Went for a ride over the weekend - Calais / Vimy Ridge

I think it all started as just started as a friend’s ( Fatpan ) idea to have a small reconnaissance run, ahead of a lager France ride in early May but somehow it just grew.

Whatever the reasons, several assorted bikes gathered at the Eurotunnel entrance, missing only one thing....the trip leader.

Lacking any knowledge of his whereabouts, we opted to get on the pre-agreed train and just go.





Just as this was decided, a message came across the ether that tour leader and his companions would meet us at the Texaco filling station, right on the exit road in France.

This bit of news we translated as, “We are on an earlier train”. Odd and (as it transpires) totally wrong. Anyway, through the tunnel we trundled and rode the short hop to the petrol station, to be greeted by an empty forecourt. No sign of Monsieur Fatpan and party at all.

Eventually though they did hove into view, sheepishly admitting that they had cocked-up. It seems that Fatpan (and chums) had arrived so early at the train that they had decided to enjoy a relaxed coffee. So relaxed in fact that, when they woke up, train G had departed and train J was being called!

But, at last we were all together, and off we set on Fatpan’s ride. What a good time we had, carving a broad circle around the lanes and country roads of the Pas-de-Calais. I am the first to confess that – though I am a regular traveller across the water - I have always seen that part of France as a blur of flat nothingness as I hotfoot down the motorway. How wrong I have been. OK it’s not the Alps, nor is it totally crammed full of bend swinging like other parts of France, but for a day’s fun it’s worth the trip.

Fatpan had worked out a route that took us down country lanes and even up some reasonable hills (certainly not as flat as Essex) – for a mid-morning coffee stop in Cassel.....





.....and then continuing on, ending up in Le Touquet for a good lunch on the sea front.












After lunch, by now mid afternoon, the party divided up. Half to return home, whilst seven of us headed off to St Omer, to spend the night, ahead of Sunday.

St Omer is certainly a good stopover spot, if anyone wants to do anything similar, with a good choice of hotels, bars and restaurants to chose from, all gathered around the town square.















Having depleted the town’s beer cellars and had an excellent meal, it was off to bed ahead of Sunday.

Being a day of rest and meditation, we did our bit by breakfasting at around 9:00, during which we decided to take a vaguely scenic route down to Arras and Vimy Ridge, the infamous killing ground of 1917.





For anyone who has not been, I would certainly recommend a visit.

The ridge dominates the surrounding country being held by the Germans since very early in the war, giving them virtual domination of the lower countryside around. The crest was heavily fortified, with trenches, machine guns, artillery positions and several huge underground bunkers, each capable of holding a full battalion of men. The task of taking the impregnable defences was assigned to the Canadian army, who launched a devastating attack over several days, assisted by (I learned) a host of Moroccans, fighting as irregular troops on behalf of the French.





The slaughter on both sides was immense, the ridge being a charnel house already after years of fighting. The Canadians though won the day but, at a huge cost, particularly to the Newfoundland regiment who were all but totally destroyed in the course of a few hours.

It is said – and I have no reason to doubt it – that the battle and slaughter of so many young Canadian men, thousands of miles from home- marked Canada’s defining moment as a new nation in its own right.

The site is now preserved as a monument and memorial to the fallen Canadians, from that immense battle and as a war grave to the thousands of their comrades that fell over the course of the Great War.

The memorial is immense and a stunning piece of art in its own right, towering above the ridge, dominating the land, visible over 30 kms away.





































We were lucky to have seen the memorial so soon after its complete restoration, finished only last year. The Canadian government has funded a huge drive to restore all the many grave sites and monuments that commemorate fallen Canadians and others over the Flanders area.
















That we were, by chance, there on April 13th, near enough on the 91st anniversary of the main battle, made it very poignant.




The ridge top is still littered with unspent armament, from four years of fighting, with large areas closed off from public access.








The old trench system can still be seen though, being remodelled in parts to give a visitor some small idea of its scale.










Still very obvious too are the five huge craters left behind from underground mines that were exploded, beneath the German positions, following months of dangerous tunnelling. The photograph does not give a good idea of the crater’s depth or width.





