sijohnston
Registered user
was this the 24k service? do you ever sleep or are you in Australia? (looking at the time of your posts)
ide508
Registered user
It all depends of you're height...I also noticed that the top of the forks are different. Back in March the piece on top was flush with the clamps. Today they are 0.5cm above the the clamp???
Does this change anything?
When I bought my "old" 96 Funduro the picture was the same.
The guy just raised it to the max height and no problems... in fact, no problem at all. it has nothing to do with "how will perform" you're suspension "Juste la hauteur" of you're "driving wheel
Cheers
Bernard
Don't know why this answer doesn't appears as it should be
Jon,
As I have found out recently, the dealer I use (SLM) knows sweet FA about the suspension. One thing for example - the service manual specifies that the forks should be set so that they are 7.8mm above the triple clamp - which is where the index line on each fork leg is located incidentally. SLM didn't know this and a check at two other dealerships in my area revealed that they were also ignorant, with several brand new bikes having the forks flush with the top of the triple clamp and others at various levels.
Your July 2009 photo appears to show the RHS fork just showing the index line, as per manual.
Of course, forks can be moved up and down to a degree to get the steering response etc, that one desires but you'd think the dealers should know where the mfr. recommends they be set initially.
As to your forks' behaviour, if in doubt, I'd suggest you first query the dealer and then if unhappy, either service them yourself or take the bike to a specialist.
My fork damping behaviour is pretty good, it sounds as if you don't have the right oil/amount of oil in yours for effective damping, or some seal is blown. As they are non-adjustable, there's not a lot that can be wrong.
As I have found out recently, the dealer I use (SLM) knows sweet FA about the suspension. One thing for example - the service manual specifies that the forks should be set so that they are 7.8mm above the triple clamp - which is where the index line on each fork leg is located incidentally. SLM didn't know this and a check at two other dealerships in my area revealed that they were also ignorant, with several brand new bikes having the forks flush with the top of the triple clamp and others at various levels.
Your July 2009 photo appears to show the RHS fork just showing the index line, as per manual.
Of course, forks can be moved up and down to a degree to get the steering response etc, that one desires but you'd think the dealers should know where the mfr. recommends they be set initially.
As to your forks' behaviour, if in doubt, I'd suggest you first query the dealer and then if unhappy, either service them yourself or take the bike to a specialist.
My fork damping behaviour is pretty good, it sounds as if you don't have the right oil/amount of oil in yours for effective damping, or some seal is blown. As they are non-adjustable, there's not a lot that can be wrong.
everywherevirtually
Registered user
I agree. I should also look at my bike-porn-cd
. I would like to think that it will bed in but with nowhere for the oil to go I cant see how it could improve the ride. It is quite harsh and the feedback from even minor bumps is quite strong. Strong enough to unsettle me a few times today. Up on the pegs and sat down. I've wanted some hyperpro's for a long time and this would add to my desire to get them. It has to go in for a recall a week on Saturday so I'll ask them then. Si I don't sleep.I'm 'everywhere virtually' I have a user name and website I have to live up to.
The seals are good Chris. I reckon it's just too much oil in the forks. If I could somehow alter the amount in a way similar to reducing the fluid in the brake reservoirs then that would be good. i.e dip a paper towel in to draw some off. Having not looked at my pike porn CD yet and or looked into the fork assembly I can't comment further with authority yet.
Jon,
I was actually thinking of an internal seal or shim in the damping rod assembly. Your description of bouncing off bumps suggested a possible lack of damping rather than too much.
I was actually thinking of an internal seal or shim in the damping rod assembly. Your description of bouncing off bumps suggested a possible lack of damping rather than too much.
As to this "bouncing off bumps" ... I suspect they all do that!
Mine does, some people just notice it more than others... trying hyperpro springs tomorrow.
A reminder if you drop your forks down to the the line at 7.8mm ... remember to adjust your headlight!
Mine does, some people just notice it more than others... trying hyperpro springs tomorrow.
A reminder if you drop your forks down to the the line at 7.8mm ... remember to adjust your headlight!
ZZ10
Registered user
Is the July picture the correct setting? I had to tighten the fork bolts as they where to loose from factory, the forks where moving with different settings on each side as result.
everywherevirtually
Registered user
Ducksbane it didn't do it before. I've ridden 19000 very comfortable miles so I really know what feels right and what doesn't. On big drops it had a tendency to bottom out. Now I would say it's the opposite. I'm going down the hyperpro route as soon as I can. The headlight is already angled quite low as it's a HID so no worries there.
the July setting I have now discovered is the correct setting. So that means it was set incorrectly from the factory... or if the forks are not already assembled onto the bike by the time it reaches the dealer in a box... at the dealer.
Sorry EWV ... guilty of not fully reading your post (Just a simple Aussie afterall)
You should probably ask the dealer what sort of oil ; Brand Viscocity, etc they put in and how much. You can check the levels of the oil in the forks quite easily, perhaps they are wrong.
Will post here once I try the Hyperpro's
Check out this link: http://www.4strokes.com/tech/ktm/forkoil.asp
sv969
Guest
Here's a pic from the BMW Service Manual DVD.
