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Bit of airhead gearbox help please
- Thread starter Mark Hooton
- Start date
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I normally just remove swingarm pins and pull the swingarm back an inch or two
It only needs to come back an inch to clear the clutch plate
Oh Back an inch or so rotate 100 ish degrees unclip the wires from Neutral Switch
Wiggle and woggle ( The box not you!!!) and
it should come back,
right
and out to the right
reasonably easy
EDIT Just spotted clutch arm still in pic
Undo clutch cable and the Clutch arm pivot bolt and lift off the arm, the Boot, the Spring and any bits you can get out of the orifice!
with a bit of luck the pushrod might move back easy for you (Yeah right!! Like that only ever happens in the movies!! )
But Once the box moves back and it is free, you can get a little extra room by withdrawing the pushrod a bit
and get it out as soon as you can to prevent the rod getting damaged or bent
That's some bodge of a gear linkage!!
Ah ok - that’s great advice, thanks, fist time working on an airhead! I’ll do that then as I wasn’t really looking forward to moving the engine from it’s location - I’ll wiggle wiggle woggle it out! And yeah I’ve noted the neutral switch wires!
And then it’s the grand opening lol - after some trawling there seems to be a spring that can break (causing the gear change problem) and I’m hoping that it’s easily accessible and replaced.
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Thanks - the clutch arm HAS been removed (old photo) tho the Haynes did say to leave the pushrod in place whilst removing the box from the engine?
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I’m presuming the spring (which it might be) is one on the left of the box?
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B Murr
Registered user
Useful info re a tool that can be made to get you home in situations where the spring fails. If you were to quickly make up the tool now you have the perfect opportunity to demonstrate it at work.https://bmwmotorcycletech.info/emergency-shifting-tool.htm
I’m presuming the spring (which it might be) is one on the left of the box?
3 to chose from https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0478-USA-06-1988-47E1-BMW-R_100_GS&diagId=23_0252
But if I recall its number 4 that is usually the culprit
What, no one is going to mention the colour of that oil while we are at it? 
Looks like the "all purpose" gravy they serve up in my local cafe!
Seriously, looks like water contamination, stick a new speedo drive grommet on while you are at it (the usual cause of contamination and rusted out layshaft bearings)
Looks like the "all purpose" gravy they serve up in my local cafe!
Seriously, looks like water contamination, stick a new speedo drive grommet on while you are at it (the usual cause of contamination and rusted out layshaft bearings)
What, no one is going to mention the colour of that oil while we are at it?
Looks like the "all purpose" gravy they serve up in my local cafe!
Seriously, looks like water contamination, stick a new speedo drive grommet on while you are at it (the usual cause of contamination and rusted out layshaft bearings)
I did notice but then looked at the date on the photo and reckoned it was a "stock photo" off t'internet
What, no one is going to mention the colour of that oil while we are at it?
Looks like the "all purpose" gravy they serve up in my local cafe!
Seriously, looks like water contamination, stick a new speedo drive grommet on while you are at it (the usual cause of contamination and rusted out layshaft bearings)
Very good suggestion but it’s a library image just to illustrate what I expect to find!
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Yes it most certainly is! Just to illustrate what I expect to find when I do get it off!
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Well spank me till I’m rosy red - check this gearbox ‘oil’ out! Also, work has now stopped until I get a 27mm box spanner to remove the swinging arm. Big job this, gearbox out. And yes the 10mm ring spanner does the drive shaft!
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The rubber boot at the gearbox on the speedo cable is a good guess as the culprit for letting in water
Good thing is there does not seem to be a huge amount of sparkles in there
A wee half litre of atf or paraffin wash might be a good call if the motor still runs ? Cleans and lubricates parts that can now rust that you have broken the seal so to speak
Stick any 27mm socket in the lathe (Preferably a six sided one rather than a bi-hex) and just remove the required excess to allow the socket to fit in there
Those nuts are not as tight as the pivot bolt nuts on the 11XXs
Beemerboff
Registered user
The 11xx pivot bolts had super strong Locktite on the threads, sometimes you needed a oxy torch to heat them enough to break the bond.
Ok thanks for that - 27mm box spanner expected this week - I’ll apply some heat!
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