The tunnels themselves are also open to the public but not until, 1st May.






Should you get the chance, do take some time out to see the site

The visit having been made it was a then just short hop into Arras for a very late snack.






Followed by a quick run up the motorway, the Chunnel train again and home.






A great 36 hours away. 450 miles or thereabouts.



Give it a go, you won’t be disappointed.


(Route plan to follow)

Circular route plan

Garmin file

seems like you had a great time.

have visited the area myself and like you would recommend the trip to anyone.

facinating place but very humbling and very sad.

Thanks for the write up

Nice report Wapping, thanks

Isn't it nice to come across signs like this

The memorial at Vimy is quite probably the most impressive of all the Great War structures. Looks like I'll have to go back now that it's been restored to its former glory.

Thanks.

Yes, I've also been to all of these places and Vimy Ridge is a very sobering place. What a sacrifice. Thanks for the report and excellent pictures BTW.

Cheers for that

I visited Vimy with my brother in 2006 whilst the monument was undergoing its restoration. The guided tour into the tunnels and the visitor centre were both well worth a look.

Its interesting to see that amongst all the canadians grave stones there are a number of stones commemorating yorkshire regiment soldiers. My theory is that they were "miners" doing the digging under the german positions.

Thanks for sharing, Richard. Interesting and still eerily disturbing.

You guys that live down south are very fortunate to live so close to the tunnel for these quick weekend jaunts.

Sobering report and pic's

spot said:

Its interesting to see that amongst all the canadians grave stones there are a number of stones commemorating yorkshire regiment soldiers. My theory is that they were "miners" doing the digging under the german positions.

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You may well, in part, be right. Miners were formed into engineering battalions, one of the most dangerous jobs around.

The graveyard we visited (just one of several around the ridge) had graves from all over the United Kingdom, Ireland, South Africa, Australia, NZ and, of course Canada. There were Royal Marine graves and even one Naval grave, too.

The earliest grave I saw was from 1914, I guess from one of the original BEF and for every year until 1918. Here's a picture. Britain declared war against Germany on the 4th August 1914, so Sergeant Boon of the King's Own Yorkshire Light Infantry did not live to see to much of it, being killed in the middle of October, just over two months later.



The geographical spread and, of course, the regimental names - many drawn from counties or along trades - showed the true nature of human cost, with few areas (if any) untouched.

That being said, I didn't find it a sad place; more sobering, perhaps? Of course the men (boys) were often young but that's who does the fighting.

I could think of worse places to laid to rest, even in an 'unknown' grave, surrounded by comrades, remembered and painstakingly looked after, after 100 years.

spot said:

Its interesting to see that amongst all the canadians grave stones there are a number of stones commemorating yorkshire regiment soldiers. My theory is that they were "miners" doing the digging under the german positions.

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There were some mines dug under the German positions for detonation on 9th April.

One of the things about Arras is that there are natural caves in the area. these have been used by the people of Arras in times of war as shelters.

Part of the plan for the Battle of Arras 1917, was that the caves were extended to use as forming-up areas for the assault battalions.

Tunnels were also extended to permit movement under cover from view and fire.

Most of the tunnelling was done by units specially recruited from British Mineworkers. These units were highly regarded by all who saw their work and especially the conditions.

Popeye said:

Thanks for sharing, Richard. Interesting and still eerily disturbing.

You guys that live down south are very fortunate to live so close to the tunnel for these quick weekend jaunts.

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I was just thinking about that little quirk of geography as I rolled off the train...spoilt really.

MikeP said:

There were some mines dug under the German positions for detonation on 9th April.

One of the things about Arras is that there are natural caves in the area. these have been used by the people of Arras in times of war as shelters.

Part of the plan for the Battle of Arras 1917, was that the caves were extended to use as forming-up areas for the assault battalions.

Tunnels were also extended to permit movement under cover from view and fire.

Most of the tunnelling was done by units specially recruited from British Mineworkers. These units were highly regarded by all who saw their work and especially the conditions.

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Mike's right with all the above.

