Flappy valve thingy

Lord Snooty

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Out on the bike yesterday and at the end of the day I had an engine warning come up on the TFT screen and the engine icon illuminated permanently. Luckily I was only 3 miles from home. I've not had the bike two weeks yet, I called Cotswold BMW and they recommended calling BMW Recovery. I gave them a call and was sent a link by text to full in some details and not long after I had a call and they advised me that somebody would be at my house within 90 minutes. Not long after I was sent a link which showed me in real time where the technician was and how long it would be before he arrived, all very impressive, and he arrived very much inside the 90 minutes originally forecast.

Laptop plugged into the OBD and he quickly diagnosed a sticky exhaust valve even though the bike has only done 7000 miles. He was happy for me to watch what he did and he talked me through it. He told me that it is the return spring that starts to seize up and it just needs copious amounts of WD40 or equivalent and to keep working the spring backwards and forwards until all the crud is released and the spring starts to snap the valve shut on its own accord, it took him about 30 minutes.

He said a lot of the problems occur due to lack of use, my bike is 2021 and 7k is low mileage so that makes sense, what an excuse to go out and get some mileage done! It seems daft that the valve mechanism is not part of the service schedule and at every 6k service I will open it up and give it some TLC to keep it operating freely.

First time I have used BMW Recovery and I was very impressed with the way I was dealt with and the response.
 
Out on the bike yesterday and at the end of the day I had an engine warning come up on the TFT screen and the engine icon illuminated permanently. Luckily I was only 3 miles from home. I've not had the bike two weeks yet, I called Cotswold BMW and they recommended calling BMW Recovery. I gave them a call and was sent a link by text to full in some details and not long after I had a call and they advised me that somebody would be at my house within 90 minutes. Not long after I was sent a link which showed me in real time where the technician was and how long it would be before he arrived, all very impressive, and he arrived very much inside the 90 minutes originally forecast.

Laptop plugged into the OBD and he quickly diagnosed a sticky exhaust valve even though the bike has only done 7000 miles. He was happy for me to watch what he did and he talked me through it. He told me that it is the return spring that starts to seize up and it just needs copious amounts of WD40 or equivalent and to keep working the spring backwards and forwards until all the crud is released and the spring starts to snap the valve shut on its own accord, it took him about 30 minutes.

He said a lot of the problems occur due to lack of use, my bike is 2021 and 7k is low mileage so that makes sense, what an excuse to go out and get some mileage done! It seems daft that the valve mechanism is not part of the service schedule and at every 6k service I will open it up and give it some TLC to keep it operating freely.

First time I have used BMW Recovery and I was very impressed with the way I was dealt with and the response.

I had the same issue with mine. BMW recovery were very good. Bike recovered to Dick Lovett. Faulty flappy valve identified, new headers fitted under warranty and vehicle delivered back home.
 
Does this video show what the technician undertook?

https://youtu.be/RotyfH_wBLY

Very similar except he never removed the end can, the steps he took:

1. Remove plastic cover
2. Undid the Bowden cable lock nuts
3. Popped the Bowden cable nipples out to get them out of the way (the cables have different size nipples to prevent misplacement)
4. Loads of spray on the spring beneath the circular cable mounting plate
5. Lots of pushing the cable mounting plate backwards and forwards with a screwdriver
6. Repeat 4 and 5 loads of times until the spring frees up and returns the cable mounting plate smoothly and unassisted
7. Replace cable nipples, Bowden cables and tweak up lock nuts
8. Replace plastic cover
 
The return spring cannot seize up, it is a mere spring. It is the valve spindle that seizes up. The spring is not man enough to overcome the excessive resistance.
 
thread

I did put up another post on this problem.

But just to add to your experience. I was told by a BMW mechanic to do as you have but also to put a metal drift- rod into the centre and whack it a couple of times with a hammer.(right in the centre- not touching the. cable guides)

He told me it gives a few thou of clearance and seems the only long term cure.

I have had mine replaced and tried lubing it 3 times- but the hammer treatment seems to be lasting longer (at the moment)

I think heat expansion and the spring gently work the flap upwards.

Never keen on taking a hammer to the bike but the whacks get bigger every time I do it and the last "two good whacks"
Have lasted!

A friends GS1200LC was starting to squeak hinting at rubbing last week- he was reluctant to whack it- so I did it and its worked, no lubbing just the hammer.
 
I did put up another post on this problem.

But just to add to your experience. I was told by a BMW mechanic to do as you have but also to put a metal drift- rod into the centre and whack it a couple of times with a hammer.(right in the centre- not touching the. cable guides)

He told me it gives a few thou of clearance and seems the only long term cure.

I have had mine replaced and tried lubing it 3 times- but the hammer treatment seems to be lasting longer (at the moment)

I think heat expansion and the spring gently work the flap upwards.

Never keen on taking a hammer to the bike but the whacks get bigger every time I do it and the last "two good whacks"
Have lasted!

A friends GS1200LC was starting to squeak hinting at rubbing last week- he was reluctant to whack it- so I did it and its worked, no lubbing just the hammer.

So, just to make sure I have this correct. The drift goes onto the centre of the circular pull/push cable guide and then whack it?

Thanks for the info, the more we can gather to help prevent this component failing the better.
 
I got fed up with my Exhaust Valve sticking, regularly lubed it, all to no avail. In the end it started again, just out of warranty, so I fitted one of the Healtech Exhaust Valve Eliminators, dead easy to fit and no more issues with the exhaust valve. Only difference is that its a tad noisier on start-up, which after a few seconds reduces to the normal tickover burble (and no problems with MOT's either). Part no ESE-BM1 from Healtech
 
So, just to make sure I have this correct. The drift goes onto the centre of the circular pull/push cable guide and then whack it?

I asked Nick dj for clarification on this way back in January, hope he will clear it up for you, which will then help us all out.
 
I got fed up with my Exhaust Valve sticking, regularly lubed it, all to no avail. In the end it started again, just out of warranty, so I fitted one of the Healtech Exhaust Valve Eliminators, dead easy to fit and no more issues with the exhaust valve. Only difference is that its a tad noisier on start-up, which after a few seconds reduces to the normal tickover burble (and no problems with MOT's either). Part no ESE-BM1 from Healtech

That's really useful, thanks
 


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