Pulling the gearbox - 1100RT

scotboxer said:
So, about to fit the new clutch and laid it out on the dining room table. (The boss is out!). Do the three pegs on the cover plate engage with the 'oles in the spring steel extensions to the driven plate? Yes, I know I should have paid more attention when I removed the old clutch.:blast

Also looking for confirmation of the need to stagger the paint marks on the components. Previously, Steptoe said this was not necessary since each component is individually balanced?
Click to expand...

I was just thinking that's should have looked more carefully before removing my clutch (my new clutch kit arrived today) :D

I took this pic when I took it to bits - I think it shows the pin in the spring steel hole:

uqeta9a3.jpg


This is a page from the factory manual which says that you should space the marks at 120 degrees (whether it actually matters, I couldn't say...)

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scotboxer said:
Also looking for confirmation of the need to stagger the paint marks on the components. Previously, Steptoe said this was not necessary since each component is individually balanced?
Click to expand...

Posting on this thread previously I recommended staggering the marks 120Deg or as near as you can, This is because it is what I did after researching it and that was a couple of years ago, the bike and clutch perform great with no undue vibrations, I think you can take that as confirmation along with manual snap above :D
 
Easyrider5258 said:
Posting on this thread previously I recommended staggering the marks 120Deg or as near as you can, This is because it is what I did after researching it and that was a couple of years ago, the bike and clutch perform great with no undue vibrations, I think you can take that as confirmation along with manual snap above :D
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Yep, it will do no harm to stagger them. Now about those pegs on the clutch cover ...
 
scotboxer said:
Yep, it will do no harm to stagger them. Now about those pegs on the clutch cover ...
Click to expand...

Just reassembled my old clutch components (you can see how they fit together from the clutch dust) - the pegs definitely go in the holes:

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HTH
 
scotboxer said:
Yep, it will do no harm to stagger them.
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It does no harm, but i've taken apart sooooo many bikes that haven't been touched since leaving the factory where they've been assembled any old way, marks all together, two together etc etc .

scotboxer said:
Now about those pegs on the clutch cover ...
Click to expand...

fairly obvious It can only go together one way ? . Have you tried putting them together out of the boxes ?
 
Despite Steptoe's cheery anecdote :D .. I would suggest more than doing no harm, it is the right way as clearly stated in the Factory Manual :thumb :D:
 

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Steptoe said:
fairly obvious It can only go together one way ? . Have you tried putting them together out of the boxes ?
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I have now and they fit fine after a bit of tugging on the spring steel extensions. The marks on the cover and driven plate are nowhere near 120 deg apart though. Either 170 ish or 45 ish. Hey ho!

Thanks Neil ,Mark and Matt.
 
Easyrider5258 said:
Despite Steptoe's cheery anecdote :D .. I would suggest more than doing no harm, it is the right way as clearly stated in the Factory Manual :thumb :D:
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The bikes i'm referring to were assembled at the factory :D Hence why i wouldn't worry about it.
 
Well my gearbox is on its way back from Steve Scriminger. Just needed new bearings and seals - shafts and gears were ok (which is something of a relief on an M94 box) so the total cost wasn't too bad. Will try to put it all back together on Sunday.

Hope your's is going ok Scotboxer.
 
A bit of sunshine and decent temps today so it was back to the lockup. Fitted the new clutch but used the old bolts initially. (Hence the reminder in the pic!). I borrowed back the input shaft from Bob who's doing the rebuild for me and used it and the pushrod to centre the clutch. I plan to replace the old bolts with the new ones, one by one and then torque them down. I notice that the splines on then input shaft are a tad proud of the friction plate centre. Is this normal?
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OK. Starting to think about re-fitting the gearbox and swinging arm, so a couple of questions for the parish ...

1. Views on using Loctite on the swinging arm pivots? BMW say it's necessary. Other sources suggest that 100+ newton meters of torque should be sufficient and the loctite is litigation proofing.

2. Torque value for the adjustable pivot. BMW say 7NM but foul mouthed Chris Harris on Youtube suggests 10NM.

Views from around the parish pump invited!
 
For what it's worth, when I just refitted my box this time around I didn't bother loctiting the swingarm or paralever pivots. I painted little witness marks on them so I can do a quick 'at a glance' check.

I went with foul mouthed Chris and used 10Nm on the (not new) adjustable swingarm and paralever pivots.
 
MattW said:
For what it's worth, when I just refitted my box this time around I didn't bother loctiting the swingarm or paralever pivots. I painted little witness marks on them so I can do a quick 'at a glance' check.

I went with foul mouthed Chris and used 10Nm on the (not new) adjustable swingarm and paralever pivots.
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I always did this, never did see the point of loctiting a lock nut!
 
I agree with the non Loctite comments, nor did I Loctite the paralever pins and lock nuts for ease of adjustment / greasing :thumb (Also used the paint witness mark)
 
Fekkity. Feck feck feck!

Gearbox now rebuilt and have spent all this pm trying to mate it with the engine block. Supported it with a trolley jack and got a pal to help. Slid it onto the studs and onto the push rod. Sussed the earth strap was obstructing and sorted that. Can I achieve penetration (of the input shaft into the clutch cover!)? Not a feckin chance!

Now reluctantly reaching the BFI stage. How much pushing and shoving and jiggling is needed without bending the push rod?
 
scotboxer said:
Fekkity. Feck feck feck!

Gearbox now rebuilt and have spent all this pm trying to mate it with the engine block. Supported it with a trolley jack and got a pal to help. Slid it onto the studs and onto the push rod. Sussed the earth strap was obstructing and sorted that. Can I achieve penetration (of the input shaft into the clutch cover!)? Not a feckin chance!

Now reluctantly reaching the BFI stage. How much pushing and shoving and jiggling is needed without bending the push rod?
Click to expand...

Are you sure you centred the clutch properly? I used a spare input shaft (as I think you did).

I also removed the battery box rubber mount that gets in the way of the earth strap - made offering the box up much easier. It is possible (just) to re-fit the offending mount with the gearbox in place - took a bit of swearing and persuasion but it went back in.

Failing that, my gearbox was in gear when it was returned to me and it wouldn't go first time. I put it in neutral and rotated the input shaft round a bit - it went on ok after this. I think the thing that made the most difference was removing the left hand battery box mount - much easier to offer it up straight and true without having to fight it past the earth strap.
 
Hmmm ... I put in gear thinking I would rotate the input shaft by hand via the gearbox output shaft. Seems that May have been the wrong thing to do. Will try it in neutral tm pm. The earth strap is a pain but is now on the right side of the rubber mount. However, if I can remove it easily, I may do that.
 
If you have the transmission only, without the swing arm and somebody to help (just in case) it might be a good idea to remove the guide studs and just free float it. Ability o move the transmission in 3D can give you the advantage you need. Plus jiggle is always better than push.
 
Ok. Had another go today. First I dismantled the clutch and placed the friction plate over the gbox input shaft, just in case ... Dropped on a treat. Centred the clutch with pushrod and socket. Then tried again after removing the guide studs. Got the splines engaged but the box would not fit fully. About a centimetre short before resistance set in. It occurs that the push rod spring and cap at the other end of the push rod may be providing sufficient resistance? Should I try to draw on the box using the bolts at the dowels? Should the actuating rod , spring, bellows etc be removed before fitting the gear box?

I could of course remove the push rod and try a temp fit without it and see if the box fits. May do that after finishing this cuppa and a few biccies.

Meantime, any thoughts from the oracle?
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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