I see it frequently, hence why I suggested it was the problem way back in this thread, the early K series also had clutch splines wear out frequently, as do the 1100 and 1150 models ..
Audio Diagnostic Please. It doesn't sound right and has no drive...
- Thread starter Lawrence_NZ
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Its just a big meccano set for big boys, patience is key, none of it is beyond the average home mechanic.
It all comes apart and goes back together easily enough, the only drama I found was getting the rear subframe to align with its bolt holes whilst trying to engage the driveshaft splines onto the gearbox at the same time, you need many hands. An option would be to fit the subframe to the engine/gearbox without the swinging arm fitted, then rebuild things in stages but I just put half the bike back together in one go to save time.
I think last time I did a Hexhead clutch, I used a ratchet strap to keep the back half of the bike roughly in place under slight tension whilst I jiggled the driveshaft around to get it horizontal and engaged on the gearbox splines, then ratcheted it forwards and got the frame mounting bolts in.
Hopefully the legend that is Steptoe will be along soon with a few hot tips for reassembly, I've only done three hexhead clutches, he must have done dozens.
As for lubricating the splines, a lot of old timers would periodically strip their boxers apart to lube the gearbox/clutch splines as preventative maintenance. I would recommend burnishing the splines with a little Moly 60 paste to provide a small degree of appropriate lubrication, but go easy and wipe off any excess........ Do a bit of googling on how Molybdenum Disulphide bonds alternating layers of Moly and sulphur to sliding surfaces like shafts, splines etc for lubrication and remains working even when dry.
It all comes apart and goes back together easily enough, the only drama I found was getting the rear subframe to align with its bolt holes whilst trying to engage the driveshaft splines onto the gearbox at the same time, you need many hands. An option would be to fit the subframe to the engine/gearbox without the swinging arm fitted, then rebuild things in stages but I just put half the bike back together in one go to save time.
I think last time I did a Hexhead clutch, I used a ratchet strap to keep the back half of the bike roughly in place under slight tension whilst I jiggled the driveshaft around to get it horizontal and engaged on the gearbox splines, then ratcheted it forwards and got the frame mounting bolts in.
Hopefully the legend that is Steptoe will be along soon with a few hot tips for reassembly, I've only done three hexhead clutches, he must have done dozens.
As for lubricating the splines, a lot of old timers would periodically strip their boxers apart to lube the gearbox/clutch splines as preventative maintenance. I would recommend burnishing the splines with a little Moly 60 paste to provide a small degree of appropriate lubrication, but go easy and wipe off any excess........ Do a bit of googling on how Molybdenum Disulphide bonds alternating layers of Moly and sulphur to sliding surfaces like shafts, splines etc for lubrication and remains working even when dry.
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ratchet will be my first method and see how that goes.
I have an oil leak it appears from the bolt at the base of the clutch. I have not noticed any oil drops prior or even while it was parked up. The inside of the gearbox also looks dirty but not soaked in oil. I realise the bike is on an incline but as the leak appears to be the bottom of or at least lower portion of the engine this might be due to the dissasembly? Engine oil has not been drained prior to dissassembly.
I have an oil leak it appears from the bolt at the base of the clutch. I have not noticed any oil drops prior or even while it was parked up. The inside of the gearbox also looks dirty but not soaked in oil. I realise the bike is on an incline but as the leak appears to be the bottom of or at least lower portion of the engine this might be due to the dissasembly? Engine oil has not been drained prior to dissassembly.
That looks like engine oil to me rather than gear oil.
Check the seal around the balance weight shaft at the bottom of the engine casing inside the clutch housing. You can unbolt the balance weight, it is simply keyed onto its shaft in the correct orientation.
Also check the crankshaft rear main oil seal with the clutch removed.
No idea if the bolt has a sealing washer underneath the head, or even what the bolt is for without consulting a parts fiche. Hopefully an easy fix with a bit of research, if all else fails perhaps remove and clean the bolt and use some PTFE plumbers tape on the threads and bolt head then refit it to seal the leak?
Also check the gearbox input shaft seal, the early 1200's (including my own) had issues with this seal leaking.
Check the seal around the balance weight shaft at the bottom of the engine casing inside the clutch housing. You can unbolt the balance weight, it is simply keyed onto its shaft in the correct orientation.
Also check the crankshaft rear main oil seal with the clutch removed.
No idea if the bolt has a sealing washer underneath the head, or even what the bolt is for without consulting a parts fiche. Hopefully an easy fix with a bit of research, if all else fails perhaps remove and clean the bolt and use some PTFE plumbers tape on the threads and bolt head then refit it to seal the leak?
Also check the gearbox input shaft seal, the early 1200's (including my own) had issues with this seal leaking.
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I remove the shaft, fit the subframe. Then drop down the final drive and refit the drive shaft. 5 minutes of work refitting the driveshaft saves a hell of a lot of fucking around trying to fit the subframe with the drive shaft in place. Bare in mind I’m doing the job on my own with no help.
video on youtube of a bod in Thailand (or somewhere) doing a clutch - he does ALL THREE SEALS at the same time 2 on the box and the Rear main
might be this one
I can't find that bolt on any of the parts fiche, sorry. It might mentioned somewhere be in the REPROM I sent which could explain its purpose and whether it is safe to remove it or not.
Steptoe's suggested method to first remove the driveshaft, replace the FD/Wheel and then attach the subframe makes great sense. That way once it is bolted on you can easily remove the wheel again, swing down the FD at its knuckle and then insert/fit the driveshaft.
That front driveshaft to gearbox spline is still a pain in the arse to get engaged, but at least you aren't fighting against the whole bike.
Steptoe's suggested method to first remove the driveshaft, replace the FD/Wheel and then attach the subframe makes great sense. That way once it is bolted on you can easily remove the wheel again, swing down the FD at its knuckle and then insert/fit the driveshaft.
That front driveshaft to gearbox spline is still a pain in the arse to get engaged, but at least you aren't fighting against the whole bike.
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