Picos in the Fall - October 2008

JohnnyBoxer

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A month ago, I decided that a quick blast to Europe was in order to test my new steed.

So what were the options –

Hull to Zeebrugge – to expensive on ferry and maybe similar weather to UK

Dover – Calais – cheaper ferry, but been there and done that numerous times

Plymouth to Santander – YES! Cheaper ferry than Hull and weather should be better and cheaper fuel/living costs – that’s the one

So..............booked on the Friday and left on the Sunday to return the Thursday – perfect just enough leave !

I decided to go it alone, after a couple of mates dropped out – work and women trouble!

A solo trip can be most cathartic and allows you to please yourself and get to know a new bike at your own pace.

The ride to Plymouth was dry, but cold and very windy – the R1100RT performed at 90mph faultlessly.

Arriving at Plymouth there was plenty of likeminded bike tourists – mainly going to Maroc though (lucky souls)

The Brittany Ferry – Pont Aven was as good as ever and the crossing was calm

Cabins are compact, but clean and comfortable

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We were greeted by warm sun and blue skies

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The weather was 28c when we arrived in Santander – fab!

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So after exiting the city, I took the quieter coast road

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Towards Panes, through the Hermida Gorge

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..................to the capital of the Picos............... Potes

I had decided to base myself in the Picos, as I only had 3 days or so and I’ve been to the Picos before -3 or 4 times

I wanted to stay at a hotel recommended by Timolgra, the Hotel D’Oso @ Cosgaya on the road to Funte De, out of Potes

It is a superb hotel and being up in the mountains made a superb base for a few days

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Very cosy on autumnal October nights, in the Mountains

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Maybe in Summer..............!!

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Cosgaya is very sleepy and tranquil

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The next day cloudy but dry, but the low cloud soon enveloped the Mountains

I took a trip over to Riano in the Covadonga National Park, over the San Gloria Pass

This is the Bear trail on top of the San Gloria – 4 miles offroad back to Cosgaya, but 25 miles by road!

Darkhorse may recognise this trail – we rode it in 2006 on the Adv’s, getting stopped by a Park Ranger!


The mist soon comes down – there’s only about 3 mins between the 2 Pics!


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That night it snowed heavily in the Mountains, but next day the roads were ok.................

I went up to Sotres – a remote Mountain village

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On my return I stopped in Potes and met up with another GS’er – Neil 23 of this parish who’d done a tour of Spain

We had a few drinks and returned to our respective hotels, arranging to meet up next morning to ride the scenic route to the Ferry @ Santander

Next morning, after more snow the day dawned bright, cold and sunny


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The run down to Potes was great

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We met up and set off..................Homeward bound!

At the coast things got noticeably warmer and the scenery was just as good

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Another good short break for less than £500, covering 1200 miles and the 12 year old RT1100 performed faultlessly – who needs a new bike!
 
Sounds like you had better weather than we did when we went in June. Got to Hotel Del Oso in teaming rain and asked the (fantastic) owners when the sun was going to shine. They said it'd been raining most of the month and was forecast to carry on. They had no problems releasing us from the rest of our five day booking so we could head west to above Portugal. They were even apologetic.

Went back when the weather cleared. Owners once again very welcoming, wanted to know where we'd been, if we'd found the sun, had a good time etc. It's a terrific Hotel, made even better by it's owners and staff.

Last year we spent some time there and then headed to Cangas Del Narcea for a few days, which opened up a load more easily reachable routes. Some not as good as those near Potes, some better. Have some fond memories of finishing a fantastic day riding and being on such a high we all headed straight for the bar and the tables outside, still in riding gear, and were still there well into the night. One of those days.
 
Nice one Johnny. I was there in October and it was a bit chilly in the mornings but then brightened up with the afternoons definately the best part of the day. I didn't realise you had got yourself an RT, I really like these and great for eating up the miles. Tell us a bit more about how you found it???

AndyT:thumb2
 
Lovely to see those places again.:thumb2

Such a shame they've clamped down on the trails though.

Thanks!

:beerjug:
 
Good for you... some great memories... looks like you got the weather too... the RT suits you well, although I'm sure you were hankering after the trails..

Thanks for the reminder...:thumb2
 
Nice one Johnny. I didn't realise you had got yourself an RT, I really like these and great for eating up the miles. Tell us a bit more about how you found it???

AndyT:thumb2

I bought it in early October

I've been looking for a good one for a 2-3 years, but they all seem to suffer from owner abuse and subsequent corrosion due to cleaning neglect

Nobody takes the panels off and thus they just rot away

However this one is different:thumb2

1996 12 years old and only 22,000 miles with 12 BMW Service stamps

Underneath it's very clean and has had regular care

The exhaust is as good as new and as shiny as my last 11GS that I sold in the summer

Found it in a main BMW dealer and bought it for less than £3k, complete with colour matched Panniers and Heated Grips etc

Electric Screen - ABS2 (no Servos:augie) and enough gismos to enjoy the ride, without all the unnecessary crap associated with modern Beemers (sold the 2008 12GSA with all the gadgets, to buy this and don't regret it one bit:P)

Added a Baglux cover (for my trusty Michelin Maps) and a Sargent seat, together with a Givi box which I had in the loft. I put a new Zumo 550 on it for the trip (on a BMW Mount) which works very well.

But the Zumo was overkill and never used it in anger.......so sold it to MadMountainMan

Going to fit a cradle for my trusty Quest:thumb

The bike will cruise all day at 90mph on the motorway in superb comfort and weather protection - who needs more?

Still keeping the 1150GSA though - it's iconic:D
 
Good for you... some great memories... looks like you got the weather too... the RT suits you well, although I'm sure you were hankering after the trails..

Thanks for the reminder...:thumb2

I thought about the time we were there in 2006, Sue - as I rode some of the same roads we did, with Judge and Spanish Bob et al

RT is good........but the 1150Adv is not going anywhere:clap
 
Great report and great pictures Johnny, fair set the mind spinning with devious plans :-)
PicosView.jpg


I had an 1100RT, it was a super bike, and quite a bargain now as you found, anyone looking for a very competent tourer should look no further
 
:agree ......I have a hankering to visit the Picos sometime soon.....:thumb2

If you haven't been there yet, you really must go. I'd put it up there with 'the ring' of biking things you 'have' to do. Some fantastic riding! You'd love it.
 
Nice pics. Potes and valley up to Fuente De are fantastic, but it looks like you had it much quieter than when I was there in June 2007. There are some really cheap digs available in the main square in Potes. I think we paid We paid about 10 euros per night (back in the day when the pound was worth something). Looks like a top value trip for a cold october though.
 


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