► Chains, oilers, sprockets

[Tim Cullis]

Checking and adjusting chain tension

I'm still not happy with the amount of noise coming from the chain area and I think the chain is too slack. According to the manual, there should be 30-40mm chain deflection, however in the area that the manual shows you should measure the deflection there's a plastic guide fixed to the bottom of the swinging arm and this prevents the chain from moving far enough upwards to measure the tension. I can only push it up about 25mm before it hits the guide.

If I measure the deflection far enough back so that the chain doesn't foul the guide it's not in the middle of the two sprockets. Nevertheless the deflection here is about 35mm. Ergo my belief that were the plastic guide not in place the deflection in the middle would be in excess of 40mm. I've left a message with the dealer so will update this later.

Then on to another problem... The quick-release axle nut is 24mm, far bigger than any of the sockets or spanners that I own. It needs tightening to 100 Nm and my torque wrench only goes to 80. One of Lidl's specials this week is a £6.99 spanner set which goes up to 24mm, so at least I can get the nut undone. All I need now is a 24mm socket with 3/8 drive to fit the torque wrench.

Tim

 

[chrisjk]

Tim,
I am of the same mind as you - ie the chain needs adjusting but I can't measure deflection as advertised.

On the 800 at least, there is a significant tightening of the chain when one sits on the bike, so it will be important not to overtighten the chain when the bike is riderless and on the centre stand.

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

Better to be too loose than too tight

With 20mm on top run and 25mm on bottom, I'd leave it

 

[Tim Cullis]

Chain tight spots and clatter

I've adjusted the chain very slightly, but found that there's a huge difference in the amount of slack at different points along the chain. I've loosened it off again so that at the tightest point it's 30mm deflection.

Is this normal?

And yes, the chain has been properly lubricated, the bike has a Scottoiler fitted.

Tim

Edit: been researching elsewhere and found these (on a Honda forum). I think chain clatter is what I've been experiencing.

I rotated the back wheel until the chain was at its tightest, then adjusted the slack to minimum specification, 1.5' of free play. *Worked fine, except that chain chatter reared its ugly head, then grew progressively worse over the next several weeks

I reckon there are at least 3 spots where the chain runs too tight (only about 10mm movement) when the loosest part of the chain is adjusted to the correct movement. If I adjust the chain to an 'average' setting then the power takeup snatch from the loose areas of the chain makes the bike horrible to ride.

 

[Shep]

I've adjusted the chain very slightly, but found that there's a huge difference in the amount of slack at different points along the chain. I've loosened it off again so that at the tightest point it's 30mm deflection.

Is this normal?

And yes, the chain has been properly lubricated, the bike has a Scottoiler fitted.

Tim

Uneven wear is an indicator that the chain is on its way out, you've done the right thing though, but fit a quality chain when this one is shot and you should see much better milage from the chain and sprockets

Shep

 

[Tim Cullis]

The bike has only done 2500 miles and I've had these concerns since before the first service which was carried out at about 900 miles. The bike is under warranty so I'm not about to pay for a non-BMW chain.

I don't know if what I'm experiencing is chain slap, but that was the expression that came to mind. When the bike is neither accelerating nor decelerating there's a slapping noise from the chain area and a vibration through the right foot rest.

I mentioned it to the dealer before the 600 mile service and I happened to watch (through the customer viewing window) the mechanic carefully checking the chain.

The noise continued. I put the bike on the centre stand and ran it in gear and the noise level is frightening (to me).

 

[Gipsy]

Elvie is just about to take her bike in for it's 6,000 mile service, but it has done nearer 7,000 mikes, the last 4,500 miles on her replacement chain and sprockets. This one seems better, and didn't need adjusting while we were away, but did notice one small tight spot. For those such as Tim who will be venturing into the wilderness, a premium brand after market chain may well be the way to go.

 

[twisticles]

Hmm I am experiencing the same thing as Tim. I've also covered a miserly 2500 miles. Up to about 2000 miles the chain seemed fine, but now its all over the shop. About 45mm play in the loose spots and 10mm in the tight spots.

Obviously it needs a new chain ASAP.

It can't be right, after only 2500 miles. I've had chains that didn't even need adjusting after 8000 miles with a scottoiler. Even before the scottoiler I was religious about lubrication - every tuesday night after its bath

You think there is any chance of a warranty claim?

 

[Tim Cullis]

Mine's quickly got worse. 'All over the shop' is an excellent description. I have 2500 on the clock and am just about to leave for a week in the Pyrenees and France. Unless it somehow miraculously improves I shall be asking for a new chain under warranty on my return.

Tim

 

[Wizard]

what's the best chain oil to use?

I purchased an aerosol from Halfords that just appears to cover the chain in foam and then blows all over the rest of the bike!!!

Dry lub is the job You can get Profi Dry Lube from your local Hein Gericke.

Dust and crud stick to oil, wax etc., and create your very own grinding paste.

 

[jimbob59]

Some ideas / suggestions...

I've been riding for a long time, and have found on my bikes two causes of this problem:

1) The chain was actually defective in that several consecutive links were apparently not lubricated at the factory during assembly. Since the chains are o-ring the lack of lubrication can not be corrected (easily...)

How to tell: Remove the chain from the bike, lubricate it if needed then pull the chain over a horizontal smallish diameter item -- like the top bar of a fence, your finger or whatever or just work each link by hand ... all links should move with the same amount of ease -- pretty easy except for a bit of drag from the o-rings. If you find a tight spot get the chain replaced. As the tight spot(s) go around the sprokets the slack in the chain is reduced as the tight sections stay straighter and to not "wrap" around the sprockets as well.

