‘M off….bus wnkr hike.

[OnHellas]

Xavi left the Col a couple of minutes before me and inadvertently went the wrong way. I did wonder why I couldn’t see him on the descent.
He caught me up whilst I was filtering some water from one of the many streams.
We walked in to La Mina where Xavi went in a different direction to the GR11 to go and meet a mate.
Thanks Xavi, you were a great help.

I sat in the shade and had some food and figured that as it was only about 4 o’clock I may as well carry on rather than find a place to put the tent up.

The trail followed the river, which was handy as I ran out of water again. It was about 28 degrees and the long day was taking its toll. A section that should have taken about an hour and a quarter took me two hours and I had to face up to the fact that I was done.
Luckily a perfect campsite presented itself right by the river.

Now, did I see the campsite and then run out of energy or run out of energy and then see the campsite.
Whichever, it’s lucky that I stopped as there were no more suitable sites until up and over the Col.

 

[OnHellas]

Overnight thunderstorms and the periodic bongling of bells from the passing cows didn’t bring the best nights sleep and my enthusiasm for the job was quite low.
It stopped raining at about 7.45am so I started to pack up, drying the tent as best I could.
About an hour later I set off for the Col. it took a fair while and it wasn’t until the views of the other side were seen did my spirits lift.
I was starting to get things sorted in my head.

The meadow went on for ages. More water was filtered and a bit later a family caught me up and stopped for a chat. They gave me a cake which makes them alright in my book although one of the blokes had strange shifty eyes…I didn’t like the look of him much…but I still took the cake, obviously.

Next it was, oh surprise surprise, a climb up to a Col. The cloud came in and made navigation a bit more challenging. Three times I had to back track to check on the last marking, twice correcting a mistake.
I met an older French lady who was heading to the same place as me although she was on a different trail, if that makes sense. She said later that she’d struggled with directions up there too.

Destination Refugio Lizara. They had a bed available for me which was a result. It was a result until I saw the room layout. Four sets of bunk beds pushed together, side by side, right together….with only two left to choose from.

Dinner was excellent and I ended up sat with an older English couple who live on the east coast of Scotland. They’ve been hiking together for 50 years and married for just a couple fewer.

Unfortunately/fortunately I don’t have a photographic memory of the bed situation to share with you or keep as a lasting memory for myself. Although I don’t think I’ll forget. I was the last of the 7 of us to climb in to my top bunk. Door closed, light out and sure as eggs is eggs (I’m actually laughing whilst typing this) someone farted!!
The earplugs I had in took that clue away but fuck me it was a quality one!! And no, it wasn’t me.

By the time the smell had dissipated the first of the snorers chimed in. Nice and loud. And then a second.
I had the walk to one side of me and a bloke who, not the smallest of chaps, seemed to sleep all arms and legs and the dividing line of the separate single mattresses seem to go unfelt. I got kicked, elbowed, nudged and, that’s it, nothing else happened, honest!

I knew that this adventure would bring new experiences but sharing a bed with strange men wasn’t one I could have imagined.

 

[G&T]

“Fuck me that was a climb.” I love those words. Why, because you’re in that zone of pleasure and pain, heaven and hell. Well done Sir, you are stronger than you’ll ever realise.

The GR11 is a corker and when the thunder hits and lightning strikes those peaks are going to sing. Enjoy every minute and stuff your face with what the hell you like

 

[OnHellas]

After the scrum of breakfast in the Refugio, which was actually very good, it was a 9am start for me and the Brits I’d spoken to the night before.
They were staying another night so were going up to the second Col on the days GR11 stage before heading back.
They certainly weren’t slow going up. Or if they were then I’m fuckkng slow!
Three Spanish guys came by and we caught them up at the first Col, had a good chat and they said that even though we were in thick clouds that they were going up to the next Col so the couple I’d been with decided to too.
One section had a steel rope bolted to the rocks for pulling yourself up with, another first for me.
When we got to the top the clouds cleared for just a couple of minutes revealing the descent the awaited me. It looked steep.

A bit of food and goodbyes to my new friends and off I went.
It was steep, bloody steep in places! More occasions than I can remember had me stopping to think about my route down from rock to rock.
Navigating was made easier by the clouds that came and went or when it started pissing down, waterproofs on and let the sweltering begin.
The large areas of snow to cross, yes I know I should have crampons, were another challenge. Not only in seeing the next direction marker but in the amount of time it took.
It was about this time that I got a hit of phone coverage, the first in three days.

Anyway, only a couple of brown trouser moments crossing the snow and the ski stations above Candanchu were reached.

At this point I booked somewhere to stay online. An hour later after emails, WhatsApp messages and a phone call I cancelled it. Bugger!
They expected me to travel 30km to Jaca to collect the key!!!
I now have the toing and froing of trying to get my money back. Booking.com said that they will help….

