Gearbox Gaiter Replacement (and rear disk while we are at it!)

Slipperyeel · Oct 10, 2019

When I think of how the FD swings down, just for servicing, I reckon it gets a much longer life as a consequence - compared to the 1150 which is left with a really narrow range of movement for its entire life.

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Slipperyeel · Oct 10, 2019

Mr Bean said:
On my 2007 bike Staburags (off-white sealing grease) was used to seal the drive gaiter to the swing arm, it's thick, sticky and waterproof.

Same is used on my LC.

The grease used on the driveshaft splines was Optimoly paste by Castrol.

Are you sure Staburags was used just for the sealing of the gaitors?

have you seen the cost of it?

I'd be really surprised... I'd hazard a guess you've just seen calcium grease..

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Mr Bean · Oct 10, 2019

Slipperyeel said:
Are you sure Staburags was used just for the sealing of the gaitors? have you seen the cost of it?

I'd be really surprised... I'd hazard a guess you've just seen calcium grease..

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Reasonably sure. I bought a 50g tube of the stuff from an eBay seller for £20 and it goes a long way.

Having had a driveshaft snap due to the boot not correctly seating and suffering water ingress, I'm happy to pay the cost. You could argue that had I dropped the FD at every 6k service I would have spotted the corrosion and could of avoided the rear wheel locking on a dark, wet M25. Filtering at around 40mph between lanes 2&3 and a sideways slide to a halt in lane 1, just ahead of an artic.

Whenever the boot is disturbed I now make sure a smear is added.

I think it used to be used for lubing the splines but (again) reasonably sure Optimoly is now the official product.

adm1 · Oct 10, 2019

Right, back to spacers, gasket rings and such.....

I had a good look at the final drive just now and I have figured out the parts.

First off, it's not (to my mind) entirely logical the way that these things are shown on the realOEM parts finder. You need to flip between the swingarm drawing and the final drive drawing to figure out how they all fit together

On the left hand side of the bike, in the final drive part of the pivot there is the needle roller bearing (33117684640). This is shown on the final drive drawing.

On the left hand side of this bearing is the "gasket ring" (33117684996). This is the part that is knackered in my pics above - and below once removed. Vines BMW just happen to have one in stock for about a quid!

Then on the right hand side of the bearing there is an o-ring (07119904693) and a spacer (33177672817). For some reason, these are all shown on the swingarm drawing. Vines also have these in stock, but I don't need them. You can just about make them out in the photo below.

Just to confuse things, the right hand side of the final drive pivot contains an angular ball bearing, with a lock ring on one side of it and an o-ring and spacer on the other side. These are all shown on the final drive drawing.

Personally, I would have put the three parts that sit beside the left hand side bearing on the same drawing as the bearing. Just like they did with the right hand side bearing. But maybe that's just me....

Anyway, rambling over and problem solved. I'll pick up the new gasket ring today and all will be well.

Slipperyeel · Oct 10, 2019

Mr Bean said:
Reasonably sure. I bought a 50g tube of the stuff from an eBay seller for £20 and it goes a long way.

Having had a driveshaft snap due to the boot not correctly seating and suffering water ingress, I'm happy to pay the cost. You could argue that had I dropped the FD at every 6k service I would have spotted the corrosion and could of avoided the rear wheel locking on a dark, wet M25. Filtering at around 40mph between lanes 2&3 and a sideways slide to a halt in lane 1, just ahead of an artic.

Whenever the boot is disturbed I now make sure a smear is added.

I think it used to be used for lubing the splines but (again) reasonably sure Optimoly is now the official product.

Bloody hell, sounds like a close shave you don't want to repeat!

Still not convinced you're using that Staburags in the right way. Silicone grease or white calcium is I believe the right stuff. But I'm open to being corrected!

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Steptoe · Oct 10, 2019

mikeyboy said:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/pa...313_&mg=33&sg=35&diagId=33_1226&q=33117684996
Think that’s it,will check pt no tomorrow

Here you go

adm1 · Oct 10, 2019

Steptoe said:
Here you go

I have one in my hand right now! Also a new FD breather, speed sensor o-ring and disc bolts. And a set of brake pads. Hopefully the disc itself will arrive this afternoon.

adm1 · Oct 10, 2019

Yay!

adm1 · Oct 10, 2019

The brake disc arrived and is now installed and torqued to spec.

Double Yay!

Pukmeister · Oct 10, 2019

Once you have refitted the FD 'Knuckle' back onto the swingarm and retorqued it, grab it and try to wrestle it from side to side (relative the the swingarm casting) feeling for play.

Last time I had weird handling with my GSA I found the knuckle had slight side play, yet on strip down the trunnion showed as little wear/brinelling as yours does in your picture. My needle rollers were fine. I replaced the trunnion pin, deep collared nut and felt washer and all was good with mine again.

Looking at your pics that is the new type of brake disk/wheel carrier flange as it is made of steel, the ones that cracked and were recalled were all an aluminium alloy.

