1150 GS engine paint

brewking

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The salt has attacked my lovely bike and now some of the paint on the engine has started to flake and bubble. Was not able to rinse the salt off with cold water post ride for a week. What is the best way of sorting this?

Is it ok th put ACF50 on a surface that will heat up?

Can you buy the paint that the engine has been covered with and touch it up?

Thanks for any help
 
The salt has attacked my lovely bike and now some of the paint on the engine has started to flake and bubble. Was not able to rinse the salt off with cold water post ride for a week. What is the best way of sorting this?

Is it ok th put ACF50 on a surface that will heat up?

Can you buy the paint that the engine has been covered with and touch it up?

Thanks for any help

You can put ACF50 on anything - it'll just smoke and burn off exhausts and really hot stuff but engine casings will be fine.

You can't get the exact paint for the casings but most people use Hammerite smooth silver which is a pretty near match.

There's lots on here from people who've done their casings using it.

I did my front cover with it last year and while a long way from showroom it's much better than it was (casing screws changed to stainless since pictures taken ;) ).

IMG_5575.JPG


IMG_5584.JPG
 
Ta for the hammerite suggestion Matt as i think i will need to try that for the front of mine as it was peeling a little when i first got the bike but is a little worse now 1 and 1/2 winters on. :thumb2

As for the original question the engine on mine has been covered in ACF for the last few weeks and will be all winter ;)
 
The paint on mine is OK.

Does a fenda extenda' prevent this for happening? I am planning on getting one for my bike and would like to know if it's worth to or not.

Dan.
 
The paint on mine is OK.

Does a fenda extenda' prevent this for happening? I am planning on getting one for my bike and would like to know if it's worth to or not.

Dan.

Can't hurt - I have one and I put an engine guard on mine after I painted it:
IMG_5585.JPG
 
Ah... Never noticed it was different headers to the 1150
 
I have a fenda extenda fitted and it does help a bit in keeping the engine clean so worth it.

That paint looks good thanks. Is ACF50 better than the scotoiler anti corrosion spray?
 
I'm going to figure out a cheap crud-catcher when I next respray the engine cover.

I made the one in my post above - £5 worth of 2mm stainless from ebay a hacksaw and some files. Not saying it's a laser cut thing of beauty :D but it does he job.
 
Must be a fellow Yorkshireman

We're not tight, just careful ;)

Missed that - looks a fine thing and it will hide the corroded spot on the engine cover, so I won't have to paint it - I'm sure you won't mind if I copy it?

I guess there are spacers behind the (presumably) longer casing bolts?

Does it trap salty crap behind it and make the rot worse?
 
We're not tight, just careful ;)

Missed that - looks a fine thing and it will hide the corroded spot on the engine cover, so I won't have to paint it - I'm sure you won't mind if I copy it?

I guess there are spacers behind the (presumably) longer casing bolts?

Does it trap salty crap behind it and make the rot worse?

I'm not a Yorkshireman but my grandad was - guess it must be in the genes ;)

Copy it by all means.
I've still got the cardboard template I used to make it - I could post it to you if you like.

I used M6 stud connectors as spacers - loctited a piece of M6 stainless studding into one side to make a replacement casing bolt, with short socket screws into the other side of the connector holding the guard.

The guard needs a forward bend in it just above the top fixing screws in order to clear the plastic front cover. Bear this in mind when selecting your stainless sheet - my 2mm was a sod to bend - 1.6 or even 1mm would be fine and much easier to work.

No evidence that it traps crap so far...
 
Cheers for that Matt - no need for the template, but ta for the offer. I'll let you know how I get on (will be next weekend now...)
 
I was thinking about this subject recently too. Just acquired an 1150 that has a pretty good engine cover considering. There's only one small area of corrosion around one of the mounting bolts.

Was considering either a fender extender or a crud catcher but wasn't certain about spending £50 on the latter!
 
1150GS engine paint

I bought a new crud catcher from this site and with the fender extender a lot of the muck doesn't reach the front engine cover. As I intend to keep my 1150 I thought it was money well spent.Anyway, the bike goes faster when its clean-less dirt, less weight!
 
Do I take it you painted the casing without removing it. Mine's in a state and I was, while idly pondering wire brushing and painting it, how big a pain it was to remove.
 
Do I take it you painted the casing without removing it. Mine's in a state and I was, while idly pondering wire brushing and painting it, how big a pain it was to remove.

Yep - painted it without removing it (or the exhaust).
Mine was quite a mess with several parts of the lower case paint bubbled - I used a mixture of nitromors (bit of pain in the arse with the case still on the bike) and mechanical means (dremel with home made scotchbrite pad tools) to strip the lower half of the case and feather the existing coating.

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/kXMGBqyP8dpXxEeG11OVSMdIjVbFe8lpPsa0N09Tvn4?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_SSn2CtCOKnU/TFGhgODLd9I/AAAAAAAADfc/V11_3DT4xnY/s800/IMG_5575.JPG" height="800" width="600" /></a>

It was a bit of a pain to mask everything up and manoeuvre the spray can around but quite doable. I changed the case screws for stainless after painting.

Removing the front case involves a degree of dismantling (I'd guess alternator, crankshaft pulley and hall sensor plate off the top of my head) and I believe a new front crank seal - I've never done this - others may be of more help.
 
Yep - painted it without removing it (or the exhaust).
Mine was quite a mess with several parts of the lower case paint bubbled - I used a mixture of nitromors (bit of pain in the arse with the case still on the bike) and mechanical means (dremel with home made scotchbrite pad tools) to strip the lower half of the case and feather the existing coating.

It was a bit of a pain to mask everything up and manoeuvre the spray can around but quite doable. I changed the case screws for stainless after painting.

Removing the front case involves a degree of dismantling (I'd guess alternator, crankshaft pulley and hall sensor plate off the top of my head) and I believe a new front crank seal - I've never done this - others may be of more help.

Thanks, might try that myself when I can take the bike off the road for a few days.
 


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