Exhaust Stud removal

[MikeP]

One of the four has sheared. It's snapped flush with the base of the cap-nut, so there's about 3/4 inch of stud left.

Problem is, it's the lower one and access is restricted.

I've tried the "two nuts" method but there isn't enough room to get anything but a stubby ring spanner onto the lower nut and I can't get much leverage on it.

I have a set of extractors similar to these:

However, the fins below the broken stud are too close to allow the 8mm extractor to get onto it.

Has anyone any experience of this type of extractor:

Are they any good?

Is the tapered nose slim enough to get on the stud?

 

[Stewart H]

How about running a nut part way down the threads then getting a blob of weld on the end of the stud, you would have something to put a six sided socket onto, and the thermal shock will probably make it let go as well.
Not familiar with the extractor pictured.
Stewart

 

[MattW]

If you've got access to a welder, I'd go with Stewart's suggestion. The heat will definitely help - they can be a sod to get moving (my 1100 snapped one on each side off flush with the head - had to get them drilled out and helicoiled).

 

[Steptoe]

Has anyone any experience of this type of extractor:

Are they any good?

Is the tapered nose slim enough to get on the stud?

Don't use them for the exhaust stud. 99% the stud will snap off flush with the head and then the fun will start .

Get some proper (oxy) heat on what you have left of the stud and then remove it .

 

[uncle dick]

I've got a stud extractor just like that and, to be honest, it doesn't really fit anywhere! It certainly won't do 1100 exhaust studs. As the others said, welding a nut over the end might work but it'll still be a struggle. I ended up taking the heads off and when I'd messed up the paintwork I gave them a nice coat of Hammerite smooth, quick re-grind of the valves and Bob's yer uncle.

And... take the opportunity to get the valve cover threads helicoiled at the same time.

I've made it sound a bit long winded haven't I

Dick

 

[Number 6]

Get some proper (oxy) heat on what you have left of the stud and then remove it .

Get it glowing red-hot, let it cool a few seconds back to black and it should come out easily

 

[MikeP]

Thanks for the replies.

As I haven't got access to Oxy at home (I knew that one day I'd kick myself for passing-up the opportunity to acquire a mini-Oxy-Acetylene set when I had the chance ), I'll whip the head off and take it where I can put it to the torch.

 

[Steptoe]

Thanks for the replies.

As I haven't got access to Oxy at home (I knew that one day I'd kick myself for passing-up the opportunity to acquire a mini-Oxy-Acetylene set when I had the chance ), I'll whip the head off and take it where I can put it to the torch.

You must know some old safe blaggers, they'll have a torch you can borrow

Or get a family sized box of swan vestas.

 

[Stewart H]

Thanks for the replies.

As I haven't got access to Oxy at home (I knew that one day I'd kick myself for passing-up the opportunity to acquire a mini-Oxy-Acetylene set when I had the chance ), I'll whip the head off and take it where I can put it to the torch.

Seems drastic unless you were taking the head off anyway

Stewart

 

[MattW]

Seems drastic unless you were taking the head off anyway

Stewart

Indeed.
The head gasket is also a one time only affair so you'll need to order a new one if you do pull the head.

 

[littleredrooster]

A small propane blowtorch and some patience can work as well.

What a lot of people forget is that if is has sheared once because it is seized, it will shear again if you just try to remove it under the same circumstances. Heat is your friend!

....and can I repeat my mantra that WD40 is one of LEAST effective penetrating oils you can get. Useless - buy some Plus Gas or some of that stuff that Steptoe gets in 45 gallon drums!

 

[CRIMBO KEV]

Don't use them for the exhaust stud. 99% the stud will snap off flush with the head and then the fun will start .

Get some proper (oxy) heat on what you have left of the stud and then remove it .

thats what we do at our place. best way to remove them

 

[turnipbmw]

funnily enough I have been trying to get a broken ex stud out of the other halfs CB500 today.

gas torch didn't help and arc welded 4 different nuts onto it.

each time, they just came off with a bit more thread

can only think it must be cross threaded.

very tedious

have done dozens of these over the last 30 years, especially Suzuki GSs

Sometimes, if you're really lucky, you can drill out the old stud, bit at a time and eventually it gives up and comes out.

Just dont use an 'easy out' or break the drill

I will probably just use another head

 

[MattW]

As my head was coming off anyway (leaking head gasket), I took it to a local engineering shop who drilled the flush snapped stud out and helicoiled it.

I then took it back the following week to get the head skimmed when it still leaked after refitting

 

[MikeP]

Seems drastic unless you were taking the head off anyway

Stewart

Indeed.
The head gasket is also a one time only affair so you'll need to order a new one if you do pull the head.

About twenty quid for a head-gasket.

What are the alternatives?

Buy/borrow an Oxy set (which I'd have to haul to my place somehow)?

Transport my bike to the Oxy kit?

Try my Butane blow lamp, possibly bugger what's left of the stud and then have to take the head off to pay someone to get the broken stud out?

Way I see it, whipping the head off and being able to get it onto a bench while I still have some stud to work on is probably the least expensive option.

It's not as if I use my GS for anything but long trips, it's been SORN'd since last December and circumstances dictate that I'm not able to take any trips before next Spring at the earliest.

 

[MattW]

About twenty quid for a head-gasket.

What are the alternatives?

Buy/borrow an Oxy set (which I'd have to haul to my place somehow)?

Transport my bike to the Oxy kit?

Try my Butane blow lamp, possibly bugger what's left of the stud and then have to take the head off to pay someone to get the broken stud out?

Way I see it, whipping the head off and being able to get it onto a bench while I still have some stud to work on is probably the least expensive option.

It's not as if I use my GS for anything but long trips, it's been SORN'd since last December and circumstances dictate that I'm not able to take any trips before next Spring at the earliest.

Take your point Mike - as I've got no access to oxy or an arc welder I'd probably take the head off. I have heard of people grinding the end of the snapped stud off neatly, centre popping it accurately and then drilling in situ. I've never tried it so I don't know whether I'd be confident enough to do that

 

[(RIP) Mark H]

You could simply leave it as it is until other work on the head is required, I've heard of R1100's (3 studs) running around perfectly OK with one or two broken studs, I guess yours is an 1150 with 2 studs, should be OK one one ?

 

[(RIP) Kaister]

hot air paint stripper gun and seal the surrounding area from the heat - make a heatguard from a bit of sheet metal .

worth a try -

 

[uncle dick]

If you think you may have warped things then re-face the head using some plate glass and grinding paste - works a treat but make sure it gets a good clean afterwards

Dick

 

[billykid_99]

happened to me about two weeks ago,

tried heating it up with propane and oxy, also tried 2 nuts together and welding a nut to the thread, ( 2 atempts). could'nt get a stud extractor on, none of these worked.

ended up taking the head off for an engineering company to drill out and fit a helicoil.

new head gasget / stud / cap nut.

all back together.