The actual height the forks should protrude from the top bridge is 7.8mm
By raising the forks to this (the correct) specification has 2 effects...
(1) it increases the load on the forks making them feel less harsh.
(2) it reduces the wheelbase and improves the turn-in.
Doesn't look much, but you can feel the effects.
With regards to fork oil. The service manual states: 765ml per leg, with an SAE of 7.5. The air gap is 60mm (Forks fully compressed, spring removed, spacer installed)
The actual height the forks should protrude from the top bridge is 7.8mm
By raising the forks to this (the correct) specification has 2 effects...
(1) it increases the load on the forks making them feel less harsh.
(2) it reduces the wheelbase and improves the turn-in.
Doesn't look much, but you can feel the effects.
With regards to fork oil. The service manual states: 765ml per leg, with an SAE of 7.5. The air gap is 60mm (Forks fully compressed, spring removed, spacer installed)
could it be you've worn badly over the 19000 miles and that's the problem?
ZZ10
Registered user
Thanks!
everywherevirtually
Registered user
Thanks for the link Ducksbane. A simple Aussie... is there such a thing
Here's a pic from the BMW Service Manual DVD.
The actual height the forks should protrude from the top bridge is 7.8mm
By raising the forks to this (the correct) specification has 2 effects...
(1) it increases the load on the forks making them feel less harsh.
(2) it reduces the wheelbase and improves the turn-in.
Doesn't look much, but you can feel the effects.
With regards to fork oil. The service manual states: 765ml per leg, with an SAE of 7.5. The air gap is 60mm (Forks fully compressed, spring removed, spacer installed)
Thanks SV969. I am now noticing a slight easing of the harshness so could I have been premature in my assessment and they just needed to bed in. That said where would the oil go in order for the properties of the steering to normalise.
could it be you've worn badly over the 19000 miles and that's the problem?
I'm threadbare mate
alimey4u2
Registered user
I "tuned" my forks on my other bike by mixing different viscosities (of the same oil) until it liked it.... 
Hyperpro progresive springs
As promised ... an update on the hyperpro front fork springs.
After I firmed up the rear with more preload and rebound damping I have to say that I am quite happy with the Hyperpro's.
The following is based on just replacing the fork springs, I haven't found the magic fork oil specs yet, so I expect some improvement when I do.
The biggest plus is that on twisty bitumen the forks don't dive nearly as much and are less "sudden" if you grab a big handful of brake.
On gravel and off road they seem better, as long as you are reasonably aggressive. I went for a long ride today which included a forest road with big potholes and erosion. At one point there was a very deep (probably 250mm+) and wide square sectioned erosion gully right across the road which we hit at fairly high speed. The 1200's I was with all bottomed hard, including the GSA with Ohlins, but my 800 just sucked it up and didn't bottom.
I don't claim that my 800GS is now KTM like, but, if they came from the factory like this I wouldn't be unhappy ... it's not great, but its not too bad.
Now to find the mystical fork oil specs and consider whether hyperpro springs for the rear are a good idea.
As promised ... an update on the hyperpro front fork springs.
After I firmed up the rear with more preload and rebound damping I have to say that I am quite happy with the Hyperpro's.
The following is based on just replacing the fork springs, I haven't found the magic fork oil specs yet, so I expect some improvement when I do.
The biggest plus is that on twisty bitumen the forks don't dive nearly as much and are less "sudden" if you grab a big handful of brake.
On gravel and off road they seem better, as long as you are reasonably aggressive. I went for a long ride today which included a forest road with big potholes and erosion. At one point there was a very deep (probably 250mm+) and wide square sectioned erosion gully right across the road which we hit at fairly high speed. The 1200's I was with all bottomed hard, including the GSA with Ohlins, but my 800 just sucked it up and didn't bottom.
I don't claim that my 800GS is now KTM like, but, if they came from the factory like this I wouldn't be unhappy ... it's not great, but its not too bad.
Now to find the mystical fork oil specs and consider whether hyperpro springs for the rear are a good idea.
Micky,
Can you tell us exactly what the changes involved? Is the front suspension now adjustable?
Can you tell us exactly what the changes involved? Is the front suspension now adjustable?
Unfortunately the front suspension still not adjustable, but it's so good now to be quite honest being none adjustable aint a problem. With being USD forks they're a bit more complicated to change the springs, but the instructions that come with the Wilbers are quite comprehensive and if you had a Meccano as a kid you'll have no probs.
I like my suspension fairly soft, but when properly damped I think it gives the best ride/handling. The F800GS as standard certainly had better suspension than my 1200GS-A ever did. I rode a new 1200GS-A Saturday and my 800GS is certainly better than that, even though it did have ESA
I like my suspension fairly soft, but when properly damped I think it gives the best ride/handling. The F800GS as standard certainly had better suspension than my 1200GS-A ever did. I rode a new 1200GS-A Saturday and my 800GS is certainly better than that, even though it did have ESA
Micky,
Thanks.
Thanks.
ninjasquaddie
Guest
My clonking has now gone.
It was the head bearings, just as I suspected.
Thanks for NOTHING Vines.
It was the head bearings, just as I suspected.
Thanks for NOTHING Vines.
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