Lake Garda and Some Others - Part 1

BRD · Jul 7, 2015

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Lake Garda and Some Others - Part 1

This years’ trip is a bit of a change of format and was to be a trip of 3 halfs (halves?)...

Part number A – I ride the bike to Lake Garda.
Part section 2 – My wife flies to Verona airport, I collect her and we spend 5 nights at Riva.
The last bit- We both travel back on the bike.

The original planning for this trip took place just after Christmas and tunnel, flight and the hotel
at Riva del Garda were booked sometime in February.

Everything else was to be sorted later............

Which didn’t really happen, time went by, work and other stuff got in the way of any planning and
with only a couple of weeks before I was due to leave it all seemed like far too difficult / too much
effort to organise where to go, or in one persons case – what to pack (she has not been on more
than a weekend away on a bike before).

We very nearly didn’t go.

Obviously we did or this would be the worst trip report ever!

I had already organised for a new set of tyres to be fitted and the bike serviced, so with both these
things done and the final decision to go made I / we rather hastily drew up a route and I loaded it
into Joanna.

To ease the pressure levels on the way back I pre-booked all the overnight stops. And then booked
some for the way out as well. This is not something I’ve done on previous trips but actually worked
out (mostly) ok, although I’m not sure I’d do it that way again – I do like the “where shall I stop tonight”
bit of a trip.

Also in this last minute “planning” session was a decision for me to leave on the Sunday instead of the
originally planned Saturday, as it turned out this was a good decision as the weather was absolutely
rubbish on the Saturday and we had time to actually pack some stuff.

Anyway – enough of the preamble...........

Day 1

Sunday dawns and it’s a lovely sunny day and I’m happy to be going off on my bike.

I set off spot on 07:30ish with a booking for the 11:20 train sous la manche.

197 miles of mostly motorway to do, 1 fuel stop required = no stress.

10 miles down the road the sun disappears and it is noticeably cooler, what follows is 160ish miles of dull, at times drizzly,
cool riding with the last 15 or so miles back in the sunshine – still it was better than the weather the day before!

Eurotunnel was as good as previously and around 35 minutes after boarding and spending some time talking to a fellow biker

with a very well used 80,000ish mile 1999 vintage Ducati (looked like a Monster but I’m no expert on Ducatis and this
doesn’t really show the bike, or him for that matter) which is his only transport, I’m in France and the sun is out.

First night’s stop was Reims; so Autoroute, stopping at one of the service areas for lunch, to Cléry-sur-Somme then
D & C roads, I stopped for a while at the American Oise-Aisne Cemetery

and also at the old grandstands just outside Reims

Where a chap on a bike helpfully pulled a wheelie for almost the full length of the grandstand to add to the atmosphere.

I was being lazy and stopping at a hotel I used last year, the Hôtel Campanile, a bit expensive but comfortable and with a garage for the bike.

There are worse places to spend a Sunday evening

Day 2 and I’m heading for Gérardmer, it should be a lovely trip across some quiet roads via Montfaucon-d'Argonne

The Ossuaire de Douaumont

I’m not sure of the draw of the monuments and cemeteries; they are just places I felt the need to visit.

And on a lighter note – late lunch at Pont-à-Mousson

Not long after lunch the skies ahead went very dark, in an “everything has disappeared” kind of way, but to each side it
was still sunny so I didn’t worry about it. A few miles further and I thought about swapping to my waterproof gloves and
putting the storm collar and hood on my jacket. 10 minutes later and it proved that it would have been a good idea but
by then it was too late – it hammered it down for about 20 miles.

After the rain it was a generally good ride into the Vosges

Arrived at Auberge Au bord du Lac and settled into my room.

The only real drag with this hotel is that it’s a bit of a distance to the town and unless you want to ride the only place
to eat is in the hotel restaurant, with a view

not that it was too much of a hardship

Day 3 is into the big mountains of Switzerland, final destination Churwalden. It was always going to be a long day, the
price of leaving a day later than originally planned.

