I realise that kwallace21 is now sorted and that this is an old thread, but for anyone else wishing to remove the locking pin on lock barrels that are supplied from the factory it is worth looking at
this thread in which steadysteve gave me lots of great info with pictures (to which I've added to) on how to do this.
I did ask that the thread above be moved from the 'Wanted' section to somewhere more relevant (when it turned from a 'Wanted' thread to a 'How to' one), but I was advised there were already sufficient threads addressing this problem. I'm sure there are, but I could only find this thread which discusses the issue of removing the factory fitted locking pin that is fitted to some locks, and
another that touches on the locking pins.
I have more info to share and rather than put them on my original thread (which is in a non-relevant section) I thought I add my comments to the end of this thread.
I successfully removed my locking pins and subsequently re-coded all 8 of my locks. However, when I came to fit them I found I had an issue. There is a raised area on the body of the lock, just behind the chrome cap, this is on the same side as the locking wafer (see first picture below, blue arrow points to the raised area I refer to). This raised area allows the barrel to only rotate through the 90 degrees from locked to unlocked positions.
(On lock barrels that are supplied for the user to re-code this raised area is on the other side of the lock barrel (i.e. 180 degrees).)
As a result, when the barrel is in the unlocked position there is nothing to hold the locking wafer in position and it could vibrate out and then the lock barrel could also fall out (see my second picture). In the picture you can see there is nothing to stop the locking wafer sliding out. Looking at the lock from the rear, in the locked position this locking wafer will be in a position 90 degrees anticlockwise from where it is shown, in the locked position it is held in place by the raised plastic surround of the lock housing.
On lock barrels that can be re-coded the locking wafer will be 180 degrees round from where it is shown in my picture (because the raised area will be on the opposite side of barrel) and held in place by the raised plastic surround, when moved through 90 degrees to the locked position it is still behind the plastic surround but it can be seen and accessed to remove the barrel. Therefore, these barrels are securely held in place, there is no way the locking wafer can fall out.
It is possible that with barrels such as mine the wafer would not spring out, but I wasn't prepared to risk it.
Fortunately, I had kept all 8 factory fitted locking pins so I decided to strip the barrels down again and refit the pins. These pins securely hold the locking wafer in place so it can't fall out.
It was fairly straight forward to do. As I'd already removed the pins I knew what I was doing and the refitting process was much quicker, but it still took most of the day, taking about a half to 3/4 hour per lock. (On the ones that took longer I'd re-secured the cap too well making it much harder to remove!
)
If I ever change bikes and want to re-code these barrels again I'd probably just buy a new set of 8 re-codeable ones (at a cost of about £180 from BMW, or there's a seller on eBay selling rip off locks for about £120).
Note, in this post I am referring to locks for aluminium luggage from a 2014 LC GSA, the problem of the locking wafer not being secure may not be an issue with other luggage.
