Ball joint boot rubber seal replacement

Just done this the other week so hers how:
1st get the bike on centrestand but on some wood an inch or so higher is fine.

Undo the nut its tight you need to take side panel off for access,I used a towel to stop damage to forkleg whilst the nut is been undone need a torx allen key to hold it.

Then remove the bottom shock bolt,allows the arm to give enough clearance to get boot on/off.

I had to destroy the bottom spring retainer its awkward to get to anyhow,& its the reason the seals split,cos their held tight then twist out of shape but now mine turns with steering has grease to keep wet out.

Replaced it greased the inside then back together locktight on bolts & a new nut cap.

When I removed the nut there is only so much room to jack the bike up,thus due to brake hose length,luckily just enough to do this job

Also I used a cable tie to hold the arm up onto the brake cable,keeping it out of the way see pic.

Took me just over half hour very simple job to do,& the gator is under £10 from Motorworks or £80 complete unit from BMW

Hi bikermad. A few years on now but when torquing up the nut again, did you have to use a special tool in order to keep access for the Allen socket or did you do something else?
Thanks

Ive done the same job.

Tighten the nut with the allen key and ring spanner. Dont go mad "nipped" is enough. Use a torque wrench with long socket to get the correct torque. The spindle seat should have gripped enough for the nut to tighten correctly. Tip: Before tightening, make sure the spindle and seat are not greasy.