Anyway, after a decent breakfast sat at a table with a view over the lake I was off via the D430 & D431 to Le Grand Ballon
for a coffee stop, low cloud rather spoiled the view and slowed things down a bit but still a good place to go.

The next bit was a very mixed bag. Crossing into Switzerland I fuelled up and was soon on Passwangstrasse, a lovely little
bit of road & countryside to get started, but for some reason I have no photos. By this time the sun was out and I was
happy bumbling along.

The next bit of road I’d wanted to ride was the Panoramastrasse, only because I’d read about it in John Hermann’s’ book
and it was generally in the direction I wanted to go.

Between these two places I somehow ended up going through a number of towns and villages, always seeming to be stuck
behind a lorry which rather took the enjoyment off things.

When I eventually got to the pass I had the road to myself.

I really like this type of road.

Time, however, was definitely ticking by, that says 14:59 and 192km to go on Joanna’s screen.

The sun had by now disappeared behind clouds but still the scenery was great, this is Lungernersee

Next bit is the Brünigpass before heading to Innertkirchen. I had ridden the Grimsel & Furka last year (in the opposite
direction and in the rain) so thought I’d probably go Susten this time but would decide when I got to the junction.

Given that the clouds were getting darker I stuck with the plan and went Susten.

The first bit was quite good, until it started raining and either the cloud came down or I went up to meet it. At least I
had already put on waterproof gloves and the storm collar.

Visibility was terrible, probably 15m at most for what seemed like the vast majority of the pass.

Twice to this bit of Switzerland – twice low cloud and rain.

Anyway I eventually get to Wassen and [SUB]****[/SUB] – the road to Andermatt is closed. Marvellous.

At least the rain had stopped.

This is where the pre-booked hotel bit goes wrong, because by now it’s too late to cancel the room without having to pay
for it, so what to do?

A consultation with the map suggested that the Klausen Pass was the way to go, I thought I’d see how far I got; I could
always find a hotel if I’d had enough.

As it was the Klausen was rather good, definitely one to re-visit. Some time spent in the cloud wasn’t great but it was not
as bad as going over the Susten. So my mood was much more upbeat.

Even though there was a bit more rain and the temperature had dropped I felt ok to press on and at about 20:30 I arrive at
the Hotel Hemmi where a very friendly welcome and a good meal (no pic) awaited.

(Photo taken the following morning)

Rather a long day, but I was to get the reward tomorrow......

Day 4 and I’m off to Riva del Garda.

Not the sunniest of starts to the day but certainly looking promising.

As I’m getting ready to leave an English couple come out the door and we chat for a bit, they tell me they are heading
to somewhere near Venice, then to Nice before heading home. Also they say they don’t have a map. Just a Sat Nav that
they don’t really know how to use and they had had it set to “off-road” yesterday which caused a problem. They head
to their car which is around the side of the hotel, as I wheel the bike back I can see it’s a TVR of some kind!

Off road in a TVR..............

First bit is the Albula Pass, absolutely loved it.

It’s a bit early for a coffee stop so I head on down the pass.

A right turn and shortly I’m at the North end of the Bernina pass. Do I stop for coffee in St Moritz? No, but I will stop for
a drink and photo

St Moritz is just around the corner to the left.

Heading up the pass the weather is looking up....

Shortly I’m at the top and looking down towards Italy.

However I’m heading over Forcola di Livigno

and on into the village, a place I skied at 20 something years ago. Filling up with super cheap fuel (about 82p a litre) from
an ESSO station I head on, the SS301 taking me to Bormio over two passes that I can’t remember the names of. All the
time thinking “did I really travel by coach from the airport over these roads?” It seemed to me that it would be bad enough
in the summer, let alone in the winter, in the dark!

