► Wheel bearing failures

[GS Biker]

This may be a silly question but I assume one would need 4No of these bearings to replace the existing? 2No for the front and 2No for the back?

After bashing around walters arena on the weekend, my rear has started to squeak................I think its time for a replacement that i will try on me own.....

Advice is welcomed!

 

[SKON]

Thanks Greggers
Ordered a pair of the higher spec ones,standard fitting.
Really cant be a**ed to wait until Im in the middle of nowhere to discover that BMW have skimped on yet another cheap but vital piece of running gear!
If you can be bothered a run through of your bearing change,(tips,probs,fotos etc) would be very useful to the machanically challenged

Good luck with it
SKON

 

[SKON]

Ah Ha!

This may be a silly question but I assume one would need 4No of these bearings to replace the existing? 2No for the front and 2No for the back?

After bashing around walters arena on the weekend, my rear has started to squeak................I think its time for a replacement that i will try on me own.....

Advice is welcomed!

GS,thats what I was wandering myself! Do I need to order another 2 (thats 4 in all) in order to do both wheels.I do realise I probably sound like a numpty

 

[Tim Cullis]

Check the link to the parts fiche on post #22

 

[SKON]

Check the link to the parts fiche on post #22

Thanks very much Tim Order updated,to 4!

I realise you were one of the intrepid pioneers who found themselves victim of aforementioned penny pinching on vital parts Hats off to you sir
I hope all is well now

 

[Greggers]

AFAIK there is no dimensional reference on the part number - the dimensions I gave came from the reference that someone else posted ... I hope they're right
Are the fronts the same as the rears? Again, I haven't checked part numbers ...

 

[bighair]

All these bearings ?

Hi
Can i ask anyone who has more than one set of bearings go in short mileage .
Have you or the dealer checked the preload spacer to see if it is the correct length ?
I would if mine bearings were only lasting a short while , it sounds like a manufacturing fault or change of supplier of the spacer to me.
Thats my 2 bobs worth.

 

[SKON]

If you check out the link in Tims` post (No.20 this thread), it seems Woody has got to the root of these early failures.However things seem to be made worse due to the use of very poor quality OE bearings.They seem to allow the ingress of water,grit etc and to be pooly greased.This resulting in rusting and general deterioration sooner than is to be expected in a `quality` motorcycle,marketed as an all terrain adventure bike.My 2 bobs worth

 

[SKON]

AFAIK there is no dimensional reference on the part number - the dimensions I gave came from the reference that someone else posted ... I hope they're right
Are the fronts the same as the rears? Again, I haven't checked part numbers ...

Greggers,if you check this link
http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51598
You`ll find that those dimensions ARE correct
(click on No 36 wheels and tyres,then click on the thumbnail.you`ll get a diagram and parts list with dimensions)

 

[Greggers]

From Tim's post #22...

Here's a link to the BMW parts fiche, look under wheels and tyres. The specification for the bearing are 20x47x14 whatever that means. The F650/800GS rear wheel bearings that I have here are brand name FAG and part number CB140159P.

French for rear wheel bearing is 'roulement de roue arriere'.

Just checked this - the fiche says 20x47x14 .... which is as I thought, 20mm inner diameter (axle diameter) 47mm outer diameter (the diameter of the bearing seat in the hub) and 14mm which is the bearing's thickness ..

Greg

 

[bighair]

Wheel hub or spacer

Hi again
Sorry for my early post did not read all the postings missed Greggers comments on the spacer issue .
What about the Hubs the seats for bearings as well are they consistant ?
Whatever the easy fix would be a new spacer or shim to give correct spacing plus quality sealed bearing.
At least you all appear to have a bearing spacer which was not the case a few years ago on my friends Gsxr 1100 which was brand new and never had a spacer and it did 150 miles before they gave up the ghost.

 

[lunchbox]

Thanks for all the info on this thread guys (esp Greggers for the links). I have the LH rear wheel bearing running a bit rough so think it best to replace all four as I have the wheels out. C3 bearings are for v. high temp running and are not necessary for motorcycles, (according to the Simply Bearings website info page). The 6204RSL is low friction but not such a good seal for muck etc and best for racing. I am going with the standard 6204RSH.

I see from the Mac fiche that the rear oil seals and the front left are 30x47x7, but the front right is 25x47x7, but does anyone know if they are garter sprung or not? Also has anyone had trouble with the rear hub bearing 07119981221 (also a 6204RS) as I have just noticed that is rough too? Simply Bearings seems to be a good website by the way.

 

[lunchbox]

Can anyone help?

Can anyone confirm how many bearing there are in the rear drive hub (sprocket coupling not rear wheel)? The fiche only shows one but my Haynes manual talks about there being two. I can only feel one with my fingers, but want to order the replacements before I have time to take the old ones out. Any advice would be gratefully received (including which kind of oil seal from my last post). Cheers.

 

[lunchbox]

As I appear to be the only one on this thread I can now confirm to myself that there is only one bearing in the rear drive hub and one oil seal. So there are three 20x47x14 bearings and two 30x47x7 seals in the rear wheel/hub fitting (the RH inner bearing has no oil seal). The seals are garter sprung type.

I ordered 3x SKF 6204-2RSH bearings (made in Bulgaria so fingers crossed) and 2x garter sprung oil seals, for £26.12 (incl postage) from Simply Bearings yesterday afternoon at 4pm and they arrived today at 2pm - not bad service!

http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p6...ove+Ball+Bearing+20x47x14mm/product_info.html

 

[chrisjk]

Don't neglect to pop the seals off and top up the grease in there already - they are usually only lightly coated and can use more.

 

[Greggers]

Sorry 'Box ... I've only just picked this up ...

I've looked at the manual (yeah I know it's too late now!) but you're right.

What I don't recall seeing before though is the spacer/thrust tube that goes between the sprocket carrier and the wheel hub - I'm going to do all my bearings this week so will check then - it's probably retained by the seal so not immediately obvious...

Cost wise - I got 4 NTN bearings for £12.00 from my local bearing factor, seals will prolly be a coupla notes each ...

Cheers

Greg

 

[lunchbox]

Hello world

Chris do you not think that packing the bearing might lead to leakage due to heat expansion and centrifugal force at speed? I don't know and can't remember the last time I had to change a bearing (1980 something?)

Greg do you mean part 24 33117679359 BUSHING, INSIDE on the fiche? If so I think you will find this is retained inside the sprocket hub and can only be got out once the bearing is removed. Haynes suggest moving it aside to drift out the outer bearing (then using a socket drift to remove the inner but we have already established there is no inner!). Sounds OK so far. Any idea if the rear wheel bearings can be got out without a puller or slide hammer? The inner spacer P) seems to move enough to get a drift in maybe but is there a better way?

I shan't have time to do mine until Sunday at the earliest so keep me informed about how you get on.

 

[Tim Cullis]

+1 for Chris, pack the bearing.

 

[StumpyFingers]

+2 for packing the bearings.
They come with very little grease and this is what speeds up the wear.
Making sure there is sufficient grease in the bearing when they are new does help them last a lot longer.

 

[lunchbox]

Pack the bearings it is then!