2) Alignment issues - On bikes as new as these there really should not be any alignment issues, but sight down the top and bottom of the chain from the back and confirm that the chain has a straight shot with sprocket faces parallel to the chain sideplates & etc... a straight edge can help... you may have to remove some guards to get a good visual ... Check that the tension adjusters are set correctly so that the rear wheel is not cocked...

3) sprocket damage - If a sprocket tooth is bent that can cause the issue ... this would typically only happen in a crash or if a rock got caught between chain and sprocket.... careful inspection of sprockets will tell you... if bent the bent tooth will be "polished" more than the others since the chain will be rubbing on it harder... check both sides of both sprockets all the way around the circumference!

My best to all you UKers, I'm stuck here in the colonies still waiting for mine to arrive!

Jim

 

[samuelsnow]

I'm off to Morocco end of September for 3000+ miles including piste etc. My bike has its first service next week and I'm thinking that whatever happens regarding the chain I may just replace it with a HQ aftermarket one for the trip.

It's a shame BMW don't fit the standard of parts they used to. I had a 1996 F650 funduro and the first time I serviced it I took it to a guy who only had experience of the Aprilia Pegaso (pretty much the same bike by Aprilia). When he handed it back he was well impressed and said its like the Aprilia but all the parts that really mattered BMW had replaced really high quality parts! Sign of the times I guess!

 

[jimbob59]

Most likely it is the chain but "assuming" it has a master link (my bike is still in Germany so I'm not clear on that but I assume it has a link...) it is not hard to confirm that the chain is to blame.

I have a spare worn out chain that I keep on hand and I link the old chain to the new chain and then with bike in netural I can pull the in-use chain off the bike while pulling the worn out chain onto the front sprocket.

Inspect chain and when you are ready to put it back (or a good working replacement ) hook it to the old chain pull it around and button it up... this method avoids having to manually thread the chain around the front counter sprocket ... maybe this is not much of a trick and everybody else know this already but I offer it up FWIW...

Jim

As previously mentioned, the BMW chain is factory joined, and you have to remove the swing-arm to replace it. Unless you get an aftermarket 525/116 chain and an anglegrinder

I have used the Dremel type tool to grind off the end of a pin, then used the chain breaker to push the pin out... of course now you need a plan to "re-assemble" ...

I'm coming from a low HP bike where a master link with a keeper is used but understand the higher HP bikes sometimes use staked master link?

For the purpose of inspecting the chain you might be able to get enough slack in it by just moving the rear adjusters all the way in?

Jim

 

[Micky]

Now done 8,000 + miles, no Scotoiler, just use an occasional spray with a chain spray I found in Polo, Germany

Been using it now for some 5,000 + miles, absolutely does not fling off and cover the 'bike in grease blobs,, remains greasy on the rollers, Polo does chain sprays at half the price, but this one get's all the best write ups'n reviews in the German mags.

The back of the 'bike looks like it belongs to a shaft drive model... keeps nice'n clean

 

[Keethy]

Got some "Muc off" lube from Hal Frauds which seems similar to description of the Polo stuff. Only done 3.5k so far though.

 

[twisticles]

Like Elvie, I had a new chain and sprockets fitted yesterday at only 2,300 miles.
I was pretty religious about lubing and checking tension, and the chain suddenly deteriorated in the last 300 miles or so. Some loose spots over 50mm and some tight spots under 10mm!

Replaced by dealer no questions asked. Dealer also replaced the Ring Antennae on recall, tightened the side stand and the radiator hose. Big props to South London Motorrad

After 24 hours with the 1200GS, I am even more convinced about the 800.

 

[forestry]

CLS chain oiler.

I had a CLS200 electronic oiler fitted to my 800 proir to a 3000 mile trip through Norway.
Well pleased with it, I got mine through Border Bikes. System can be seen at www.onlineshop.cls200.de

 

[Tim Cullis]

I couldn't get to a dealer at 2500 miles before leaving for the Pyrenees, so loosened the chain so that the amount of deflection was 35mm at the tightest spot. By the time I arrived in the Pyrenees the tight spot had got worse and I could identify the link that was substandard by rotating the rear wheel backwards and watching the action. So the chain got loosened some more.

The bike's now done 4500 miles. I took it last week to Cooper Tunbridge Wells. The mechanic did confirm the chain was knackered but then tried to persuade me that a developing tight spot doesn't actually tighten the chain and tried to place the blame on the adjustment carried out at the 600 mile service by Bahnstormers. What the feck?

He also said that all chains have tight spots and tried to demonstrate this on new bikes undergoing PDI. He said it was important to adjust per the manual with the deflection measured at the tight spot. But the owner's manual doesn't mention tight spots at all.

I am awaiting a warranty decision, but in the meantime am most unimpressed.

Tim

 

[twisticles]

I had a CLS200 electronic oiler fitted to my 800 proir to a 3000 mile trip through Norway.
Well pleased with it, I got mine through Border Bikes. System can be seen at www.onlineshop.cls200.de

I have the 800-specific scottoiler fitted...didn't seem to help the chain though! There must be a duff batch out there...

 

[sijohnston]

chain has done 8000 and is perfect. lubed every 1000 miles or after the rain and taken off and cleaned down, greased and remounted at BMW dealer in slovenia. imagine will be changed at 12k miles although don't know what the shelf-life is supposed to be on one of these?