A left turn and I’m on the Passo di Gavia, another great road in my opinion

It’s cool at the top and into Rifugio Bonetta

I go for some lunch, narrowly avoiding getting flattened by some chap in cycling gear that comes out the door in a great hurry.

after lunch I see this

I also see the couple in the TVR drive over the top.

Just over the summit and I stop again to take some more photos.

It’s a truly beautiful location.

As I stop I notice a wallet lying on the ground, there’s no one around and I’m there for a little while and no one appears
so I figure it’s been lost, pick it up and put it in my top box, I’ll have to work out how to return it to its owner – more on
this later.

At the bottom of the pass it’s another left turn onto the Passo del Tonale, there are more bikes here.

Off we go, for all of half a mile and the traffic is all stopped

There is some tree clearance going on, the cut trees are being dragged down the road, mumblings amongst the fellow
bikers, about 50 bikes at a guess (not all in that pic obviously) seems to suggest that the delay will be 5 minutes, obviously
this is Italy so even if it was supposed to be 5 minutes it’ll be more, about 15 in the end. I could have pressed some flowers.

There are worse places to be stood around on a Wednesday afternoon.

Everyone is soon on the move again and some TT/race track type riding is evident from a few folks who seem determined
to show the rest of us how good they are. Each to their own and all that, but it seems a bit daft to be going for it on a
crowded road.

Any way we all soon slow to a crawl again just after the top of the pass as there has been an accident, emergency vehicles
and a bike on its side in the middle of the road, not good.

The TVR is in the slow moving queue, I give them a wave as I filter past.

Shortly it’s a right turn for a change, towards Madonna di Campiglio and by late afternoon I’m at the Hotel Flora at Riva.

I don’t need to be at Verona airport until 21:30 so I have time to unpack and have a meal.

A quick zip down the autostrada sees me at the airport in about an hour, my wife’s flight is on time and with only hand luggage
we are soon on the bike. Not sure that autostrada in the dark is the best introduction to motorcycling in Italy but needs must.

We are back at the hotel by 23:00.

theory900 · Jul 7, 2015

Excellent so far, looking forward to the rest.

We were in Garda on May 31st this year and the rain was biblical - hope you weren't there then!

BRD · Jul 8, 2015

Lake Garda and Some Others - Part 2

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Day 5

First thing to sort is the wallet that I found, the guy on hotel reception is helpful and offers to try to contact the owner,
there’s no cash in it so we wonder if it’s been stolen and dumped.

Forecast is for showers in the late afternoon, otherwise mid 20’s and some sun. What to do?

Hotel Paradiso for coffee

And associated views

would be a good start.

Another John Hermann location. If you haven’t been, the road is, shall we say, interesting.

The civil engineering that has gone into the construction of so many roads in the mountain areas is staggering.

From here it was a loop back down to the lake and then SP9 past Lago di Valvestino, a very tight and twisty road, with
lunch at a small cafe (Osteria Snack Bar?)

Followed by an ice-cream overlooking Lago d’Idro

SS240 takes us past Lago di Ledro and back to Riva

A great day out, the forecast showers arrive just after I have put the bike in the garage!

We sit on the balcony and are amused by the couple (nationality unknown) on a GS who are putting on all their hi-viz wet
weather gear at the petrol station across the way, it takes ages and it’s probably about 26C – they must have been melting.
By the time they move off the rain has stopped!

The clouds soon clear and we have a wander.

Day 6 Weather forecast much the same as yesterday.

Monte Baldo is the agreed direction today so after filling up with very expensive fuel, off we go.

A bit of traffic on the first bit soon vanishes as we turn onto SP3. What a great road this is, the scenery is great.

We are planning on a coffee stop at Bocca di Navene where the views are apparently brilliant.

Well we could see to the East and yes the view was good, unfortunately there was cloud in the bowl below the cafe and
there was nothing to be seen. Oh well, I guess we’ll have to revisit.

A road closure meant a diversion almost down to Garda town before we went back up to Prada on SP9 before dropping
down to Assenza.

