumby:

I've done it a few times for folks Unfortunately the box was still on the bike :blast But Hey Ho!
 
I thought about it Jay. Trouble is the arm is seized solid to the shaft. There will come a point when it needs to be replaced and cutting is the only way to get it out.

The shaft is turning freely.
 
Cracking work Mike as ever :beerjug:
 
Gouge on spoke;

result of trying to ride away with a 'U' lock on. :nenau

~~
DAMHIK :augie
 


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