1992 R80GS Refresh

King Rat said:
Coming along nicely.

Which is your deep sump then? If it doesn't have a sump plug, how are you expected to change the oil? Mine has a sump plug. I can't believe they don't. Could it be an easy fix, by drilling, tapping and putting a sump plug in? Motorworks/Bins sell sump plugs with a magnet in the middle. Thread the drilled hole to suit.

Just an idea. :beerjug:
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My sump extension is designed to be used with the existing OEM sump so you drain the oil through the drain plug in that , but as you have said if I wanted to bolt a bash plate direct to the sump extension and omit the OEM sump I would need to drill a drain hole in the extension piece assuming there was enough material to drill and tap into

Looking at the picture of your bike it looks like you have a similar set up with the existing OEM sump and a sump extension piece

c5fe9f2b075d2bcbc13f4d2a42d087c5.jpg


https://www.teilehorbank.de/en/bmw-...uer-Oelwanne-oil-pan-distance-ring_18416.html

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As I understand this gives 0.6 litres of extra oil capacity vs the 1.3 litre increase when using a spacing ring with the OEM sump . As I had already bought the sump extension I have gone with my existing set up but with a G/S sump guard
 
ChasF said:
I agree with PP that both the sump extension and oil cooler is way over the top and as you’ve spotted the bottom of the sump is now much lower making it very exposed to damage if you were ever to venture off tarmac. The OE sump guard is virtually useless anyway and is probably likely to cause more damage being bolted directly to the sump. The Siebenrock sump ring is probably a reasonable compromise in terms of providing extra oil capacity and some protection

0824863ab6bee50696f64802cf502de0.jpg

I took the oil cooler off my 100GS for our African travels although I’ve now refitted it. I was advised that the exposed pipes could be damaged and make the bike unrideable so these days I carry the bypass pipe in the tool kit. Removing the cooler didn’t seem to cause any problems even in hot climates and heavily laden
Click to expand...


As I understand this gives 0.6 litres of extra oil capacity vs the 1.3 litre increase when using a spacing ring with the OEM sump . As I had already bought the sump extension I have gone with my existing set up but with a G/S sump guard
 
I fitted one of these to my GS. +1.2l and a spin-on filter. Deleted the oil cooler.
 

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Posh Pete said:
Now that’s interesting. Source for that please? And how does it work re oil circulation? :nenau:
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I would say if you intend doing any gravel roads Give this a miss the oil filter is in direct line behind the wheel spraying all sorts at it ;)

To delete the oil cooler you remove the long oil filter spigot and fit a short oil filter spigot and a non oil cooler Filter cover
 
Yup. I removed the cooler on my 100RS and it was straightforward. Just wondering about the fluid mechanics of that spin on filter.
 
Posh Pete said:
Now that’s interesting. Source for that please? And how does it work re oil circulation? :nenau:
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One of these: karterpanvergroting-25-mm-met-extern-oliefilter-1

The oil filter tube has to be removed from the motor and this unit plugs into the recess where the old filter seated. It is then re-routed to the spin-on. The casting also has drillings to connect an oil cooler. Not needed, imho.

To protect the filter, I modified one of those big crud-catcher guards. I would have preferred a frame mounting for it though.
 

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Posh Pete said:
Yup. I removed the cooler on my 100RS and it was straightforward. Just wondering about the fluid mechanics of that spin on filter.
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We used to do something similar for the aircooled VW'S years ago - only problem was that it was in the pressurised flow path before reaching the oil pressure relief valve. More than once I witnessed the seal give way when over-revving a cold engine, including once with a competitor on a turbocharged buggy engine when demonstrating at an event...
 
Redboots you need to ckeck your oil pressure with a gauge after fitting the spin on filter kit. draw your own conclusion, but i wound not use one.
 
richie moore said:
Redboots you need to ckeck your oil pressure with a gauge after fitting the spin on filter kit. draw your own conclusion, but i wound not use one.
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The pressure was tested when it was fitted - 2012. I cant remember what it was, but it was good.
I sold the bike 2 years ago.
 
Back to the rebuild thread.....

Drive shaft , swinging arm , final drive and new Wilbers shock fitted





Rear wheel back on but some further fettling required to get brake shoes and brake drum to run freely



Front Wheel , new brake disc and rebuilt caliper fitted



So at last back to a rolling chassis



 
So the issue of the rear brake shoes and wheel drum rubbing , therefore not turning freely was on the cards this morning to get sorted

I blued up the shoes and refitted the wheel , spun it a dozen times and removed it and not a single rub mark to be seen on the shoes .....however the anti squeal rubber on the lower spring had a noticeable rub mark on it





From that I had to assume that the shoes were going too far into the drum

When I originally removed the wheel there was no spacer shim fitted between the wheel and the final drive hub

However on fitting one I had off a K1100RS (with the same 4 hole pattern) it immediately resolved the rubbing issue and the wheel spins freely without any noise

Refitted the brake pedal and cable and adjusted the brake arm so it is at 90 degrees at the point of the brake biting and all is now well and the brake works great

Now onto bleeding the front brake...
 
barny said:
Are the springs on the right side of the shoe?
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I think you are correct , the springs should be inboard hence why the rubber piece was catching and there was no wheel spacer originally - thanks for putting me right ;-)


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nicholsonj2252 said:
So my understanding is the oil cooler is for cooling the oil and the sump extension is for giving extra oil capacity hence why I’ve fitted both - happy to be told I’m wrong as I’m new to these Airheads lol
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In Moto Guzzi world sump extensions are quite common on the old big block engines (850/1000's). They most definitely are not for extra oil capacity though. They are there to provide a drop in sump pressure (what's the correct term?) and to aid cooling if needed.

Are they used for extra capacity on BM's then?

Andres
 
More oil in the system will mean that the oil will run cooler, which is a good thing? You can also fit a thermostat to control the flow through the oil cooler to ensure the oil is hot enough! I don’t think excess crankcase pressure which can lead oil leaks is too much of an issue with airheads although someone may know otherwise.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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