The road down is rather narrow and steep with plenty of hairpin corners, the balance of the GS and the amount of engine
braking available made it ok, it’s the steepest, tightest road I’ve been down with a pillion on.....

Back down at lake level it was warm and late lunch time.

The sky was looking rather threatening so we headed back to the hotel. Just getting a bit of rain on the way.

Our evening meal was at one of the lake side eateries, thankfully we were under an umbrella as it hammered it down for a while.

Saturday is Day 7 of my/our trip

We set off towards Madonna di Campiglio but the further North we go the worse the weather looks.

Change of plan – we’ll go for coffee at one of the hotels we passed the other day by Lago di Ledro.

There may have been some cake involved as well.

A suggestion was made of lunch at Hotel Paradiso, I didn’t need asking twice.

While we were eating a storm came through, which meant that the group of German Harley riders
(we’d seen them yesterday as well) who had just left must have got soaked.

After admiring the view and taking more photos

We headed South on the coast road to Toscolano Maderno for the ferry over to Torri del Benaco, just because it’s there
I suppose. Although I do like to go on these type of ferries with the bike.

There was an oldish chap with a very nice looking Fiat 124 Spyder in front of us in the queue, he was rather preoccupied
with his lady friend so I didn’t bother attempting to ask him about it.

A bumble along the coast road back to Riva concluded a very enjoyable ride out.

Another evening meal on the lake shore rounded off the day.

Sunday was Day 8 and a day off the bike, we had a ride on a couple of ferries

For lunch at Malcesine

And a ferry back. Being Sunday everywhere was quite busy but not packed.

I liked Riva, it's got that something about it. Not sure I'd want to be there in peak season though.

Tomorrow the homeward leg of the trip begins.......

stever1 · Jul 8, 2015

1. Where is hotel paradiso ?
2. Did you go to the Bastion ?
3. you can see the balcony of the room we had last year in the Sole. 3rd floor 3rd from the left. loverly place. We've been there 5 times now

Deleted account Cooperman · Jul 8, 2015

The north end of Garda is a favourite of mine. I will be there in a week :thumby:

Nice trip

BRD · Jul 8, 2015

stever1 said:
1. Where is hotel paradiso ?
2. Did you go to the Bastion ?
3. you can see the balcony of the room we had last year in the Sole. 3rd floor 3rd from the left. loverly place. We've been there 5 times now

1, Pieve, on the west side of the lake, 5k south of Limone
2, No we didn't
3, Hope you enjoyed your trip

BRD · Jul 8, 2015

Day 9 and Part 3 of the trip begins....

Checking out of the hotel the reception chap tells me that he had contacted the owner of the wallet and he had
come to collect it on Friday, nothing had been taken from it and the guy was pleased to get it back. Gives me a
couple of Karma credits I guess.

Apparently they had tried to phone me to tell/thank but I’d not heard my phone ringing – I’d wondered what the
missed call from a strange number was!

Anyway back to the trip.

Destination – Hotel Lavaredo, on the shore of Lago di Misurina, via some of the Dolomites passes.

I find that the bike has some interesting company in the hotel garage.

Oh and a mystery one too

We head east and are soon climbing past Castel Beseno on SS350.

And drop down for a coffee stop by Lago di Caldonazzo

I do wonder about these type of restaurants, quite isolated, covers for maybe 150 people and just us 2 customers
– how do they make enough money?

We wind our way onwards, and eventually arrive at the top of Passo Sella

My wife is rather surprised at the number of folks and bikes that are there, it’s the first “proper” pass she has been
over. It was actually not that busy.

Some unfortunate German guy manages to drop his Honda Deauville while trying to move it back onto the black stuff
from the gravel at the side of the road, nightmare! Others in his group soon sort it, those things weigh almost as much as a GS.

The scenery here is stunning, even though there is still some cloud about

Neither of us has been here before and we add the area to the “must come back” list.