Anyway, a massive downpour saw me a bit wet and wondering where I am was going to sleep. Nevermind that, food first. Luckily that was easy to locate but the only option for accommodation was an Albergue. Shared rooms again.
Not for me so a €20 taxi ride to Canfranc saw me in a hotel.
Bloody hell the night went quickly!

 

[OnHellas]

And that, luckily for you poor reader, brings me to today.

Alarm at 6am. Pack the bag and get sorted in a leisurely fashion before wandering down the road to the bus stop outside Canfranc Station.
Wow, what a building that is.
Having stood at the bus stop for five minutes before I remembered about Johnny Foreigner driving on the wrong side of the road, I crossed over to where the 7.11am bus that would take me, for the princely sum of €1.25, back to Candanchu and the cloud.
Visibility was quite low but I got back on track and headed off.
Down to start with but the of course up again. In some wide fire break type tracks to start with so the first few km’s went by quickly.
Then it started, the climb to the Col.
As my dear departed friend Mr B would say, it went up…and up…and…up.

But, and here’s the thing, well I hope it is anyway, I kind of enjoyed it.
I think that with the help of Xavi and the English couple I’ve got my head around the time it takes.
I’ve done a fair few long distance, multi day walks, but never in terrain like this. Maybe, hopefully, that’s it, and whilst none of this endeavour is going to be easy, maybe my head is finally starting to catch up?

There was the obligatory cloud at the top so no photos I’m afraid, boo, but it was beautiful up there with a large lake with nice cold water flowing in to it. Filter and fill up time.

After that was the descent which was rough but OK, another ski station, some more cows.
I got chased by a mummy cow as she must have seen me as a threat to baby cow. Whilst I stood one side of a bush and her the other, daddy cow came along with another, soon to be, mummy cow and gave her a portion! (You might want to read that again with a Jethro voice ‘cause that’s how I typed it, blood’ did)

Anyway, the Mexican stand off and live cow sex show lasted a few minutes, with the standing off bit did, and I managed to get myself gone, with more than one anxious look over my shoulder and an increased pace despite having walked for about 6 and half hours at that point.

So, Sallent de Gallego, you know about the cold drinks and crisps etc.
That’s it, that’s me up to date.
I’m sleeping indoors again tonight, third bloody floor!!
It’ll be the tent out tomorrow night and probably the next few. The weather doesn’t look to bad and choices may be thin on the ground.

 

[Deleted account 250722001]

Confused.
Lizarra refuge is west of Canfranc.
Sallent de Gallego is east of Canfranc.
I thought you were going West to East?

Splendid effort sir! but do tell which way you are going next?

 

[OnHellas]

Confused.
Lizarra refuge is west of Canfranc.
Sallent de Gallego is east of Canfranc.
I thought you were going West to East?

Splendid effort sir! Which way are you going next?
View attachment 332723

I am going from West to East, hence heading east from Candanchu to Sallent de Gallego.

It looks as though the next few ‘Cicerone’ stages end up at Refugios so no towns. I’m off out now to the shop to stock up on Fuet sausage, wraps, bananas and other stuff.

The tent may see some action for the next few days and that’s why I’m indoors again tonight. I like sleeping in the tent but I’m not desperate to do it all of the time and feel the money spent on accommodation is worth it for the extra niceties, unless your shacked up in a side by side bunk bed as described above of course.

Also, I know that you said in your message that you know of a place near Canfranc Station to ‘hide away’ and camp for the night. That type of thing is not really for me either, sorry. I prefer not to trying to get away with it and possibly get moved on.
Each to their own of course.

 

[dean0n0]

Give it another couple of days and you'll be leaping from rock to rock.

 

[The Other PaulG]

This is fabulous Paul, what an amazing experience. Keep up the excellent report!

 

[OnHellas]

Another update for you.

After some research of snow conditions on the section the day after tomorrow I’m going to be taking an alternative route.

There is still a lot of snow and ice including a very steep section. Whilst it’s only about 50 meters up it at the most difficult point I’m neither equipped, experienced or looking to make the 9 o’clock news.

I don’t have crampons or ice axes and probably wouldn’t know what to do if everything went wrong.

I’d rather have a chance of making to The Mediterranean than have a ride in a helicopter.

More to follow. Time for sleep now.

 

[Ex-Call Centre Chimp]

Blimey, this isn't one's average ramble is it?*
Thanks for sharing the experience with us, it sounds like a heck of a trip and one I'm very much enjoying vicariously.
Chapeau mon ami et bon chance.

* Taxi? Lightweight.

 

[Northern jock]

Sounds great. I've been pondering GR10 or 11 so good to hear how you get on.

