1150 GS Twin spark - Exhaust Stud Removal

seags

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Hi all,

Can anyone help please, I need to find out the best course of action for seized exhaust studs on my 1150 - local bike dealer have tried using heat and failed so I have removed the heads this afternoon as I have been told the studs will need grinding flush and then drill / helicoil.

Anyone got any experience of this / advice / know who can do this?

Many thanks

Nick
 
Better left to the pros, in my experience. find a local to you engineering firm to do the work. Shouldn't cost too much.

at the same time get them to clean the heads for you?
 
Timpo did a pair of heads for GS1150 a while back and they were perfect and NOT expensive except posting them to him and that was out of his control

:thumb

Hi all,

Can anyone help please, I need to find out the best course of action for seized exhaust studs on my 1150 - local bike dealer have tried using heat and failed so I have removed the heads this afternoon as I have been told the studs will need grinding flush and then drill / helicoil.

Anyone got any experience of this / advice / know who can do this?

Many thanks

Nick
 
If you have got the heads off - dont grind it till you have seen a few replys on here first
If there is any stud left - my tip would be get some "plus gas" try and warm the stud up with either blowlamp or some other heat then shock it with plusgas and leave it for and hour do this quite a few times tap the end of the stud but dont knock it that hard you damage the threads keep repeating then grip it with a stud extractor or molegrips turn a bit then back and plusgas all the times
May work = good luck :thumb2
 
I had a similar problem with one snapped stud this time last year.

After considering all the options I decided to drill it out in situ. Apart from having my heart in my mouth at first, it turned-out to be a lot less difficult than I thought. A really fine centre-punch to make certain that the drill didn't slip off the stud, then a fine drill-bit to create a guide hole.

A set of quality drill-bits is essential and a slow drill.

I didn't even have to helicoil it, just cleaned out the thread with a fine steel pick and ran a tap down it.
 
Studs

Take it to an engineering firm don't muck about, they will sort it what does work but is NOT for diy is to put the rod on an arc welder (high current) earth clamp on head(tight) turn 9t on at the highest current till the stud gets red hot leave it for a bit then let it cool and you can take 9t oput with your fingers. Seen it done but NOT a diy job.
Dave GS.
 
A local engineering firm drilled and helicoiled one of my exhaust studs for £20.

That said, I was taking the head off anyway as I was changing the head gasket. If it happened again I'd drill it in-situ as MikeP did.

As you've already removed the head then I'd get an engineer to do it.

PS - don't forget you'll need new head gaskets.
 
Hi all,

thanks for the replies - i dropped into a small engineering shop today, they have done loads of these for Bath Road BMW and helicoil is the way forward approx £15 per stud.

Cheers
 
This works

get a plumbers soldering mat and put a small hole in it,put over the broken stud,then put a mild steel non galvanised nut over the broken stud and weld it on.
The immense heat will loosen the stud, then undo with a spanner or socket.
Ive done loads like this,you can do them in situ as well, if done carefully,disconnect the battery first though, and protect everything from weld spatter fire and flames.
prob safer to take off fuel tank too.
 
Hi all,

thanks for the replies - i dropped into a small engineering shop today, they have done loads of these for Bath Road BMW and helicoil is the way forward approx £15 per stud.

Cheers

Good call :thumb2

get a plumbers soldering mat and put a small hole in it,put over the broken stud,then put a mild steel non galvanised nut over the broken stud and weld it on.
The immense heat will loosen the stud, then undo with a spanner or socket.
Ive done loads like this,you can do them in situ as well, if done carefully,disconnect the battery first though, and protect everything from weld spatter fire and flames.
prob safer to take off fuel tank too.

If it's anything like mine it'll be heavily waisted and will have snapped off more or less flush leaving nothing to weld to.
 


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