JohnGS1100 Tuning Chip

Help please, just received John chip but don't know where it goes, hoping it would be obvious but alas not. Does it fit in here somewhere. All advice gratefully appreciated. :bow
 
Yes, maybe there is a minimum time difference, but not caused by Motronic, but caused the speed of the ignition coils (primary and secondary).
The primary ignition coils are closer to the spark plugs.. it is reasonable to cause rapid ignition. All this function is only for emission standard, not for improve, there is the same power between single and twin sparks models. The twin sparks makes more dispersed flame so it does not leave any residue (CO) of combustion.
This also helps the economy consumptions but only at the first 20-40 k miles.. However the external (secondary) coils are preferably, these are more durable and keep stable performance for more miles. These are under tank, no water, cold away from sparks. Τhe primary coils are vulnerable and lose performance in fewer miles..
Good idea, but the implementation has problems durability at time.
This is seen in many car models, "ignition coils closer to the Sparks", these car's have many problems (VW-Audi, Skoda), much to replace the ignition coils after 60-80k miles.

Got it. I can understand that both plugs are timed the same and that emissions are a factor in the secondary existance. It is also well know that the dual-spark versions suffer less from surging and other driveability problems.

The second thing I was comment on was the difference in timing map between a single-spark map and a dual spark map. With two plugs firing in a cylinder, the time from ignition to peak pressure in the cylinder is less. The flame front proceeds from two points and burns the mixture faster. As a result, spark-advance for the dual-spark will be less at all points in the map than the single-spark.
 
Help please, just received John chip but don't know where it goes, hoping it would be obvious but alas not. Does it fit in here somewhere. All advice gratefully appreciated. :bow

In here you'll need the correct torx tool.
 

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1. Unscrew the four mounting screws that hold the ECU. (the screw from blades that hold the ecu not the screw from lid of ECU).

2. Take out the ECU from bike. (by holding and pressing small blade at the connector cable pull out the connector cable).

Now you have the ECU on your hands.

3. Unscrew the 4 torx screws (lid - at the corners of ECU).

4. Pull the lid of ECU. (Do this by the help of two screwdrivers opened slowly around and around so that dislodged the lid, there is an original packages from the factory, is a bit difficult to get the lid for the first time).

No you see this photo :

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4. Take out the old chip by the help of one little screwdriver. (put and pull by screwdriver down in two successive edges of the chip and lifted it up to come out slowly from its base).

Note that the chip has a small notch in one end. the base the chip is placed, has too a notch.
This shows the direction of the chip when placed again in order not placed upside down.

5. Fit the new chip (notch of chip must be at the same direction by notch of base). Be sure to get in on all the terminals in to base.

After this, take a look around of chip, the terminals must be all into the holes of base.

That's it.

Put the lid, fit the ECU back on bike, fit the tank and start the engine.


If you done something wrong the engine just no start. Check the entire placement process, the chip may be misplaced. Do not worry about any wrong installation, simply the sngine will not start, and Re-fit correctly, and start the engine again.
It does not destroy anything, not a problem of an incorrect installation.

If you have done wrong fitting (the engine doesn't start), after correct fitting of chip, take out the fuse 5 for few seconds (The ECU must be connected on bike). This function makes a reset to ECU, so is ready to new start.

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This function you can do too after correct fitting. Called zero-zero you can read complete about at this topic.
 
If like to add that when separating the motronic casing, the silicone is very sticky. Prise it from the end the multipin connector connects into. It's white on mine.

Be careful of your fingertips! I caught mine and it was mighty sore!
 
Oh.. my wife climbs astride my r1100gs only if i drive less than 55 miles per hour.

This is my wife, very pretty but it's very hard to live with her.. :weights

If you develop a chip for these too i'd test one if it works with these what we have here upnorth.
 
If you develop a chip for these too i'd test one if it works with these what we have here upnorth.


8 years of scientific research, the only thing that was able to grow changed strong intensity voice heard like a quartet free exhaust. :shout:bash:blagblah :jibber
 
Fitted the chip John sent me today but it didn't work?? Fuel pump was continuously priming and bike wouldn't start. Refitted the original chip and all ok. Fitted John's again but had same problem, refitted original - all Ok. I've dropped John a line with my findings. Anyone else had the same? Bike is a 2000 R1150GS, single spark, cat, lambda and stubby.

Mick


Tried two more chips today and both did exactly the same i.e. fuel pump constantly priming and bike not starting. Refitted original and thankfully all Ok.
Any ideas, John?

Mick

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I send to you new. I had a problem with my eprom writer, i have a new one (eprom writer now) and it's all rigth now. Send me your address please again via pm. Thanks.
 
Chip is amazing at low city revs. It rides at low revs/speed with more punch.

Also engine braking is more pronounced.

I'm still awaiting a refill for mpg reading in city traffic. I was getting about 37mpg. I'm hoping for 50-60 mpg but I will keep you all informed.

John, are you suggesting in your previous reply to me that the 850 is the best engine?!!
 
Your consumption in city will be much better now. You can drive by a gear up, has more torque at very low rpms.

Yes i believe the 850R is simply the best boxer engine for economy and power.
By better camshaft and system exhaust will work like a sport engine at high revs of rpms.
I want make my engine from 1100 down to 850, by camshafts i think that have 80-85 Hp at 7.800 rpm and the consumption by chip will be 4-5 L/100 km (47-58 mpg)..
 
Yes. A lot of torque at low rpm. Quite surprising in fact.

Your fuel consumption figures match my real world experience last week.

Also, at high rpm it no longer feels asthmatic. It just wants to ride. Brilliant.

Yeehah!
 
Also note, if you want more better consumption, you can fit a final drive from R1100. Now you have more torque for using long final drive.
You can use this long final drive to travel long journeys, you will drive 80-90 miles/hour by by 3.500-4.000 rpm, 55 mpg. Just for knowable.. :)
 
Can you send an eBay link? I went to buy one and the link I had has run out and no more in "sellers other items"
 


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