1150 GS Final Drive
- Thread starter B4ndit
- Start date
Yep - I supported the FD on an axles stand to keep it level (although blocks of wood etc would work just as well). When the pivot pinions are out just withdraw it backwards keeping it level.
You don't have to remove the final drive. Just remove the pivot pins and leave it attached by the torque arm is the easiest way . Insert a suitably sized socket and tap the old bearings out.
Trullion
Registered user
I used suitable sockets on an extension bar and knocked them out easily, having loosened the loctite with a cheapo hot air gun from Aldi. The job was straightforward. To refit I pretty much did what Matt has said, not bothering with any special tools. As Steptoe has said before, I didn't bother using loctite when replacing the bearings; this way it is easy to adjust the inner pivot bearing in future without dismantling anything. A witness mark allows me to keep an eye on whether or not the nuts have moved. This hasn't happened in over two years. By the way, acetone in nail varnish remover is good for dissolving the remaining loctite on the threads in the swinging arm - though don't tell the missus 
The rear is now off. One bearing fell apart on dismantling and was easy to remove. The other bearing is proving to be a bit of a pig. How on earth do you get a socket inside the rear wheel bit. There a big joint in the way. Now your going to tell me that comes off.
Anyway going to try and source some 27 mm washers to build a pulley out of.
Attached are two pictures of the pivots. Should I be looking at replacing them. I don't want to unless I really have to. But both show a little sign of abrasion. But you can't feel anything rough.
Anyway going to try and source some 27 mm washers to build a pulley out of.
Attached are two pictures of the pivots. Should I be looking at replacing them. I don't want to unless I really have to. But both show a little sign of abrasion. But you can't feel anything rough.
Attachments
It sounds as though you have left the universal joint attached. Give it a yank or a lever with a flat blade screwdriver and it should slide off the splines and you'll end-up with this:
Yep your right. I left it on. When I start back tomorrow I shall get that bit out. Should be real easy to get in with a socket then. Thanks for the help.
Ugly Cow
Registered user
Fat side out? Or have I got it totally wrong.
You are out of your depth, this is not a dig at you, just get some practical help from someone who understands what is required and can show you basic engineering skills. Hope you don,t take this the wrong way.
You are out of your depth, this is not a dig at you, just get some practical help from someone who understands what is required and can show you basic engineering skills. Hope you don,t take this the wrong way.
Fat side of the inner race to the outside - think about the way the bearing fits together - you want to be forcing the bearing together when you tension the adjustable pivot.
When drifting / pressing the new bearing in to place be very careful to only seat your drift on the outer race - don't go hammering on the inner race. A bit of heat on the housing that the bearing fits into can help. Also It's worth popping the inner race out of the new bearing and lathering a bit of extra grease in there (use high moly grease like that specified for CV joints - the same grease is good for greasing the drive shaft splines before re-asembling)
Then, when you torque up the adjustable pinion, slightly over tension it (only slightly) and rotate the FD up and down (you'll need to unbolt the torque arm). Then back it off and apply the final tension to the adjustable pinion.
When drifting / pressing the new bearing in to place be very careful to only seat your drift on the outer race - don't go hammering on the inner race. A bit of heat on the housing that the bearing fits into can help. Also It's worth popping the inner race out of the new bearing and lathering a bit of extra grease in there (use high moly grease like that specified for CV joints - the same grease is good for greasing the drive shaft splines before re-asembling)
Then, when you torque up the adjustable pinion, slightly over tension it (only slightly) and rotate the FD up and down (you'll need to unbolt the torque arm). Then back it off and apply the final tension to the adjustable pinion.
Its all in bits. So I was just hoping for some pointers to re assemble it correctly.
We all have to learn somewhere.
If you know the answer it would be appreciated. Sorry if I don't know the technical terms but I learn quick and was just trying to keep it simple.
If the forums aren't for this sort of thing what are they for? Dare I ask.
We all have to learn somewhere.
If you know the answer it would be appreciated. Sorry if I don't know the technical terms but I learn quick and was just trying to keep it simple.
If the forums aren't for this sort of thing what are they for? Dare I ask.
Thanks for that. I see from a search you first went through this process about 5 years ago so its good you can give feedback to others travelling the same path.