Going up hills with a big pack I tend to pace myself either by heart rate or breathing rate. Walk at a speed that has you breathing through your nose, not panting, and you'll have an easy time. And walk at your speed, not someone else's

 

[Ex-Call Centre Chimp]

Not heard from our intrepid adventurer for a while, I hope everything is okay?

 

[OnHellas]

Not heard from our intrepid adventurer for a while, I hope everything is okay?

It kind of is, a bit of a leg issue. Which is a bit of an integral part of the job…..update you later today.

 

[Ex-Call Centre Chimp]

But you're still with us. Phew.

 

[OnHellas]

Yep, I’m still with you.

It’s been a few days since my last confession due to lack of phone signal and general tiredness….so here goes.

I did indeed skip the two stages from Sallent de Gallego to Naños de Panticosa via Refugio Respumosa and instead followed a more sane route via a forest track to Panticosa and then the road to Baños. Still a decent stroll with a healthy elevation gain.

On arrival at the Refugio Casa de Piedras in Baños I had a decent feed and pondered what to do. Should I stay or should I go (now)?
I stayed, which was just as well as camping options on the climb the next morning were non existent. Also I met up with Emma again who I’d met on day two.
She along with a Dutch guy and an American chap had come via the scary snow wall, poorly equipped. She said it was easy but then she is a very experienced young German, ski instructor, outdoorsy type.
The Dutch guy, recently ont of his national Army, slipped, thought he was going to die and had it not been for Emma thinks that he may of done! The American concurred.

My decision to take a different path was made all the more correct at hearing their stories.

Staying in another bunk room however, was not such a good decision. No, there was plenty of room between the bunks but fcuk me, the snoring!!! I ended up getting some sleep in the restaurant area between 2&4 am.
Just what you need for another big walk!

 

[OnHellas]

I was away at 7.05am but before I reached the top of a 3 1/2 plus hour climb the young guns had passed me and having a pic nic at the col when I arrived. I joined them. Very pleasant it was too. A little group was forming. Should I use the Americanism of ‘Tramily’ (trail family)? No, alright then, it is shit. But they have been great to hike with and also a great support to the bloke that’s old enough to be their father…yep, one of those deals.

The descent was steep, the usual narrow twisting path with addition of lots of loose stones. A slip, a spin, a planted walking pole or two and I found myself congratulating me on the quality of the save! Two minutes later I was on my arse….two minutes after that I was on my elbow. There was blood and everything.
My next out loud comment was ‘this is going to get old real quick!’
Thankfully the two falls were the only falls and I reckon that the bloodied elbow give me some mountain kudos…or just reaffirms that I’m outside my comfort zone out here.
After plenty of bolder hoping, river crossings and gradual descent we made it to the next Refugio. It’s called Bujaruela and is in a really nice spot. Tent up, dinner and a shower…after the million school kids had finished and a great nights sleep happened.

 

[OnHellas]

Early awake due to some thickhead leaving their morning alarm going for about half an hour, thanks Rian, meant that I was up and packed up in good time.
I decided to grab breakfast in the Refugio whilst the other got packed and fed. My large pocketed puffy jacket did the job of bringing out half a dozen Magdelena cakes perfectly.

Now, the second slightly dodgy decision to be made was for that nights camping location. We would need two days to traverse the Ordesa National Park where there is only one place that camping is permitted. That is at Refugio Goríz. Except that the Refugio is closed for maintenance and there were plenty of signs to let you know. You can’t stay there. Inside or out.
I’d rather not break too many rules, especially in such special places, places that are protected for good reason, places that not everyone gets to see.
But, what else to do? Again we walked as a group, a longish lunch stop at the park cafe at the end of the road from Torla, including ice cream for the kids, and another long stop in the shade by the river a couple of hours later meant that we didn’t arrive at the Refugio until gone 7pm. There were three other tents there so we all spread out and luckily went un disturbed by anyone of authority.
A good camp dinner, some banter and a good quiet night. Fantastic sleep…my sleeping bag was more comfortable too, I had had it inside out! The zip works much smoother now. I might be the oldest in the group but……
Oh, the muscle in my leg above my left knee, to the right hand side, felt slightly tight. Not surprising really.

And we saw loads of Marmots.

 

[OnHellas]

From 9.45pm, when I zipped up my much improved Sea to Summit sleeping bag, until first light around 5.30/5.45am seemed to take about 3 minutes. Lovely.
We were all packed up, fed and our water containers were brimmed with nice cool filtered water from the nearby river.
The days stage started with a reasonable climb to ease is in to the day followed by a bit of a sketchy descent. Taking your time was definitely the right approach. At the bottom we found a route across the river rather that walk further downstream to a bridge and began the next relentless climb. I should state the obvious here and say that the scenery was just a wow in every direction. How many waterfalls can they fit in one valley?

