£$%(* Plastic Cylinder Head Protectors.

[Tokoloshe]

Can anyone please offer any advice on my latest dilemma?

I'm going to try to do a 30k service on the R1100R & I'm having a spot of bother with the bolts that mount the plastic cylinder head protectors.

On the nearside front (under the zorst downpipe) the bolt head has kindly twisted off leaving the stud in the head. Is it advisable to use an easi-out on this or is there a cleverer way?

On the offside bottom mounting point, the hex thread has been stripped. Is is advisable to welly a slightly larger torx bit into the bolt head and try to get it moving this way?

I'd like to do the valve clearances as it 's a bit rattly & the rocker covers are a bit tatty so they must come off. The experience I could gain from doing this would probably come in handy for when the time comes to do the GS &

I bought the R1100R 2nd hand and it's only when you get really close up to do some work on them that you find all of these gremlins.

And all this work has to be done in the street cos me has no garage or workshop facilities!

I'd appreciate it if any of you knowledgeable gents could offer a solution.







Tok

 

[Spanish Bob]

Can anyone please offer any advice on my latest dilemma?

I'm going to try to do a 30k service on the R1100R & I'm having a spot of bother with the bolts that mount the plastic cylinder head protectors.

On the nearside front (under the zorst downpipe) the bolt head has kindly twisted off leaving the stud in the head. Is it advisable to use an easi-out on this or is there a cleverer way?

On the offside bottom mounting point, the hex thread has been stripped. Is is advisable to welly a slightly larger torx bit into the bolt head and try to get it moving this way?

I'd like to do the valve clearances as it 's a bit rattly & the rocker covers are a bit tatty so they must come off. The experience I could gain from doing this would probably come in handy for when the time comes to do the GS &

I bought the R1100R 2nd hand and it's only when you get really close up to do some work on them that you find all of these gremlins.

And all this work has to be done in the street cos me has no garage or workshop facilities!

I'd appreciate it if any of you knowledgeable gents could offer a solution.







Tok

sorry Tok Im not an expert in this stuff - I can only tell you it happened on my R1100R as well. Fortuantely it was parked in Sawbridgeworths workshop at the time!

good luck

 

[Rob Farmer]

Take it round to Steptoes.

 

[Barrie]

Cylinder Head Proctectors

Hi Tokoloshe
Is there enough stud sticking out of the broken stud to cut a slot for a screw driver?
if so, you might have some luck with that idea or else you need a stud extractor, best to take it to the local bike shop just to get it out.
However that method should work for the twisted one, if not the broken one.

I just thought that if you get the twisted one out first you should be able to remove the broken one when you get the cover off as it should just pull over the broken stud!
Best of luck,
Barrie.

 

[Mouse]

One way to get out a stud, but this only works if there's a decent amount of thread left on the stud.

What you do is thread two nuts onto the stud, and them lock them together by screwing one against the other quite tightly. The nuts should then grip the stud enough to use a spanner on them to wiggle the stud free.

If the stud won't move, application of heat from a blowtorch (or oxy acetylene torch but you have to be careful with this!) can help but of course make sure no nearby components will be damaged by the heat.

If you have access to oxy acetylene or an arc welder you can weld a nut onto the stud.

The last resort of course is to drill the stud out and rethread the hole, with a helicoil insert or similar, but personally that's a job I'd leave to someone with more experience than myself.

 

[Mouse]

On the offside bottom mounting point, the hex thread has been stripped. Is is advisable to welly a slightly larger torx bit into the bolt head and try to get it moving this way?

Assuming you mean that it's an Allen bolt (hex key head) and the hexagonal cutout in the head has been damaged - I'd cut a slot across the head with a hacksaw, and then use an impact driver in it.

An impact driver is a great tool for things like this, but be careful using it on relatively fragile things like alloy cylinder head covers.

 

[BiG DoM]

Re: Re: £$%(* Plastic Cylinder Head Protectors.

Assuming you mean that it's an Allen bolt (hex key head) and the hexagonal cutout in the head has been damaged - I'd cut a slot across the head with a hacksaw, and then use an impact driver in it.

An impact driver is a great tool for things like this, but be careful using it on relatively fragile things like alloy cylinder head covers.

OK - Tok... first go visit your local Sangoma... both for this problem and so he can throw them bones for Saturdays match at Loftus!

Jokes aside... the above suggestion for the allen head is good (the impact driver) - I have also had success taking a torx head socket slightly larger and hammering it into the stripped allen head, then heating the offending bolt (hot air stripper gun is preferable to gas flame) before applying pressure to turn it out.
For the other broken stud easy-out or similar process should work, may need to retap and have an insert fitted. Both these jobs are really not easy in the street and on ones own - my suggestion is to find a smallish engineering works or engine rebuilder and ask them to do it - especially if an insert is needed as they do this all the time and have the right kit. You may luck out and find someone who will do it after hours. Next time you replace them put a little copperslip on the threads. These things happen to even experienced wrenchers and are a pain in the butt!

have a for me.

 

[Mouse]

Re: Re: Re: £$%(* Plastic Cylinder Head Protectors.

Next time you replace them put a little copperslip on the threads.

I definitely second this - I put copper grease (aka copperslip) on pretty much everything whenever I dismantle it.

Another tip to save future pain, is if you ever take your exhaust downpipes off, replace the steel nuts with brass ones - these don't seize onto the steel studs. I had a set of brass nuts (no jokes!) made at a local bike shop for about ten quid (8 nuts, 4 cylinder bike).

 

[Tokoloshe]

Thank you.

Big thanks to all those who have offered a solution.

Tomorrow is the big day & I'm going to have a crack at the b*st*rds.

I have procured an impact wrench & will use gently.

I really appreciate all your advice.

Mr. Hogg..... stand by for action!



please, please may this job go right. just for once......

 

[Fanum]

I have also had success taking a torx head socket slightly larger and hammering it into the stripped allen head, then heating the offending bolt (hot air stripper gun is preferable to gas flame) before applying pressure to turn it out.

Erm........thought the idea was to heat the sourrounding alloy which then expands and helps free the stuf/bolt/whatever???

Mind you, I spose Steel expands slower than the alloy so it would have the same effect.


Don't forget to soak it in wd or duck oil , then have a bacon sarnie, then soak it again, etc etc......drown that puppy!!!

 

[BiG DoM]

Erm........thought the idea was to heat the sourrounding alloy which then expands and helps free the stuf/bolt/whatever???

Mind you, I spose Steel expands slower than the alloy so it would have the same effect.


Don't forget to soak it in wd or duck oil , then have a bacon sarnie, then soak it again, etc etc......drown that puppy!!!

Maybe you got a point - basically the whole area gets hot anyway (especially with heat gun) due to conduction and the two alloys expand hopefully at different rates. I do though reiterate that the heat gun is preferable to flamer thrower which is potentially dangerous and quickly burns paint. The hammering/tapping of such is IMHO also helpful in loosening the
'grip' - certainly why impact drivers can do the job. I have also had success loosening stripped philips head bolts (remember them?) and allens with a small cold chisel and hammer at angle on head. Also old trick.

 

[Iain Hogg]

Re: Thank you.

..... Mr. Hogg..... stand by for action!

Do we take it that "no news is good news"?

How did it go last week, you didn't call so did the job go OK or is the GS now your "rat bike"

Iain