1150 broken exhaust stud

[dancerdave]

Was at my mate Jaythro's today when he noticed one of the exhaust studs had sheared off at the cylinder head
I've done a search here and there isn't an easy fix. What I was wondering was as its not leaking do I need to do anything ? At least until winter time when I can strip it down.

 

[ilkleyal]

If you need the bike on the road and its still making a good seal leave it aone for now but apply plenty of penetrating fluid often. This may help come extraction time over the winter.

Al

 

[dancerdave]

I'm going to World of BMW next week to do my ROSPA Gold so I'll be doing plenty of miles. I'm lucky I have the option to take my other bike but I'd prefer to do it on the Beemer. Should I, shouldn't I ?

 

[northengit]

Was at my mate Jaythro's today when he noticed one of the exhaust studs had sheared off at the cylinder head
I've done a search here and there isn't an easy fix. What I was wondering was as its not leaking do I need to do anything ? At least until winter time when I can strip it down.

NO. leave it alone. I fecked one of mine ages ago and caused myself lots of grief faffing about trying to get it off /fixed leave it till winter.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Like I said Yesterday Don;t worry about it, it'll be fine and worst case scenario you'll start to hear the bugger blowing out and it can be fixed then when it becomes necessary

At the end of the day how many miles have you done since it dropped off ?

I'm going to World of BMW next week to do my ROSPA Gold so I'll be doing plenty of miles. I'm lucky I have the option to take my other bike but I'd prefer to do it on the Beemer. Should I, shouldn't I ?

 

[bowser]

bought my bike 4 years ago and after a couple of months noticed that one of the exhaust studs had a broken off stud, havent touched it in 4 years and since never needed to get exhaust off not a problem, will face it when I come to it.
However as it is broken level with the face of the exhaust there is a bit of stud sticking out so I am hoping when time comes, a considerable amount of heat on the ali head and a very good quality stud extractor may do the trick, failing that its spark errosion I think, oh and a nut splitter on the other nuts so that it dosent happen to them, clean up the threads with a tap and die set and do what I have done on the rest of my bikes and replace all the exhaust nuts with Brass lock nuts, not the ones with the nylon insert but the ones with the slots cut in them, they work great and never rust up.

 

[MattW]

As others have said, leave it until you fancy having a go - there are loads of GS'es riding around with broken exhaust studs (mine amongst them ).

When I took the exhaust off my 1100 I snapped a stud off on each side. As was having the head skimmed anyway to cure a leaking head gasket, I had the engineering shop drill the stud out and helicoil it (£20). The other side I left as it was and bolted the exhaust back on with one stud missing (1100's have the advantage of three studs / side though). I've replaced all the studs (apart from the remaining snapped one) with new stainless studs and as bowser says, I've used brass nuts - no more blobs of rust on the end of a stud now

When the time comes that you fancy trying to remove your broken stud DON'T USE A STUD EXTRACTOR!!! - they are the work of the devil - if you snap one off (which is highly likely in the small sizes) then it's an expensive trip to an engineering shop for spark erosion.

Remove the exhaust (possibly snapping another stud in the process ), grind the end of the broken stud flat (dremels are great for this), accurately centre punch it and carefully drill it out until you can pick the remaining bits of the stud out of the threads in the head. Then run a tap down the threads and replace the stud (plenty of anti-seize and a brass nut is a good idea as I did).

Failing that, remove the head and take it to an engineers - it's a cheap job but you'll need a new head gasket (they aren't reusable).

 

[dancerdave]

At the end of the day how many miles have you done since it dropped off ?

Duh, no idea
Thanks for the input guys. I'll take the GSA. Wouldn't want those sensible ROSPA people thinking I was some kind of hooligan turning up on a KTM

 

[the celt]

Duh, no idea
Thanks for the input guys. I'll take the GSA. Wouldn't want those sensible ROSPA people thinking I was some kind of hooligan turning up on a KTM

I did the ROSPA with the exhaust held on with one stud...

not a problem...
ps got gold

 

[MikeP]

One of mine snapped.

Drilled it out in situ, didn't even remove the engine bars.

New stud was handy to have so as to gauge depth.

Then replaced all the cap-nuts using plenty of Ali-Slip HT anti-seize.

It's quite easy to drill it out in place. Use a good centre-punch to start with, a very slow drill speed and decent drill bits. Oh and ask your dentist for some of his old picks (very handy for picking the threads clean).

The worst bit was plucking-up the courage to begin drilling.

 

[bowser]

When the time comes that you fancy trying to remove your broken stud DON'T USE A STUD EXTRACTOR!!! - they are the work of the devil - if you snap one off (which is highly likely in the small sizes) then it's an expensive trip to an engineering shop for spark erosion.

QUOTE]

depends on the excractor, I am not talking about the ones where you drill a hole and screw it in, I agree with you on that. I am talking about where you have some stud still sticking out the extractor looks like a long socket with a hol in the end the size of the stud, it has 3 cams on the inside and as you turn it the cams lock onto the stud and get it out with the help of heat, they are a fantastic bit of kit if you get the good quality ones.

like this:-
http://www.drapertoolbox.co.uk/draper-58710-10mm-stud-4307-87936

 

[MattW]

When the time comes that you fancy trying to remove your broken stud DON'T USE A STUD EXTRACTOR!!! - they are the work of the devil - if you snap one off (which is highly likely in the small sizes) then it's an expensive trip to an engineering shop for spark erosion.

QUOTE]

depends on the excractor, I am not talking about the ones where you drill a hole and screw it in, I agree with you on that. I am talking about where you have some stud still sticking out the extractor looks like a long socket with a hol in the end the size of the stud, it has 3 cams on the inside and as you turn it the cams lock onto the stud and get it out with the help of heat, they are a fantastic bit of kit if you get the good quality ones.

like this:-
http://www.drapertoolbox.co.uk/draper-58710-10mm-stud-4307-87936

Ah - yep - they can't do any harm

Unfortunately what the OP will probably find is that the stud has waisted and snapped behind the exhaust flange (at least that's what both the snapped studs on mine had done). This is unlikely to have left anything to get a grip on. There's also not much space around the studs as they're recessed into the exhaust port area of the head. But still worth a go if you've got those cam type extractors.

I'd tried copious amounts of plusgas over a week before I tried taking the exhaust off mine - it didn't make any difference - they just snapped with hardly any pressure on the socket wrench. Thankfully the other studs just wound themselves out of the head with the nut still attached so at least they were easy to replace

 

[MikeP]

http://www.drapertoolbox.co.uk/draper-58710-10mm-stud-4307-87936

I have a set of that type and they do work fine. Only trouble is, there isn't enough room to get it onto a broken exhaust stud. Even though mine sheered flush with the cap-nut and there was plenty of exposed stud, the cooling fins get in the way.