The ascent started of OK, about what I’ve become used to over the last little while. But, here comes the I’m still here but bit.
I mentioned above the slightly tight muscle in my left leg just above the knee. Well the tightness increased fairly suddenly and brought along its friends, pain and discomfort! Bugger!
Now I’m the slowest of our group of four going up and usual third (fastest?) going down.
Now I was the slowest by a long way. The chaps and chapess took a couple of breaks on the way up and waited for me. Emma leant me a knee brace, I took a couple of Ibuprofen.
The sting in the tail was the savage descent down to Refugio Pineta. It would have been bloody tough if both legs were happy. There were what seemed like a million places to come to grief in the roughly 1400 metre decline over about 3km.
It took me fcuking hours. To be honest I was on the verge of being broken. It wasn’t what I would call a walk. Sliding on scree, scrambling down and up, can you believe it? There were even ups in a descent like that….BASTARDS!!!
Add to that the smaller rocks, roots and ruts hiding under dead leaves….BASTARDS!!!
At one particularly big drop off of some rocks, ironically having to lead with the painful leg, I landed, twisted my right ankle just as the weight of my backpack caught up and I thought I was about to take fall number three, it would have been a bigger one for sure but a friendly, for once, rock and a spindly bush arrested my trajectory. THANK YOU NICE ROCK, THANK YOU NICE BUSH!!!
That is honestly how I felt. After a while resting whilst telling myself, yet again, that there is no choice, I was joined by another chap I’d spent some time with before. I asked him to let the others know that I was OK and still moving downwards.
After about 4 hours I was at the bottom…that just left the mosquito infested swamp and the raging torrent of a river to cross (poetic licence here but that’s how it felt).
Boots and socks off, Xero sandals on, river crossed and I was there. 7pm, knackered, hungry, but there. The guys said that they were going to give it another half an hour and head back up to help me. Very humbling. Human kindness.

Fizzy drinks and chocolate helped but being so tired I knew that my thinking wasn’t as sharp as it usually is. I booked an Hostal in Bielsa for a couple of night to get rested and get my gear cleaned and charged. All good so far. Why when I asked a staff member about taxi information instead of going to the information board myself, I did as I was told and waited until the busy dinner period was over before she could help.
I got a sandwich and charged my phone. We chatted and rested.
Of course at 9pm I got the taxi numbers, four of them, and guess what. One disconnected number, two no answers and one, not at this time of night, sorry. Bugger.
No staff members were heading in to town so I thought I’d start walking and hitch. Before I’d gone a km I said out loud, ‘well, this is a stupid idea!’.
But no, a vehicle, travelling in the right direction, alas it only had two wheels and anyway, the Africa Twin (a new fangled one not a 750) had two people on it. Matching helmets too!

On I walked. I called the hotel to see if they could help. No, we are working, sorry.
I phoned home to let the other half that I was OK but walking 11km in to town and the darkness. She agreed that my decision making was flawed.
By this point I couldn’t see me making it to the Hostal in time for last check in so I called again. Music to my ears. ‘OK, when I am finished here I will come and pick you up’ I described myself as wearing a hat and a red shirt and kept walking. With 6km to go a car came towards me so I switched on the torch on the phone so they could see me and then turned it towards my stylish hat and Rohan shirt. They went by. Bugger!
A couple of minutes later after turning around they were back. A very slightly second hand diesel Peugeot 205 but what a car! It took us in to town, 10.25 pm and I’d made it. Actually before I got in the car I did apologise for the hiker trash smell.
They refused any kind of recompense, just happy to help.

Fcuk Me! What a day that was.
To me at that point this was the best hotel in the world!!

 

[OnHellas]

The picture of the young American coming down the rock was the easier, shorter first descent of yesterday.

To today, after a late night shower and yet more cold drinks I slept very well. Today’s weather has been heavy rain and thunderstorms so I wouldn’t have gone up walking today anyway. Most of the others that I know have stayed down too.

The leg. Rehydration salts, more pills, rest, elevated position on the scatter cushions. It’s alright walking on the flat at a reduced pace but The Pyrenees doesn’t seem to be inundated with flat areas. The Pyrenees Plains….or should that be pains?

I’m going to stay here for a third and maybe fourth night and a couple more days of resting. I can get some more drugs on Monday when the pharmacy is open again.

I don’t want to stop. It would be a shame. I’ve put a lot of effort in covering the 320km ish of the route so far. Only another 530 to go.
On the other hand this job is hard enough without pain every step, and I’m guessing the the pain and swelling won’t magically go away if I try and carry on.

If I have to go home I will be disappointed. But I won’t class it as a failure because I went to the start and gave it a go.
The man in the arena and all that.

I’ll update you in a day or so, keep your fingers crossed for me.

Last thing, why is cramp so fcuking painful but funny at the same time??

Last last thing. Same American in the pic, the start of the BASTARD!!! descent.