1100 gs conks out when idle......

ken

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hello all,
i bought an 1100gs (1996) last year, it had 79000 km and i put up another 8000 km without any problems.
because im new to the all this (the gs being my first bike) i brought her to a bmw garage to get it fully serviced and to inspect all aspects of the bike just in case of any un noticed problems.they said it was a good bike with one exception of a diy insalation for heated grips which isnt very pretty but works .
this was at the end of october , i parked her for the winter (starting her up often - 2 or 3 times a week)
now that im driving again , the bike is not turnig over well.
when idle , it sputers and conks out , hot or cold.
when im slowing down and down changing gears it back fires very often.
i live in the alps at 1400 meters altitude, good roads with lots of hairpin bends , usely i use 3rd gear for a lot of bends but find myself having to down change because the bike sputers (3000 rpm) and i double corner.
its just as i accelerate to round the corner at a comfortable speed , its like the engine is drowning for a split secound.
i going to bring hero bmw but if there is any advice for a novice like me ,i would be greatfull.
ken ..........
 
this is done, 500 km ago at bmw grenoble
just to add , my feul consumption has more tha doubled (13.8 litres per 100 km)

sorry for the typing errors and the spelling................
 
Have you got the original bmw exhaust or aftermarket pipe?

I have same symptoms on my 1150 (although not at altitude), the fuelling is a bit rough below 2500rpm with an open pipe - may put the cat and orig pipe back on.
 
Have you got the original bmw exhaust or aftermarket pipe?

I have same symptoms on my 1150 (although not at altitude), the fuelling is a bit rough below 2500rpm with an open pipe - may put the cat and orig pipe back on.

yes , its the original pipe .........
 
Hi Ken,when you took it for a service,did they set up the mixture with the CO2 adjuster properly?.That may account for the dreadful fuel consumption.
A figure of 50MPG (80Km/4.5L) should be easily acheivable by an 1100.
 
they adjusted the co2 at the service and i supose the tps can only be checked out by bmw ??

Put a voltmeter set on mV (DC). between terminal 1 and 4, (poke them in:thumb), turn the ignition on and it should read around 371mV. open the throttle slowly and see if the voltmeter moves.
 
On my 1150 similar symptoms pointed at problems with the spark plug connectors - the equivalent part on the 1100GS is No. 2 on the diagram below

B0000282.png


Worth a check of those, perhaps.
 
Don't leave stationary when running

i parked her for the winter (starting her up often - 2 or 3 times a week)


How long did you let her idle? Its not a good idea to let these engines idle stationary for long. :augie
Heat build affects the coils etc. etc.(been said many times i know):beerjug:
 
i parked her for the winter (starting her up often - 2 or 3 times a week)


How long did you let her idle? Its not a good idea to let these engines idle stationary for long. :augie
Heat build affects the coils etc. etc.(been said many times i know):beerjug:

im aware of this error, having read a few threads and seen the damage on photo's displayed( thank you ukgsr , helps even novices like me by learning from other peoples mistakes ! )
some times i left her running for five minutes but a lot of the times i had a quick spin , not to much snow this winter.....
 
On my 1150 similar symptoms pointed at problems with the spark plug connectors - the equivalent part on the 1100GS is No. 2 on the diagram below

B0000282.png


Worth a check of those, perhaps.

im back from the dealer today,
first of all we changed the petrol from 95 to 98 octane, ( they said that the new 95 e 10 with ten per cent vegetable oil is not good for the engine ).
that did not work.
then they changed the spark plugs.
that did not work.
then they checked the tps.
all good there.
then checked the coils
all good there as well.
so they changed the left spark plug connector and re adjusted the co2 and it runs a great deal better however it still backfires, allthough a lot less, and sputters a bit when the engine is not realy under strain and is around 3000 to 4000 rpm .
so thanks all for the advice and if ye have any ideas for the persisting problem that would be great.
ken
 
May be worth searching for "cat code plug" (CCP) settings.I'm not positive,but i think you can change ignition/fuel mapping on the 1100 like you can on the 1150 to allow for poor fuel/high elevation and non-standard exhausts.
Did the garage set the valve clearances and rocker end float?.Properly adjusted makes a big difference to pickup/smoothness/noise etc.
Can you measure the cylinder pressure to see if within spec.
Another possible cause might be the "crankshaft position sensors";the Hall Effect sensors at the front of the motor.Cracked wiring can give odd errors,but the garage "experts" should have checked them out.
Finally,are the sparkplugs the right colour?.
 
May be worth searching for "cat code plug" (CCP) settings.I'm not positive,but i think you can change ignition/fuel mapping on the 1100 like you can on the 1150 to allow for poor fuel/high elevation and non-standard exhausts.
Did the garage set the valve clearances and rocker end float?.Properly adjusted makes a big difference to pickup/smoothness/noise etc.
Can you measure the cylinder pressure to see if within spec.
Another possible cause might be the "crankshaft position sensors";the Hall Effect sensors at the front of the motor.Cracked wiring can give odd errors,but the garage "experts" should have checked them out.
Finally,are the sparkplugs the right colour?.

funnly enough when they hooked it up the computer indicated the 2 hall sensors were not working but the engine was ticking over ???????
i watched them verify several aspects of the engine with a strobing light , a co2 check and also they hooked up a machine to each throttle body (something to do with decompression and syncronisation).
what do you mean by the colour of the spark plugs ?????????
its terrible not to understand the mechanics of this bike but i suppose everybody has to start sometime.
 
what do you mean by the colour of the spark plugs ?????????
its terrible not to understand the mechanics of this bike but i suppose everybody has to start sometime.

This link will help explain :thumb2

http://www.verrill.com/moto/sellingguide/sparkplugs/plugcolorchart.htm[/QUOTE]

thanks for the link,
the sparkplugs looked new and clean, i did less than a 1000km since they were changed last and the mechanic said that they seemed in good condition but just in case there was a problem not visible he changed them......
 


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