Cleaning my 1250

jimupahill

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Just got a 1250. It looks like it's going to be even more difficult than my old GSA TC to clean. At the risk of starting a never ending thread anyone got any recommends for cleaning/caring for the bike? A thread I read recommended 'Mother Mag & Aluminium Polish' https://motherscarcare.co.uk/shop/mothers-mag-aluminium-polish/
In the past I've always been a bucket of warm soapy water and a chamois leather kind of owner but I'd like to do a bit better with this bike and look after it better.
 
Sun, bottle of beer, shirt off.

Take your time, and enjoy it ....

<a href="https://gileslamb.smugmug.com/790/i-fz978gj/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/790/i-fz978gj/0/834244db/L/IMG_6111-L.jpg" alt=""></a>
 
1. sdoc100 motorcycle cleaner,
2 meguiars gold class car wash shampoo,
3. Autoglym AG Intensive Tar Remover.
4. solvol autosol metal polish,
5. Autoglym Super Resin Polish,
6. WD 40.
In that order, nowt else except hot water and soft cloths.

Alan R
 
I'm also using the power washer only, in combination with a foam lance.

First i use a degreasing agent foam, and degrease the lower part of the bike, such as the wheels, engine and mufler.
After a few minutes of allowing the degreaser to work, I then cover the entire bike with a soap agent foam, and this includes spraying the soap on top of the degreaser as well.
After a few more minutes i wash it all of, setting the power washer to a moderate pressure, and I am very particular about avoiding spraying the wheel
bearings and other sealed places.

I have done this for years, and have never had any problems by using the power washer.
 
1. Sdoc 100 on the engine and metal bits, also windscreen and mirror housing if covered in death
2. Snow foam
3. Go over it with a sponge (one of those weird ones with all the wriggly bits)
4. Rinse the whole lot with the power washer
5. Dry off with some microfibre cloths and a pet drier

20 minutes - Done. Bikes are for riding.
 
To prevent corrosion BMW recommend a mixture of pure Bavarian Alpine water and virgins tears
 
For years it's been just one old cotton tshirt and WD40 sprayed on rags made of that tshirt. Nothing else. Even with chain bikes where rear wheel gets coated with hard dirty oil, just one wipe and it's off. 1/4 of spray bottle of WD40 and half of old tshirt and bike looks like new.
Ah, and spray on cotton rag, not directly on the bike.
As for the rest, twice a year watter and soap, as I live in dry climate.
 
I fancy this could turn into a long thread, but here's my tuppence worth, trying to keep it to a minimum.

Minimum recommended gear is:
-Hose
-2 buckets
-Shampoo
-x2 mitts
-Wheel cleaner
-Tar remover
-Wax
-Detailer
-Wheel sealant
-Microfibres - get decent ones that don't lint up and are rough as old dishcloths

I'd recommend visiting a number of detailing sites, to see if you can order from one place. Chances are if it's on a detailing site if will be at least an okay product (see mentions below)

1.Hose or jet wash down, obviously being careful with the pressure. Cover tach/nav with plastic bag.

2. If there is one and only one golden rule for washing vehicles, it's the two bucket method. One bucket for suds and one bucket for (frequent) rinsing. This will stop you from transferring the dirt you’ve removed back on to where you have cleaned, and also gets you into the practice of rinsing your mitt/microfiber sponge. This is where most scratches get put into vehicle finishes.

e.g. https://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/uf/ultimate-finish-wash-and-rinse-two-bucket-set.aspx

I tend to use two lambswool mitts or microfibre sponges, using one for the paint parts the other for the more mechanical parts. For tight areas I use these cheap as chip sponges

https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Uteruik-...Mitt+Glove&qid=1610745249&s=automotive&sr=1-1

Plenty of shampoos out there, but fwiw I'm a long time user of Banana Gloss from Autobrite.

3. Hose off.

4. Usually there should be no need to use any chemicals other than shampoo. But if you're been letting your baby suffer, then having wheel cleaner and tar removers in your armoury is helpful. The most important thing is to follow the instructions to the T - dilute as instructed and never leave to dry. You'll want an empty sprayer.

You can get all of these things from the number of online car detailing sites: Polished Bliss (and its sister site, Clean Your Car), Ultimate Finish, Autobrte, Sams Detailing etc.

