A Peek Behind The Iron Curtain

grez · Aug 9, 2016

In the right section.....

Well it is almost that time of the year where I head off to see how much trouble I can get into in Europe and beyond. The plan as it stands is to take a ferry over to Holland and ride up to Sweden where I get the ferry to Lithuania. From there up to Tartu in Estonia for a few days then on to St Petersburg for a few days then up into Finland, the Arctic Circle and then somehow find my way home (the return bit has not been planned except for the ferry back from Holland.

Little did I know the amount of hassle getting the visa for Russia, insurance for the bike (thanks to Victoria from Carole Nash for sorting it – apparently being told on the phone by another company that Russia was defiantly included really means not a chance in hell after you have bought the policy) and even having to (or perhaps not) book the waiting area in Narva for the border crossing into Russia. Yes I could probably get insurance at the border and take my chances with times at the crossing but given my history a bit of pre-planning seemed a good idea. Let’s hope I don’t get to test the crash bars the guys at ABW fitted for me.

Can’t wait for Friday – might even pack early on Wednesday night for a change.

Tommy Gunn · Aug 9, 2016

Sounds good, the very best of luck. Looking forward to the report & pictures.
Take care & be safe.

Micky · Aug 9, 2016

All systems go .... enjoy and get back on here with a ride report and photographs please

I loved Russia, forget about what people say, what we are told, they're great people and very friendly and welcoming.

Ride safe ...

:beerjug:

timeandtide · Aug 9, 2016

grez said:
In the right section.....

Well it is almost that time of the year where I head off to see how much trouble I can get into in Europe and beyond. The plan as it stands is to take a ferry over to Holland and ride up to Sweden where I get the ferry to Lithuania. From there up to Tartu in Estonia for a few days then on to St Petersburg for a few days then up into Finland, the Arctic Circle and then somehow find my way home (the return bit has not been planned except for the ferry back from Holland.

Little did I know the amount of hassle getting the visa for Russia, insurance for the bike (thanks to Victoria from Carole Nash for sorting it – apparently being told on the phone by another company that Russia was defiantly included really means not a chance in hell after you have bought the policy) and even having to (or perhaps not) book the waiting area in Narva for the border crossing into Russia. Yes I could probably get insurance at the border and take my chances with times at the crossing but given my history a bit of pre-planning seemed a good idea. Let’s hope I don’t get to test the crash bars the guys at ABW fitted for me.

Can’t wait for Friday – might even pack early on Wednesday night for a change.

No point in telling you you to be careful I suppose :rob

Hope you make it in one piece! :augie

Ash · Aug 14, 2016

Timaloy said:
Sounds good, the very best of luck. Looking forward to the report & pictures.
Take care & be safe.

+1

We eagerly await your safe return & ride report....

grez · Aug 16, 2016

It starts, first stop from work ABW to pick up a puncture repair kit as I have put mine “somewhere safe”. Then off down the motorway to Harwich, nothing unusual just some traffic jams. Made Harwich in good time for some food and a good night’s sleep as tomorrow would be a mile munching day.

Good crossing and headed off to Lubeck. Just a boring day on the main roads but at least the scenery was OK. Got the miles done and checked in to the hotel, 5 mins before a monumental downpour. There were around a dozen Harleys there ridden by large Germans (like I can comment). Wandered off to get something to eat and found myself in town where a big bear festival and live band were on, the Duckstein. Had some food and some beer, listened to the band who were quite good and had a chat with some Germans. Explains why it was so hard to get a hotel room. Phone dead so no pictures (bugger). Up early for breakfast and off in the sun to Karlshamn for the ferry over to Lithuania – so far so good.

Hating windows 10.

grez · Aug 17, 2016

Left Lubeck early heading for Karlshamn in Sweden. Stuck to main roads as time was against me. Had lunch in what I thought was Sweden but turned out to be Denmark, thank god for credit cards. Made it to the ferry, port a bit of a dump. Got chatting to 3 guys from the Red Devils bike club in Riga who offered to give me a hand getting through the paperwork. Met a German couple on KTM's who turned out had the cabin next to mine. Cabin had a hole in it through which I could see the sea, the decadence of it. Good nights sleep and Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia await.

Really fucking hating windows 10.

grez · Aug 19, 2016

Well getting off the boat was fine and off out the harbour and away. Bit of a slog around 350 so stuck to main roads. First part was a 2 lane highway then a normal main road with interesting scenery. Clicked off the miles and got passed by the guys from the Red Devils in Riga. Passed them a bit later as one of their Harleys had broken down. Didn't need my help so on my way and got into Tartu around 6:00 pm. Found the hotel and what a cracking hotel it turned out to be - Hotel Hartu. Not big and close to a main road but only 50 Euros a night, didn't hear a thing and a 10 min walk to the city centre - all a traveller requires and English speaking desk staff. Parked the bike inside the courtyard and dropped gear off in a nice big room with a big shower and unwound. Tired so ate in the hotel restaurant which was great so I drank beer and went to bed ready to explore tomorrow.

Bounce · Aug 19, 2016

Be safe Chris & enjoy.... :thumb2

Ash · Aug 21, 2016

Bounce said:
Be safe Chris & enjoy....

+1.....

