Biting point adjustment

carbold · Jul 27, 2005

Hi guys
my clutch is starting to bite very late - when the lever is close to the final position. I've done a search but - even though some had the same problem - there was no answer...Is there any way to move the biting point as for non-hydraulic clutches?

toucan · Jul 28, 2005

what bike is it?

i would have a go at adjusting the cable first. there is usually a threaded thingy at the clutch lever where the cable goes in. and maybe another one down at the gearbox somewhere.

carbold · Jul 28, 2005

Yes that would be the case with a normal cable-operated clutch but mine is hydraulic ('99 1150gs). I replaced the fluid and used good synthetic dot4 but it didn't make any difference.

cookie · Jul 28, 2005

dunno about GS's, but on a car that would tend to indicate the clutch was pretty worn.

Steptoe · Jul 28, 2005

Don't fill the reservoir to the top - as the clutch wears, the level rises -

Gas'd Off · Jul 28, 2005

I have the same problem, clutch takes up only when the lever is almost fully out. I think this is normal. I haven`t got round to it yet but I think the only option is to use the adjustment grub screw on the lever. I haven`t got round to it because it is threadlocked and needs some persuasion!

Steptoe · Jul 28, 2005

Bleed point No 12 is located on the rear subframe offside ( r/h side) .
cable tied to the subframe in a foam sleeve, just rearwards of the rear brake mastercylinder reservoir -

Gas'd Off · Jul 28, 2005

cable tied to the subframe in a foam sleeve

I was wondering what that was. Thanks :beer:

carbold · Jul 28, 2005

Lukate, I'm afraid that would only change the distance between lever and handle-bar, the biting point would always be far out...

(RIP) Kaister · Jul 28, 2005

You're supposed to be an Engineer aren't you ?

Do an FEA analysis on the clutch lever.

Analyse the whole system in mathematical formulae - indicating the possible causes.

Write a report about it - padding it to about 20 pages, and drawing a non-committal conclusion.

.... Then take it to someone who knows what they're doing and can actually fix the problem in 10 mins

carbold · Jul 28, 2005

I'm gonna have to finish my PhD first...Only then I will be able to scientifically address the problem and draw some conclusion...

Dr Carbold

boundless · Jul 28, 2005

2002-2003 1150 GS's : apparently there were a few dodgy slave cylinder mechanisms.

Mine failed completely at 6000 miles.

But the 'bite' moved inwards not outwards as it failed (ie closer to the bar.)

carbold · Jul 28, 2005

Great, I just have to hammer the slave cylinder then

Gas'd Off · Jul 28, 2005

I'm afraid that would only change the distance between lever and handle-bar

Are you sure? In my experience, most bikes I have worked on have a setup similar to my sketch below. This will alter the lever angle when the clutch bites. Maybe the GS is different? Anyone? Steptoe? :beer:

Gas'd Off · Jul 28, 2005

Ignore that previous sketch!!

It is back to front, D`oh!
Principle is the same though :beer:

Biting point adjustment

carbold

Active member

toucan

Registered user

carbold

Active member

cookie

Stay Frosty

Steptoe

What a waste.

Gas'd Off

Registered user

Attachments

Steptoe

What a waste.

Gas'd Off

Registered user

carbold

Active member

(RIP) Kaister

Well-known member

carbold

Active member

boundless

Well-known member

carbold

Active member

Gas'd Off

Registered user

Attachments

Gas'd Off

Registered user

Attachments

Similar threads