I use Autofinnese wheel cleaner and its tar remover (obitarte).

5. Ideally, you'll have some small brushes for engine fins, hard to reach places etc. Better to buy quality than have them fall apart of scratch your beauty. Again, from detailing sites.

6. Exhaust. Autosol seems to work where others struggle. If going the extra mile by adding a protectant - FinishKare 1000P Hi-Temp Sealant

7. Finish. With respect to Alan, above, sometimes there is the confusion of Polish and Glazes with wax. Any car product for paint etc that says polish means it contains micro-cutting agents to cut the clearcoat to remove scratches. Sometimes 'glazes' or resins are added which help reduce the sight of scratches by temporarily filling these. Autogym Resin Polish does both, and is designed for older cars. On a new bike this should not necessary, simply use wax.

Any wax will do, quite frankly, but the basic law is the longer lasting the wax the duller, the shorter the life, the shinner. Quite liking poorboys liquid Butterwax at the mo. Super easy to apply, shiny, with suprising lasting results even after a wash.

I also use Poorboys wheel sealant - easy to apply, shines wheel, provides a limited amount of attention.

8. On other areas of the bike, including windshield and other plastics and metals, use a detailer spray - I like Autoglym's Rapid Detailer

8. Obviously you'll want a bunch of microfibres. This could be a subject in itself but in short, you'll want some short-nap 'polish' cloths for more mechanical areas and some longer-nap cloths for removing wax.

You don't need stuff like muc off.
 
What is this ‘cleaning’ you speak of?


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If its got the black engine don't clean it unless the engine is cold or you'll get waterspots. Avoid alkaline cleaning products. I use a ph neutral trf followed by normal car shampoo rinsing between anfd after with a jetwash then drying with a £60 pet dryer off ebay. I also protect it after with fs365. Normal car spray sealents work well on the paintwork and plastics.

Get some clear film tank protection from nippy normans too:beerjug:
 
+1 for vulcanette wipes. Use them all the time, even after a proper wash, after blowing the water off with a compressor. Thinking of buying a Bruhl blower. I use only a low pressure jet wash, a sheepskin mitt with Stardrops and a small EZ detail brush if it needs a proper wash.

Trouble with this bike is all the little nooks and crannies where the water wells, if the water has all the crap from the road in it, it'll likely cause some corrosion in the long run.

These bikes are meant to get sh1tted up, but I like to keep that sh1t to only one layer, so I normally clean it the day after a ride.
 
Cover with diluted TFL. Wash with meguiars car shampoo and a mitt. Jet wash off and dry with Bruhl dryer which are brilliant. Then a coat of silicon spray on the bodywork and WD40 on the engine when cold.


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+1 for vulcanette wipes. Use them all the time, even after a proper wash, after blowing the water off with a compressor. Thinking of buying a Bruhl blower. I use only a low pressure jet wash, a sheepskin mitt with Stardrops and a small EZ detail brush if it needs a proper wash.

Trouble with this bike is all the little nooks and crannies where the water wells, if the water has all the crap from the road in it, it'll likely cause some corrosion in the long run.

These bikes are meant to get sh1tted up, but I like to keep that sh1t to only one layer, so I normally clean it the day after a ride.

I bought this one. Brilliant and very powerful.

https://www.nippynormans.com/r1150gs-and-adventure/bruhl-md1900-motorcycle-dryer


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MetroVac Air Force Blaster, motorcycle blower. Fantastic and wish I had purchased years ago. So good at getting all the water out of those small areas. Also just fitted a Mudsling. What a difference they make.
 
I saw that, but they're out of stock.

It's a bit working to be honest :rolleyes: I've just tried to back order one from SBS and found that I already did it........last Tuesday. :help
 
I use a pet dryer, bought from ebay. Works a treat to get all the water from those hard to reach nooks and crannies.
 
Is a 1400w going to make much difference against a 1900? Also, plenty of other car/mc driers out there if you look through the detailing sites. I wouldn't be thinking about buying a bigger one to also use on the car, as any of the non-professional dyers aren't fit for use on cars other than, for example, doing engine bays and maybe wheels.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/303134168955?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28
 


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