Fk,fk, fukity ,fk

Nice one and remember just use a small torque wrench, and no more than 9nm, when it clicks thats it ...............:clap:clap
 
I know retail markup can be 100% but at 9 quid a pair (18 quid for both sides), this must mean that machine art are making a good profit on the misfortune of others (whether or not in all cases the bolt weren't over tightened somewhat). I've noticed less than great quality on other of their fasteners, including those in the advanced guard kits. Disappointing in what are otherwise well thought-out, good quality products.
 
I sometimes wonder about all this torque stuff. I run a 1200 GS, a Street Triple R 765 plus a 1967 Triumph TR6. I work on the TR6 all the time but never use a torque wrench. A ring spanner at best and you just know when it’s tight enough. Never a problem.

Same with the GS but the Street triple is still new.
 
I sometimes wonder about all this torque stuff. I run a 1200 GS, a Street Triple R 765 plus a 1967 Triumph TR6. I work on the TR6 all the time but never use a torque wrench. A ring spanner at best and you just know when it’s tight enough. Never a problem.

Same with the GS but the Street triple is still new.

+1.. was going to post this ealier in the thread.. right length rings are the best... I do torque a few things on the GS.. but I've never done it on my other bikes / cars?... head bolts, yes.. but there again... I've done these in the past without :)
 
I sometimes wonder about all this torque stuff. I run a 1200 GS, a Street Triple R 765 plus a 1967 Triumph TR6. I work on the TR6 all the time but never use a torque wrench. A ring spanner at best and you just know when it’s tight enough. Never a problem.

Same with the GS but the Street triple is still new.

A pal of mine works at a large Motorrad dealer, and whenever he came to the house to work on my bikes NEVER used a torque wrench. He said you know when the bolt is tight ;)
 
A pal of mine works at a large Motorrad dealer, and whenever he came to the house to work on my bikes NEVER used a torque wrench. He said you know when the bolt is tight ;)

Not using torque wrench on bolts that screws into aluminum is stupid. While overtight a bolt in steel or cast iron does not do much harm, aluminum accumulates loads, and if you overtight only once, the damage has been done in the sense that there is a great chance of the threads being stripped later on.
This "feeling" some people brag about is bullocks.
 
Not using torque wrench on bolts that screws into aluminum is stupid. While overtight a bolt in steel or cast iron does not do much harm, aluminum accumulates loads, and if you overtight only once, the damage has been done in the sense that there is a great chance of the threads being stripped later on.
This "feeling" some people brag about is bullocks.

Especially when you have some bolts on bikes like the S1000R are 3NM and 90 degree turn one use only bolts.
 
Especially when you have some bolts on bikes like the S1000R are 3NM and 90 degree turn one use only bolts.

what.. stretch bolts!.. where are these used other than the cylinder head? madness!!
 
what.. stretch bolts!.. where are these used other than the cylinder head? madness!!

Aluminum expands a lot more than steel/iron, so stretch bolts are handy to use in areas exposed to variable temperatures, such as the crankcase, brake disks and cylinder-heads.

If none stretch bolts are to be used in these areas they would require longer screws with higher torque and heavier material surrounding the treads in order to handle the expansion during variable temperatures. Thus, in my opinion, I would not use the word madness :D
 
Aluminum expands a lot more than steel/iron, so stretch bolts are handy to use in areas exposed to variable temperatures, such as the crankcase, brake disks and cylinder-heads.

If none stretch bolts are to be used in these areas they would require longer screws with higher torque and heavier material surrounding the treads in order to handle the expansion during variable temperatures. Thus, in my opinion, I would not use the word madness :D

Ive seen the result of stretch bolts in V8 blocks... pulled up localy and even pulled out in some instances.
We've replaced these with studs most times and had no issues at all. I can't see why you'd need them in 10mm or ali on a brake?... again, many car / bike applications use ali calipers and standard bolts.. dab of blue and its sound.
 
Why?... how did my CB1100RC and Z900 ever stay together in the old days :)

maybe because they came from a time when things where built to last, now everything from a TV to a coffee machine must self destruct in less than 5 years........:mad:
 
Ive seen the result of stretch bolts in V8 blocks... pulled up localy and even pulled out in some instances.
We've replaced these with studs most times and had no issues at all. I can't see why you'd need them in 10mm or ali on a brake?... again, many car / bike applications use ali calipers and standard bolts.. dab of blue and its sound.

I have no experience with V8s, but quite a few cars use stretch bolts on the heads. The only time I have heard of problem with stretch bolts are when someone has used the same bolt more than once.
On BMWs, the only stretchbolts associated with the brakes are the bolts holding the brake disc to the hub. The mentioned rear caliper bolt needing replacement is not a stretch bolt. However it is covered with locking compound. The thing is, if the bolt should be reused, it would need cleaning and reapplication of locking compound. Given the hourly rate in most shops it will be cheaper for the customer to pay for a new bolt than paying the hourly rate for a mechanic cleaning the bolt. If you DIY the rear caliper it will be safe to clean the bolt and reapply Locktite.
 


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