Enjoying it so far :thumb2

grez · Aug 22, 2016

Walked around Tartu in the rain all day. Interesting place with a selection of great buildings. The University was founded in 1632 with the present building being built in 1809, my university never looked like that. The bridge over the river began construction in 1776 and opened in 1784. The central section was blown up by the Red Army on 9th July 1941 and the rest by the Germans in 1944. This new bridge opened in 1959. There are numerous interesting and historic buildings in town including an observatory, built 1808, (unfortunately closed) and the old anatomical theatre building. Well worth a visit as an interesting center of learning and culture.

Decided to eat at the old gunpowder cellar which says it is the tallest pub in the world with a ceiling over 10 m high. Good food and beer and cute English speaking waitresses.

grez · Aug 22, 2016

Made it to Russia. Road from Tartu was OK in heavy rain until there was no road, just road works covered in a thin layer of mud and in one case just mud. Sensible people will detour through the petrol station to avoid this section - I didn't and did my best impression of an octopus on acid at an illegal rave but stayed the right side up. Took 3 hours instead of 2 so if doing this route allow extra time. Getting into Russia was a bit of a farce and took another 2 hours with only one person doing passports and one doing customs. Best bet is to walk to the front of the queue to get the documents to fill in including the customs form in English (2 copies) and have your vehicle registration to hand (they call it a vehicle passport which was confusing). Eventually got through after showing my passport 5 times (twice within 20 feet). Not quite as bad a Morocco but close. Drove through a wet St Petersburg in the rush hour - mental. RUSSIAN DRIVERS ARE MENTAL - the videos showing crazy crashes are a normal ever 5 mins occasion. They overtake on both sides (and the grass if there is no road). Think nothing of screaming past then ramming the brakes on and pulling in front of you. Saw 3 multiple pile up in as many miles. Massive downpour as I arrived again but a decent hotel for me, bed, decent bathroom and separate room with a sofa and tv.

Few photos of the road there and the crossing into Russia.

grez · Aug 22, 2016

Early impression of Russia and St Petersburg.

grez · Aug 24, 2016

Today was a walk around the historic heart. The hotel was perfectly situated so started with the church of spilled blood and then walked into the centre to see various historic buildings, the Hermitage museum (recommend getting it booked on the internet as queues to get in were huge), Alexander column (Designed by the French-born architect Auguste de Montferrand, built between 1830 and 1834 with Swiss-born architect Antonio Adamini, and unveiled on 30 August 1834. The monument — the tallest of its kind in the world — is 47.5 m (155 ft 8 in) tall and is topped with a statue of an angel holding a cross and is not anchored to the ground). Walked across the river down to a docked Whiskey Class submarine in operation until the late 1980's and got a personal tour in English by a member of staff who served 25 years on one as a weapons controller? (input guidance information for torpedoes). A few photos to give a flavour of the place.

Saw another UK GS at the four seasons hotel also, bit up market for me.

Duraace · Aug 24, 2016

Great stuff. Very interesting as it's a trip I'd like to tackle one day. Keep the posts coming....

Mr K · Aug 24, 2016

timeandtide · Aug 24, 2016

Enjoying this Grez . . keep it right side up :thumby:

Santa-2512 · Aug 27, 2016

I stayed in the Raddison/ i think?? It was just near St Issac's cathedral

Amazing place, didn't get dark at night, lol it was almost a permanent twilight,

Scary to see it Snow in June though!!

As you say about the driving .... shocking,

certain other members of the populous require watching too

light fingers!!

Mart

grez · Aug 31, 2016

Well day 2 in St Petersburg saw the sun shine so off I went heading to the Smolny & Vosstaniya District. Nice park and the eternal flame was followed by a walk to the river to see the memorial to the victims of political repression with the Kresty Prison on the opposite bank. Went over the bridge (Petrograd & Vybord sides) to Finland Station where Lenin arrived in 1917 after 17 years exile in Finland. Then over to the Peter & Paul Fortress with the grand chapel where Peter the First and Catherine the First are buried. The fortress was founded in 1703 and the cathedral built between 1712 and 1733. Within the fortress is the Trubetskoy Bastion prison where the likes of Maxim Gorky & Leon Trotsky were held. Prisoners from the 1917 revolution were held here with many being executed or sent off to Siberia. The ticket gets you into the top 5 attractions although the space exhibition is a bit dull. All in all a good day of sightseeing followed by a late dinner and bed ready for the trip to Finland tomorrow.

grez · Aug 31, 2016

Up early for breakfast and it was pissing it down. The ride out was miserable with lots of standing water, lorries sending waves over the bike as they passed the other side and no grip. Mixed in with crazy Russian drivers that only slow by 1% for rain and the edge of the city was a welcome relief. It dried up and the road improved as I headed out following signs to Helsinki. The road meandered onto what appeared to be a backwards track to nowhere but from the number of big lorries on it I gathered it was the main road to the border. Came across a war memorial in the middle of nowhere with a bus load of school kids on a day out and got a fair few odd looks from the teachers.

Followed a pair of Russian bikers to the customs point jumping the queue where they got into a furious row with the guards. After more paperwork and exit forms were filled in and passport was checked three times I headed to the Finnish border point. A very pleasant woman who laughed at my comment about entering the safety of Finland after the crazy Russians.

Wound my way along the roads to a little place called Oravi where there was another good hotel in a kind of fishing/outdoor water sports area. Noticed the huge increase in food and fuel prices but it was a great place to stay. You can hire canoes for the day to go to the islands or go fishing and apparently camping in the national forest is free. The road there included a few miles of gravel, apparently setting Garmin to "no unpaved roads" does not exclude gravel.

A Peek Behind The Iron Curtain

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