Cleaning my 1250

rovert57 said:

Just had a look on eBay and seems like they have twigged as the pet dryers are rising in price

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Rowle said:

i also have one of these for £20 new - they might suit you better.?
To be honest i don't always dry the bike after a wash - just ride it dry !!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universa...hDarwoV3BBEV2b&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

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yofi said:

I fancy this could turn into a long thread, but here's my tuppence worth, trying to keep it to a minimum.

Minimum recommended gear is:
-Hose
-2 buckets
-Shampoo
-x2 mitts
-Wheel cleaner
-Tar remover
-Wax
-Detailer
-Wheel sealant
-Microfibres - get decent ones that don't lint up and are rough as old dishcloths

I'd recommend visiting a number of detailing sites, to see if you can order from one place. Chances are if it's on a detailing site if will be at least an okay product (see mentions below)

1.Hose or jet wash down, obviously being careful with the pressure. Cover tach/nav with plastic bag.

2. If there is one and only one golden rule for washing vehicles, it's the two bucket method. One bucket for suds and one bucket for (frequent) rinsing. This will stop you from transferring the dirt you’ve removed back on to where you have cleaned, and also gets you into the practice of rinsing your mitt/microfiber sponge. This is where most scratches get put into vehicle finishes.

e.g. https://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/uf/ultimate-finish-wash-and-rinse-two-bucket-set.aspx

I tend to use two lambswool mitts or microfibre sponges, using one for the paint parts the other for the more mechanical parts. For tight areas I use these cheap as chip sponges

https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Uteruik-...Mitt+Glove&qid=1610745249&s=automotive&sr=1-1

Plenty of shampoos out there, but fwiw I'm a long time user of Banana Gloss from Autobrite.

3. Hose off.

4. Usually there should be no need to use any chemicals other than shampoo. But if you're been letting your baby suffer, then having wheel cleaner and tar removers in your armoury is helpful. The most important thing is to follow the instructions to the T - dilute as instructed and never leave to dry. You'll want an empty sprayer.

You can get all of these things from the number of online car detailing sites: Polished Bliss (and its sister site, Clean Your Car), Ultimate Finish, Autobrte, Sams Detailing etc.

I use Autofinnese wheel cleaner and its tar remover (obitarte).

5. Ideally, you'll have some small brushes for engine fins, hard to reach places etc. Better to buy quality than have them fall apart of scratch your beauty. Again, from detailing sites.

6. Exhaust. Autosol seems to work where others struggle. If going the extra mile by adding a protectant - FinishKare 1000P Hi-Temp Sealant

7. Finish. With respect to Alan, above, sometimes there is the confusion of Polish and Glazes with wax. Any car product for paint etc that says polish means it contains micro-cutting agents to cut the clearcoat to remove scratches. Sometimes 'glazes' or resins are added which help reduce the sight of scratches by temporarily filling these. Autogym Resin Polish does both, and is designed for older cars. On a new bike this should not necessary, simply use wax.

Any wax will do, quite frankly, but the basic law is the longer lasting the wax the duller, the shorter the life, the shinner. Quite liking poorboys liquid Butterwax at the mo. Super easy to apply, shiny, with suprising lasting results even after a wash.

I also use Poorboys wheel sealant - easy to apply, shines wheel, provides a limited amount of attention.

8. On other areas of the bike, including windshield and other plastics and metals, use a detailer spray - I like Autoglym's Rapid Detailer

8. Obviously you'll want a bunch of microfibres. This could be a subject in itself but in short, you'll want some short-nap 'polish' cloths for more mechanical areas and some longer-nap cloths for removing wax.

You don't need stuff like muc off.

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yofi said:

I also use filtered water resin chamber, but thought it wouldn't be wise to share that here...
.

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yofi said:

Ah, at least I have someone to share the beating with...

ps - I'd say priceless for a black car!

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yofi said:

Ah, at least I have someone to share the beating with...

ps - I'd say priceless for a black car!

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developer said:

Excellent bits of kit - but it's not until you've tried one that you realise how excellent

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autogs said:

how long does the resin last in that unit please?

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autogs said:

i mentioned these a while ago re are they any good and wapping and a couple of others rushed in taking the piss (as usual)

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yofi said:

If you are going to use a ceramic top-up or wax each time you wash then there's no point, as these will remove the spots. So it's more an in-between application finish device.

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yofi said:

Yup, I also had crystal serum light plus x2 exo, and it is superb for the first couple of years. I have found however that when you get into year 3, even with using a top-up like Cure that you're at the end of things. I've recently moved away from Cure to liquid wax. But for sure, nothing like a professionally detailed, ceramic coated car. My mineral grey m240i looked danged when it was done, especially when the shade caught it in a certain way.

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