1150 GS Wont Start. Possible Fuel Pump
- Thread starter B4ndit
- Start date
It's really confusing this, isn't it?
Ignore the highlighter markings and concentrate of the fuel pump. In fact that photo doesn't really cover everything.
Do you have that diagram in your Paynes manual?
Ignore the highlighter markings and concentrate of the fuel pump. In fact that photo doesn't really cover everything.
Do you have that diagram in your Paynes manual?
No, B4ndit. It was pre-highlighted. Here you can see the fuel pump wiring system. May help?
Ditch, the only thing interesting that you can´t see is the blue/brown wire from the fuel pump relay. It came from the motronic, if it´s the problem.......uffffff
richierex
Registered user
engine will turn over with the stand down on a 1150. It just wont start, no feed to the fuel pump. Does this sound familiar?
engine will turn over with the stand down on a 1150. It just wont start, no feed to the fuel pump. Does this sound familiar?
Sorry I'm late
Easy Check Ohm meter to Ohms and sidestand up no reading sidestand down a circuit
engine will turn over with the stand down on a 1150. It just wont start, no feed to the fuel pump. Does this sound familiar?
What are you guys telling me then!
Not Sure now but there's an easy test
Bare with me I am thinking this thru as I go along
put bike in gear (use centrestand and keep rear wheel of the ground!)
I suspect that with the stand down the motor will neither spin on the starter nor prime the pump UNTIL you pull in the clutch
with the stand up it should still not spin the motor or prime until the clutch lever is pulled in
I'm away to see If I can knobble a mate's bike for ten mins to verify!
Bare with me I am thinking this thru as I go along
put bike in gear (use centrestand and keep rear wheel of the ground!)
I suspect that with the stand down the motor will neither spin on the starter nor prime the pump UNTIL you pull in the clutch
with the stand up it should still not spin the motor or prime until the clutch lever is pulled in
I'm away to see If I can knobble a mate's bike for ten mins to verify!
Correct no starter motor spin until clutch pulled in but no motronic, and therefore no pump prime
Not true. With stand up motronic on and pump primes. No starter motor until clutch pulled in.
Just tried it on my 2003 1150GS
thanks Ian I was trying to remember that bit Granty's not arrived yet to check but hey Ho he gets a free coffee
Bugger but it's cold out there!
Maybe an absurd question but, did you check the kill switch is in its correct position?
Here´s a bigger view of the electrical wiring (don´t care about hightlining):
Here´s a bigger view of the electrical wiring (don´t care about hightlining):
Another thing to check (before you strip the fuse box), is the contacs of the relay base:
The power supply for the fuel pump comes from the fuel pump relay. The same power goes to both the injectors and the hall sensor.
If there is only .3v at the fuel pump conector, then check for voltage at the injector electrical connectors and hall sensor connector. If they are all the same voltage (0.3v) then the fault is likely to be upstream at the fuel pump relay wiring. If there is 12v at the injector connectors and the hall sensor connector. Then carry out a continuity test between these point with respect to one another and earth. Pull the fuel pump relay and include 87 of the relay base in your continuity test. They should all be connected together with no drop in resistance between them. If you leave a plug connected you will likely get false readings as there are coils in the ejectors and the hall sensor.
If there is only .3v at the fuel pump conector, then check for voltage at the injector electrical connectors and hall sensor connector. If they are all the same voltage (0.3v) then the fault is likely to be upstream at the fuel pump relay wiring. If there is 12v at the injector connectors and the hall sensor connector. Then carry out a continuity test between these point with respect to one another and earth. Pull the fuel pump relay and include 87 of the relay base in your continuity test. They should all be connected together with no drop in resistance between them. If you leave a plug connected you will likely get false readings as there are coils in the ejectors and the hall sensor.
Forget all the testing bollox posted so far - lets get back to proper old fashioned simple fault finding.
Feed your fuel pump directly with 12v and keep it running, turn ignition on and press the starter and see if it starts.
If it does start the problem can now only be in one place - If it doesn't start you have two items to check.
I'll let you work out what and which parts, it'll help in your diagnostic education.
Ok. Can it wait until the morning. Its been a long day. I am not starting work till lunch time so will get this done by then.
Well my bikes truly knackered. It turns over whether I have the stand up or down in gear clutch in or out.
Fuel injector voltage is .3V. Not checked Hall sensor yet.
But, in one of the left conectors you can have +12 with the power switch on.
Now I don´t know if the upper or the lower, it´s raining and I can´t secure you it. They are the equivalent of 85 & 86 contacts in a normal relay, numbered 1 & 2 for BMW relay.
Your right one of the left connectors in your original picture does have 12V in. Its the one that comes from the motronic relay. The next port of call for this 12v is the Lambda sensor. Checking the lambda sensor connector I get .3V
Quick update. After following the circuit diagram and trying to work things over in my head and checking all sorts of circuits I might have something.
The bike is all in bits now so I can't confirm my findings with the actuation of the fuel pump.
But now I can get 12V at the connector that goes to the pump in the fuel tank (Fuel tank is off at the moment).
I can also get 12V at the lambda sensor now compared to .3V earlier.
What did I do. Well first of all I shorted the relay circuit with a piece of wire. It read 12V straight then. So I cleaned the connections which looked perfect to me and now I can have the relay in place and get 12V at the lambda connector and fuel pump connector. But only for one second and then it goes low again. Is this a feature of the bike or do I still need to keep looking for my problem?
It may well have been doing this earlier as my testing wasn't quite as thorough and to tell you the truth I am not sure at all of what I am looking at. But its keeping me out of trouble at the moment.
Quick update. After following the circuit diagram and trying to work things over in my head and checking all sorts of circuits I might have something.
The bike is all in bits now so I can't confirm my findings with the actuation of the fuel pump.
But now I can get 12V at the connector that goes to the pump in the fuel tank (Fuel tank is off at the moment).
I can also get 12V at the lambda sensor now compared to .3V earlier.
What did I do. Well first of all I shorted the relay circuit with a piece of wire. It read 12V straight then. So I cleaned the connections which looked perfect to me and now I can have the relay in place and get 12V at the lambda connector and fuel pump connector. But only for one second and then it goes low again. Is this a feature of the bike or do I still need to keep looking for my problem?
It may well have been doing this earlier as my testing wasn't quite as thorough and to tell you the truth I am not sure at all of what I am looking at. But its keeping me out of trouble at the moment.
Similar threads