Having looked again at the picture Sergeant Boon's grave I Googled up the history of the KOYLI and, amongst other bits, came up with:

12th (Service) Battalion (Miners) (Pioneers)

Formed in Leeds, 5 September 1914, by the West Yorkshire Coalowners Association.

I assume the 12th was one of the many 'Friends' or 'Pals' battalions, formed in patriotic fervour, leading to entire mining villages being devastated in a few months or years.

I have no way of knowing whether Sgt Boon was indeed a miner, at any time, but he would in all probability have known many.


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The little museum on the site tells much of the story, including that of the caves. A nice touch is that it is staffed by several French speaking Canadians.

It also explained that the Canadians had learned a lot, by 1917, about the importance of massing properly directed artillery fire and / or had 'invented' the very new tactic of using machine guns for harassment or distraction fire.

Thanks for the write up - what a beautiful monument the Canadians built at Vimy.

I've never been to any of the battle fields but you've inspired me. I will make a point of visiting there on my way back from the Alps in May.

Andres

Sergeant (to use the modern spelling) Boon was in 2nd Bn KOYLI.

2 KOYLI was in 13th Brigade, 5 Div.

2 KOYLI was involved in the Battle of Armentieres. 13 Oct-2 Nov 1914. This was part of the BEF action to recover ground lost in The Retreat to the Marne (after Mons and Le Cateau).

In WWI, there was massive recruitment. Regular Battalions of infantry regiments such as KOYLI kept their names, as did Territorial Battalions but with the advent of Kitchener's "New Army" these old regiments became swollen (to the point that my own regiment actually had nearly 80 battalions when affiliated 'family' battalions were included). Quite often these Kitchener battalions were formed for specific purposes such as miners or 'Bantams' (men considered too short or too slight a build) and were subtitled KOYLI etc. even though they may have been Service battalions.

Units such as the 12th KOYLI would have been recruited from miners to do a specific job.

These battalions were not Pals or Chums battalions. These had been decimated in the 1916 battles and the disadvantages of such formations were now known.

The miners would have been in specialist Tunnelling Battalions. Often they had next to no military training as they were never intended as 'line' formations.

It made sense at the time to attach such formations to old county regiments by name. It has also ensured that as regiments have been swallowed-up in ever more amalgamations, the unit histories are still recorded under the name of their 'parent' regiments.

Wapping said:

The little museum on the site tells much of the story, including that of the caves. A nice touch is that it is staffed by several French speaking Canadians.

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Some of whom have very nice bottoms!

It also explained that the Canadians had learned a lot, by 1917, about the importance of massing properly directed artillery fire and / or had 'invented' the very new tactic of using machine guns for harassment or distraction fire.

Click to expand...

Sorry for the hijack Richard but although the visitor centre there is very good, it is just a tad chauvinistic.

The Canadians didn't invent either of those tactics. Nor were they (as claimed) successful that day because of their "unique" rehearsals.

I understand why Vimy is special to Canada, it was the first time that the Canadian Corps fought together as a formation but all along the Arras front that day, the success was as spectacular as it was at Vimy and for exactly the same reasons: The lessons had been learned and learned well by British, Commonwealth and Empire forces.

From 1917 onwards the BEF became the most efficient and effective force in the field. By this time advances in artillery direction, infantry tactics and the use of armour in All-Arms tactics, plus the growing use of "bite and hold" operations instead of the "big push" mentality, was working.

Thanks, Mike, for filling in the gaps.

On refelcection, I take your point on the possibly chauvinistic appraoch of the museum. One of our party was a German lady. She thought it a pity, perhaps, that they didn't -in some small way - record the number of German dead.

This was not out of any misplaced German pride (WW2 and collective guilt, probably deals with that) but that the site (and others) makes a play at the usual, if a bit hand wringing....'War's a bad thing, we should all get on in the happy united EU / world'....



PS You are right, the Canadian guides were not too shabby.

Well Mike the prize of most uexpected picture to turn up in a thread is yours! "oops sorry pet, my camera just went off by itself!"

I`ve visited a good few of both WW1 & 2 battlefields in France and find them fascinating. I love military history and to have it so well preserved is fantastic.