The bike gets re-fuelled in Cortina d'Ampezzo, most expensive fuel of the trip but the guy did the filling – I still had to
do the paying though....

We arrive at the hotel and think mmmmmm I wonder how this is going to pan out. Like many out of season places
it’s all a bit quiet.

After a coffee and some cake in the place at the top of the lake we decide not to walk all around the lake as it really
looks like it’s about to rain, good decision as the drops start before we get back to the hotel. It wasn’t warm either,
but that shouldn’t have been a huge surprise given we are at about 1,800m.

There we about 20 folks staying and the food was good enough. Actually turned out to be one of the most comfortable
places we stayed – don’t judge a book etc

Tuesday morning, Day 10, dawns bright and raining, a lot, the cloud is down and the lake that we have paid extra to have a view
of is just about visible. Ideal motorcycle touring conditions, or maybe not....

Well no rush today, the next stop is Zell am See so only 100miles ish and the forecast is for it to clear up by lunch time.

By 10am the rain has stopped and the sky is clearing so a ride up the toll road to Tre Cime di Lavaredo is back on, it was
the point of staying overnight here, but there’s not much point if you can’t see anything.

However we can see something

After coffee in Rifugio Auronzo and some more photos

We head back towards Misurina to have a look at the lake with some sun on it

That done we head off towards a little known pass that we have had a whisper is worth riding.

It’s a great road and we have the place almost to ourselves. We stop at one the Rifugios. Judging by the size of the
facilities perhaps they are expecting more folks

And we have some lunch

Nice view though

The cloud seems to be making a comeback so we decide to press on and I eventually find my bike

And we carry on

The clouds are attending the afternoon conference on the other side of the tunnel, although the absentees mean that
some of the view is still on show

Not much of it though. Given the start to the day we think that we’ve done well and carry on to Zell.

I remember too late that Joannas’ “distance to turn” isn’t accurate when driving in a tunnel and end up approaching
Zell from the North rather than South. Never mind.

Hotel zum Hirschen is close to the middle of town and has a garage for the bike. It also has a good restaurant, which
is just as well as we booked an evening meal. The head waitress was a bit scary but the food was good.

Where are we up to? Oh yes Day 11 of the trip (or 8 if you are only riding pillion)

This is where we stop heading East and go West and a bit North with Hotel Garni Schlossblick at Hohenschwangau
being the overnight stop so the other half could see Mad King Ludwig’s little house that I had see last year.

I’d planned a route which took in the Gerlos pass and Fernpass as well as some quieter roads stopping for coffee along the way

And lunch at Gasthof Post Vorderriß

I think “traditional” is the best way to describe it (if you ignore the fact that Crocs are not traditional footwear with
lederhosen) – good food though.

I’m wondering if there is time to explore the valley to Eng, quite a few cars and bikes have come from that way, but
it’s already a long enough day – another trip maybe.

Roads along the way....

The Fernpass is busy, not helped by the Lermoos tunnel being closed and after a cracking day we arrive at the hotel,
cheap, clean and a good location.

We go for a walk amongst the throngs of American and Japanese tourists to see this

Mind boggling building.

Tea by the lake is a more relaxing experience away from the crowds

Day 12 and we are really on the way home now, the high mountains gone but that doesn’t mean there are no good
roads or scenery

This bit is great – especially when you can ride it at your own pace because you were at the front of the traffic queue
when the lights changed.

A lunch stop in a quiet German town

And a slight deviation to take in the B500

A right turn, one wiggly road later and we arrive at our hotel

Well this was a result; we get a junior suite room, laugh that the room is almost as big as our house and have our meal
out on the terrace. Lots of people seemed to have come just to eat at the restaurant so there was a good atmosphere.

It looks like Kevin McCloud has been here to; I was intrigued by this cloths peg on the roof of the building across the valley

I’m not sure that the wedding reception party were overly impressed about a grubby bike being parked outside the front
door, but I parked where I was instructed to.....

