1150 adventure top case locks

[lennythelion]

I've just bought a nice shiny original 1150 alloy topcase for my 1150 GSA from a forum member to replace my battered original.Can anyone on here tell me how to swap the locks over please.It's looking like i may have to drill out the rivets to remove them ,but I don't want to do this unless completely necessary.I've done a search on here and google with no joy.Thanks in advance.Len.

 

[Jon]

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showth...uminium-pannier-lock-recoding-to-ignition-key

Someone asked just recently

 

[majaem]

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showth...uminium-pannier-lock-recoding-to-ignition-key

Someone asked just recently

Hi Jon, it was me who asked but couldn't do it. As sad as that sounds. I sold the box to Len and tried removing them prior to sending it but it beat me as well.

So if anyone can help Len out I'd appreciate it.

 

[Jon]

Did you sell it with a key? If you did it really is easy - I'll take a pic of where the hole is at the base of the barrel over the weekend & post it - unless someone else can do it.
The 'hole' is on the inside of the lock - unlock the box where it fits on the bike (not the lid) & pull the lock out to 'open'. Look inside on the lock side and it's right at the bottom.

Hopefully a pic will say a 1000 words!

 

[lennythelion]

This was really easy when I re keyed my 1200 GSA box locks but the 1150 ones are very different.A pic would be really useful
Thanks to all.

 

[Jon]

Okay, I've had a play to make sure I could do it &taken some pics..............standby

 

[Jon]

Once you know how, this is a fairly easy job.
You’ll need;
The lock key
Either a pick, small jewellers screwdriver
I use an old broken jewellers screwdriver
This is written assuming you’re removing the lock that secures the pannier/topbox to the bike. The Pannier lid lock procedure is the same, but the pictures are of the lock stated above.
Open your lock. The red circle is the area we’re interested in.

 

[Jon]

You’ll see a collar at the top of the lock (arrowed). This is where you’ll be working.
Turn the key about 45degrees, as if you were engaging the lock and you should see a hole/gap in it.

 

[Jon]

Carry on turning the key to the lock position (it’s a 90deg turn to lock/unlock) - We’re interested in the other side. You should be able to just see a lock wafer circled . I ended up taking the pannier/box off the bike and laying it on its side as I found it easier.

 

[Jon]

Take your tool/implement or whatever you’re using and push the wafer down/in – you’ll be using both hands to remove the lock – I was trying to take pics at the same time

 

[Jon]

Holding the wafer ‘in’ and turn the key slightly until the wafer is held ‘in’ by the lock mechanism. Gently pull the key out and the lock SHOULD come with it – you don’t want the wafers going everywhere.

 

[Jon]

Carefully remove the lock – the wafer sticking out is the one that secures the lock in place when you replace it.

 

[Jon]

When you’ve finished re-coding or whatever, replacing the lock is fairly simple;
Key in lock
Place the lock in barrel but hold the bottom wafer in so you can place it so it’s held in by one of the 4 bits of plastic

 

[Jon]

The lock should look like this, with the wafer held in place;

 

[Jon]

Not like the pic below;

It’s fairly easy, as if the wafer isn’t held in place, you won’t be able to reseat the lock.
Push the lock barrel home and turn the key, you should hear/feel a click as the wafer engages.
Pull the key out slowly – if all is okay, the keys comes out on its own and the lock stays securely in place, if not the lock comes with it.

 

[Jon]

Let me know how you get on

 

[lennythelion]

Fantastic reply and pics.I'll give this a go in the week.Many thanks,much appreciated.

 

[lennythelion]

Locks now changed thanks to jon's pics.I drilled a 3mm hole in the plastic housing beside the leaf that needs pushing in and it was easy after that.Thanks again JON.