help broken exhaust stud!

[Sgt Bilco]

Are they 3 studs or 2 on the 1200?

There are two.

 

[Pukmeister]

In my experience those "Easy Outs" are anything but. The inventors should be shot.

 

[snaponphil]

1/8 carbide burr at high speed, (air tool really) not for first timers, need a steady hand but will go through bearing tracks, easi outs, broken drills, in fact everything except another carbide burr

Good luck..

 

[SteveM]

In my experience those "Easy Outs" are anything but. The inventors should be shot.

+1

 

[Fanum]

Bolt it up, go on your holiday

When you get to Croatia, find the smallest possible village you can, then find the bloke who has the biggest tractor in the village.

He will get your broken stud out for three pounds fifty, plus he'll feed you, supply you with a bed and if you pay him an extra fiver, you can have his daughter too

 

[bikemad]

Iv had a few jap bikes with one stud holding pipe on,try using silicone yes ordinary diy clear silicone it's fine for gasket use bolt it up let it set overnight,try it next day for a few miles you might be ok till a pro can get a go at it.

Actually my GS didn't have gaskets they just bolt straight on so guess all like that ?

Or see if a garage could weld a stud on to repair it.

Iv had Haynes manuals that are wrong also give incorrect picture of the job too on both cars & bikes ?

 

[Steptoe]

In my experience those "Easy Outs" are anything but. The inventors should be shot.

Easyouts are always recommended by people who've never actually used them, just read about them = internet mechanics.

 

[Roymondo]

Easyouts are always recommended by people who've never actually used them, just read about them = internet mechanics.

I've used them - IME they are fine for removing studs that have sheared on assembly (i.e. failure caused by fatigue/over-tightening) but not where it has sheared on attempting dis-assembly (where the cause is much more likely to be that corrosion has welded the bugger in solid).

 

[cookie]

I've used them - IME they are fine for removing studs that have sheared on assembly (i.e. failure caused by fatigue/over-tightening) but not where it has sheared on attempting dis-assembly (where the cause is much more likely to be that corrosion has welded the bugger in solid).

so no use for the most common cause for shearing then?

apart from being brittle, easy outs have another fatal flaw - as they are screwed in, they expand the bolt into the hole. not a good thing.

if you really, really must use that kind of tool, i'd advise using the parallel, fluted kind.the best quality you can find, not some cheap, chinese shit set of easy outs you've bought at an auto jumble. at least that sort work sometimes.

 

[Zach]

so anyway.......

I did as was suggested - bolted it all back together and it sounded ok but to fook me off further the initial problem is still there! i.e. the replacement sensor has not cured the lack of sensing neutral. It occasionally starts when in neutral or sometimes I have to put it in 3rd or 4th and pull the clutch in to allow the starter to function. When I put the sidestand down with the engine running in neutral it still cuts out. I went for a ride (200 miles) and the bike seemed fine no exhaust blowing and no noticeable loss of power. When riding along the display shows 12345 or 6 as appropriate but no green neutral light or N in the display. Anyone got any ideas?

BTW thanks for all the help and advice so far.

Zach

 

[snelly]

I thought they were supposed to cut out with the sidestand down.

 

[Zach]

yes but not in neutral

 

[Bendy toy]

Mine has a clutch switch fault so no neutral no start :-(
Remind me to get it fixed

 

[Bendy toy]

The only way I've ever got out a sheared stud that's corrosion welded itself into aluminium is by arc welding a nut onto the broken end. The direct extreme heat of arc weld breaks the corrosion grip.
If it's broken flush I had to drill out the remnant and use a thread insert into the butchered hole. I'm far from a good enough welder to weld a washer on.

 

[bikemad]

yes but not in neutral

Mine does simlar things sometimes up n down numbers when idling not in neutral when restart,luckily can just pop stand up n clutch it sounds like you got a duff unit ? I took mine apart cleaned it poss it'll need a reset via 911 someone else did this on another thread.

 

[Zach]

Well a trip to see Vern and some heavy engineering and the exhaust has been secured! Now for the cheeky bit does anyone localish have a 911 and would be prepared to have a go at resetting my new sensor unit please?

Cheers Zach

 

[seahorse]

I'm in St. Albans with a GS911. Probably not local enough but the offer is there.

 

[Zach]

Seahorse thanks for the offer but as you say quite a distance away from me. I am trying to find a more local solution. I think the issue may be cured by plugging in a gs911and resetting the parameters for the gear sensing then running the bike through the gears on the centre stand (back wheel off the ground!) so the electrical witchcraft can learn the positions again. This solution is based purely on conjecture - there may be another problem about which I know nothing!!
Benhams may squeeze me in today (since they sold me the new sensor) or I have an appointment to see Mikeyboy on Monday. Will post an update then.

 

[littleredrooster]

Easyouts are always recommended by people who've never actually used them, just read about them = internet mechanics.

Indeed, and it pre-dates t'internet.

I was given a set in 1971 as a Christmas present. They are still mint and unused in my toolchest. One day, one day...

 

[Bendy toy]

If we snapped a high pressure turbine stud on a 200MW steam turbine. It took 2 weeks to drill it out and eventually extract the old thread as a shell.
They were 4" diameter authentic stainless and we did have a magnetic mount pillar drill. But stainless work a hardens under the drill and broken bits were not uncommon.