If I remove my GSA driveshaft again in future, I am going to give it a dust over with a rattle can of primer and chassis black paint as they always seem to get light surface rusting.

The upper paralever arm securing nut (crushed oval nut) on the FD to reaction arm is meant to be used once only but I gave mine a squeeze in the vice and reused it with a bit of thread lock. Naughty perhaps, but it was a Sunday and the bike dealers were shut. It hasn't come undone.

adm1 · Oct 10, 2019

Pukmeister said:
Once you have refitted the FD 'Knuckle' back onto the swingarm and retorqued it, grab it and try to wrestle it from side to side (relative the the swingarm casting) feeling for play.

Last time I had weird handling with my GSA I found the knuckle had slight side play, yet on strip down the trunnion showed as little wear/brinelling as yours does in your picture. My needle rollers were fine. I replaced the trunnion pin, deep collared nut and felt washer and all was good with mine again.

Looking at your pics that is the new type of brake disk/wheel carrier flange as it is made of steel, the ones that cracked and were recalled were all an aluminium alloy.

If I remove my GSA driveshaft again in future, I am going to give it a dust over with a rattle can of primer and chassis black paint as they always seem to get light surface rusting.

The upper paralever arm securing nut (crushed oval nut) on the FD to reaction arm is meant to be used once only but I gave mine a squeeze in the vice and reused it with a bit of thread lock. Naughty perhaps, but it was a Sunday and the bike dealers were shut. It hasn't come undone.

Good tips - many thanks. Will check as you suggest when I put the FD back on tomorrow.

Also thanks for teaching me a new word. Brinelling. Lovely!

Kenny Rodkiss · Oct 10, 2019

Lateral play is controlled by the double row ball race on the opposite side to the needle bearing.&#55357;&#56615;&#55357;&#56615;

adm1 · Oct 11, 2019

Right then, I put the final drive back on this evening. Checked for free play after torquing to spec and there was none.

Stuck the brake calliper back on with new brake pads and installed the speed sensor.

That's as far as I can go until the rear shock comes back, hopefully early next week.

Then it'll be a matter of an hour to get the last bits back together and go see how it rides.

Pukmeister · Oct 12, 2019

Kenny Rodkiss said:
Lateral play is controlled by the double row ball race on the opposite side to the needle bearing.��

Which is why I replaced both the trunnion both sides on mine to eliminate the small amount of play present. It doesn't matter which side the play exists, at the end of the day there shouldn't be any and a few thou at the knuckle feels a lot worse at the tyre.

crawling finn · Oct 13, 2019

That fibre washer is a separate part. Looking at the receipt of when I ordered the parts for my recent rear end refurb it has Stock Code 33117684996 which could be the part number... It cost £2 and is called shim, for some reason.

gazza12adv · Oct 14, 2019

Steptoe said:
Here you go

crawling finn said:
That fibre washer is a separate part. Looking at the receipt of when I ordered the parts for my recent rear end refurb it has Stock Code 33117684996 which could be the part number... It cost £2 and is called shim, for some reason.

So it is.

adm1 · Oct 14, 2019

Denz0 has finished rebuilding my shock and it should be on the way back to me tomorrow. Looking forward to testing it out. Here's a few pics - it definitely looks like it was due the rebuild!

Before.....

And after!

Denz0 has added a 6mm shim which should result in a 15-17mm lowering for the bike, and also put in a new, somewhat stiffer spring to give less sag and compensate for the lower shock.

NicD · Oct 14, 2019

State of the shock doesn't seem consistent with the photos of the rest of the bike which looked really good

Also, if lowering the rear end, are you adjusting the front end? geometry will change slightly and reduce weight on front end. Might feel diff esp if luggage

adm1 · Oct 15, 2019

NicD said:
State of the shock doesn't seem consistent with the photos of the rest of the bike which looked really good

Also, if lowering the rear end, are you adjusting the front end? geometry will change slightly and reduce weight on front end. Might feel diff esp if luggage

I know....mind you, when I bought the bike the rust on the shock spring and the split gaiter were really the only things that jumped out at me. But after the mileage equivalent of more than twice around the world I'm not surprised it needed some TLC.

On the front end, when I get around to doing that I will probably have Luke rebuild the front shock as well and adjust it accordingly. Front end will be next on the list for a good going over as I have already done the engine and back end.

adm1 · Oct 17, 2019

The rear shock came back from Luke yesterday (and looks almost brand new). So I got it on and threw all the rest of the bits back on as well. So it's basically mission accomplished. Gearbox gaiter replaced, but also a complete back end overhaul at the same time.

It was quite easy and enjoyable all in all and now I know a lot more about this bike! All that really remains to do is finish off ACF'ing the rest of the bike and then go out and ride it.

Oh yeah. I need to put the screen back on as well.....

Gearbox Gaiter Replacement (and rear disk while we are at it!)

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