Ugly Cow
Registered user
We all have to learn somewhere.
Make no mistake, if I was near you I would have popped down to assist you. Just feel that learning when something that can go very wrong is not the best time to learn, best to learn by someone else's experience.
Make no mistake, if I was near you I would have popped down to assist you. Just feel that learning when something that can go very wrong is not the best time to learn, best to learn by someone else's experience.
The fixed pivot and bearing you picture earlier show some signs of wear - a kind of less extreme version of mine:
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/QYGeApJd4sZr46UMKRiHItMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-o7IphDpMLwg/ScfFUaRrf7I/AAAAAAAABhM/F8RXGshEY50/s640/IMG_4351.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/und9WHfa013kBdJx90CVoNMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-07rIc2N9oaM/ScfFWDxp2WI/AAAAAAAABhU/kFvumQLXV60/s640/IMG_4363.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a>
This happens when the bearing races get grooved by the needles - called brinelling (which incidentally, is why you should never drop a bearing)
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dOf9boKQwvNbM1nN7NBNidMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-k4WQYbsdwyg/ScdT1LaKCOI/AAAAAAAABZQ/u9GojF24rsk/s800/IMG_4348.JPG" height="600" width="800" /></a>
which causes the races to lock together. Then, in order for the FD to rotate, the locked bearing spins on the pivot and slowly starts to wear it away.
Whether the fixed pivot needs replacing is a judgement call - I'd pop the inner race out of the new bearing and try it on the pivot - see how it fits (you won't be able to do this with the assembled bearing - too much play in it). If it's wobbling about all over the place, you probably know the answer...
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/QYGeApJd4sZr46UMKRiHItMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-o7IphDpMLwg/ScfFUaRrf7I/AAAAAAAABhM/F8RXGshEY50/s640/IMG_4351.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/und9WHfa013kBdJx90CVoNMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-07rIc2N9oaM/ScfFWDxp2WI/AAAAAAAABhU/kFvumQLXV60/s640/IMG_4363.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a>
This happens when the bearing races get grooved by the needles - called brinelling (which incidentally, is why you should never drop a bearing)
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dOf9boKQwvNbM1nN7NBNidMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-k4WQYbsdwyg/ScdT1LaKCOI/AAAAAAAABZQ/u9GojF24rsk/s800/IMG_4348.JPG" height="600" width="800" /></a>
which causes the races to lock together. Then, in order for the FD to rotate, the locked bearing spins on the pivot and slowly starts to wear it away.
Whether the fixed pivot needs replacing is a judgement call - I'd pop the inner race out of the new bearing and try it on the pivot - see how it fits (you won't be able to do this with the assembled bearing - too much play in it). If it's wobbling about all over the place, you probably know the answer...
Trullion
Registered user
When I put my new bearings in I used a little heat on the swinging arm and put the bearings in the freezer, so that the force needed to drive the bearings home was minimal.
The pivot pins don't look too healthy to me.
The pivot pins don't look too healthy to me.
I think I would be inclined to use your pivot pins,
The wear does not look great enough to force the inner bearing eccentrically, (is that a word?) so you just want to stop it rotating on the shaft so " bearing fit" should do the trick.
Something like loctite 270/1 stud-n-bearing fit will do the trick.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270-1-Loc...plies_Paint&hash=item256280ef44#ht_1026wt_754
The wear does not look great enough to force the inner bearing eccentrically, (is that a word?) so you just want to stop it rotating on the shaft so " bearing fit" should do the trick.
Something like loctite 270/1 stud-n-bearing fit will do the trick.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270-1-Loc...plies_Paint&hash=item256280ef44#ht_1026wt_754
All back together now. Thanks for the help everyone.
Dramas were one bearing race that required a proper puller to remove and the first bearing I put back in took a little persuasion.
I had the pivot pins checked by my local bike shop and they were pronounced fit for purpose.
It feels good now its all back together. Wonder how long it will last.
Dramas were one bearing race that required a proper puller to remove and the first bearing I put back in took a little persuasion.
I had the pivot pins checked by my local bike shop and they were pronounced fit for purpose.
It feels good now its all back together. Wonder how long it will last.
Ugly Cow
Registered user
Glad it worked out well, give it a thousand miles and re-torque after the bearings have settled.
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