It was a fantastic place to stay and not silly expensive either.

OK, Friday, nearly the end.

Very much a cover ground day today but I have some convoluted, hopefully not too busy, route programmed into Joanna
just based on random places to go via – not expecting to see anything particularly exciting. The first bit is ok and we
make good time. We stop for coffee near a lake and can’t believe how hot it is. Moving on we cross the Moselle and we
are in Luxembourg, a good place to re-fuel the bike (still nothing like as cheap as Livigno) and get some snack food for us.

This seems a nice shady spot in the middle of nowhere to eat said snacks

We carry on and a road closure with associated diversion confuses Joanna, not that I realise.... I’d looked at the map over
“lunch” but failed to remember the key towns we should be going through, not that it really mattered other than a further
road closure really messed things up. It’s hot and I can’t really be bothered to study the map that hard and leave it to
Joanna to decide, but she’s obviously getting her own back for the times I’ve gone a different way to the one she suggests
and sends us on some circuitous route ending on miles of straight road between millions of trees. Ah well.

So for the last night away we end up in a rather warm Bouillon and the Hôtel de la Poste. I was here last year and thought
it was good so decided to stay again.

It was still good but was overshadowed a bit by the previous night’s hotel.

Too hot to do much other than go for a short walk and relax.

Saturday - Day 14 – going home day and quite a long way to go.

There are a couple of places I want to go on the indirect way to the tunnel and I want to keep off the main / busy roads.

We stop for coffee in a little town

and lunch at Cambrai

Before calling at some more memorials.

After a final bit of autoroute we get to the tunnel

I forget to remind my passenger to raise the sun visor in her hat before we get to the UK Border Control, the official was
not greatly impressed but we didn’t get delayed and were in time to have time for a drink and something to eat before we board.

Back on English roads we head up the M20, as we pass Junction 8 the odometer changes to 20,000 – not many by some
peoples standards I know – but it still made me smile, I couldn’t imagine any bike I’d rather be riding.

2,895 miles after setting off and we are home, it’s been a great trip.

For some reason I’ve written rather a lot and included more photos than previously, it just worked out that way.

Thanks for reading.

As I said at the end of my write up last year;

To those of you who have already been to the places I’ve written about I hope it refreshes good memories and those who
haven’t been on a trip - maybe it’ll inspire you to go.

DC · Jul 8, 2015

very very nice , sounded like a top trip , thanks for taking the time to post all those pics ,some great shots too

GrinningGSer · Jul 8, 2015

Thanks for that enjoyable report. Did you go into the Chitty Bang Bang castle and was it worth it ?

BRD · Jul 8, 2015

We went into the courtyard of the castle, didn't do the guided tour - I think they were fully booked for the day and there were just too many people, especially when you have been traveling through quiet places.

It's not expensive though.

It just seems such a crazy building, the detailing is fantastic.

linnet · Jul 8, 2015

Enjoyed that,great photo's and report.... :clap

Thanks for sharing..

kurienp · Jul 9, 2015

Nice RR BRD. Thanks for taking the time out to share. Excellent pics there

Was the pic duty assigned to the passenger?

Glenboy · Jul 9, 2015

Very enjoyable read and good photos - thanks for sharing :thumb2

LittleJohn · Jul 9, 2015

Excellent RR and pics, thanks for sharing.

Turkish · Jul 9, 2015

I'm inspired. Thank you for sharing.

oddshapedballs · Jul 9, 2015

Brilliant write up, cheers!

Adventurefankk · Oct 5, 2015

Pictures are amazing and very informative writing sounds like you had a fab trip , my wife and I have been to riva albeit not on the bike , after reading this report I think it's high time we did "feeling inspired " thanks

Lake Garda and Some Others - Part 1

BRD

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theory900

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BRD

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stever1

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Deleted account Cooperman

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BRD

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BRD

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DC

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GrinningGSer

Infamous old git

BRD

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linnet

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Turkish

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