Bike slow to turn on and slow to turn off

billy10

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Since the temperature plummeted (it's approx -3 C daytime temp today) the bike takes 2-3 seconds longer to turn on after I turn the key, and the same delay occurs when I turn the bike off with the key. No other changes noticed. Needless to say my car and other bike don't have the same issue.

Anyone had the same or know the reason for this? Thanks
 
Probably the ignition switch on the lower part of the ignition barrel, mine used to do it a lot, I replaced it before it packed up completely, mine was just slow at turning on sometimes, quite often had to turn it on and off a few times to make it work, I have heard of others whose switch used to stay on after trying to turn it off. It cost around 80 quid to replace as it wasn't covered on the extended warranty at the time.
 
That looks like it to me, couple of torx screws from below with a long bar , on my 06 gsa it was just a case of unplugging the old one and plugging the new one in, I could actually feel the old switch sticking with a screwdriver in the hole to turn it so knew that was the problem, been fine ever since.
 
I had a problem with an earlier GS where it would, sometimes take a few quick turns of the key to get the ignition on.
I fixed this by inserting the straw of a can of WD40 down into the lock and giving it a good squirt then operating the key many times.
A few attempts at this fixed the problem. I suspect the WD40 made it's way into the switch at the bottom and cleaned the
contacts enough for it to never to be problem again.
It could well be that doing the same thing could alleviate the problem you have with your switch.
 
Thanks. Yes, I use some ACF-50 on key-operated locks on the bike as have found they all stick over time (including top box). Hadn't thought to try contact cleaner though which I will do. Appreciate the suggestion - far better not to have to replace (and, frankly, I should have thought of that myself!) Cheers

Has anyone else (other than gazza) had this issue?
 
The switch is totally separate from The key part of the switch if you see what I mean, if your key part is turning on and off smoothly and easily I don't think that will be the problem tbh.
 
billy10 said:
Since the temperature plummeted (it's approx -3 C daytime temp today) the bike takes 2-3 seconds longer to turn on after I turn the key, and the same delay occurs when I turn the bike off with the key. No other changes noticed. Needless to say my car and other bike don't have the same issue.

Anyone had the same or know the reason for this? Thanks
Click to expand...

Well if the key turns ok but there's a delay on the electrics that sounds more like an electrical rather than a mechanical problem.

Check the earths.
 
Thank you. Great suggestion. Will do that. Do you think cylinder/crankcase earths, or ignition wiring connector, or both possible culprits?
 
Didn't have a lot of time so sprayed the ignition key slot, the two cylinder head earths, and the crankcase earth (visible through bodywork on left hand side) with contact cleaner, then after a few minutes with ACF50. Electrics now come on much faster than before. Not certain if they are normal or not, but like I said, didn't have a lot of time.

Thanks to everyone for suggestions. Will see how it behaves in coming days before spending the money to replace ignition switch unit.
 
Working fine now. Thanks very much for suggestions. Contact cleaner and/or ACF50 did the job
 
billy10 said:
Working fine now. Thanks very much for suggestions. Contact cleaner and/or ACF50 did the job
Click to expand...

Excellent :thumb2

I suspect the contact cleaner has worked it's way down into the micro-switch under the key barrel and worked some magic on the contacts in there
making for a better contact. These contacts don't carry much current so it's not as though you get any arcing or wiping movement when they make so
no self cleaning action.
 
Could be that. I noticed that immediately after I did it, it was about 50% better. Next day was 100% better. Led me to suspect the ACF50 might have done the trick, or at least the combination, as ACF50 creeps/penetrates while contact cleaner evapourates
 
Mine would not switch on last Wednesday. They key worked fine but the bike behaved like the battery was stone flat. It eventually connected and has been fine since. At >70K miles its probably best to fit a new switch.

Does anyone know if they changed the model during production run of the bike? I mean, would a late model switch fit my 2008 bike?
 
Switch same for all years. Did one on my old 08, and just replaced same switch on my 650 twin for the second time. They don't seem to last long if the bike lives outside. BTW the one I just bought was £70 from a dealer, easy job to fit.
 
Bendy toy said:
Thanks. :)

I'll probably take a punt on eBay for a low miles switch.
Click to expand...

Tbh the low miles switch may not necessarily be a good move, it could still be a 10 year old switch, iirc the new switch I bought looked slightly different from the one on my 06 fitted perfectly though and has not been a problem since,
 
Bendy toy said:
Thanks. :)

I'll probably take a punt on eBay for a low miles switch.
Click to expand...

It's more than likely, as i have pointed out above that the contacts are dirty so if you are going to go to the trouble
of removing it just out of interest put a multi meter across it and see what it reads and is it consistent with each operation
of the switch. If i was doing it i would fill it with WD40 or contact cleaner whilst, at the same time operating it thus cleaning the contacts.
I have revived quite a few micro-switches that way. Why, you may ask when you can get a new one well, i couldn't always have new one
to hand for the particular machine i had been called out to repair so, needs must. Such is the life of a mobile maintenance engineer
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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