1150GS not running right..

[Hay Ewe]

Mmmmm
Intriguing
Start with the simple things.
You didnt say if you have pulled out thw bowden box abd cleaned that (yeah i know, not actualy a simple task) and also also disconnect the fast idle cable.
That will eliminate some throttle problems.
Also clean the twist grip thorttle mechanism, but dont spray down the cables.
If you decide to replace the cables (one from twist grip, two from the bowden box to the tb, note that there is an upgrade for the twist grip section, details on MaxBMW parts pages)
This likely wont solve all the problems, but may help and will eliminate something.
The TPS can be tricky. There are two tracks inside, one for 0% to about 23% and the other for 20% and upwards (about those numbers).
I once came off and damaged the tps. Wouldnt run at all well, unplug it and in a 'limp home mode'.
Try those if you like, but the part where it gets to two bars warm and then has a problem, thats tricky. It probably relates to the fueling map, a sensor is saying warm now, use this fuel quantity.
As it has been parked for some time outside, there could be low / high resistance in a wire somewhere, and that is going to be tricky to work out, you put a new temp sensor in (is that working as per spec - likely) so check the connectors for ver d gris, good connection, and check the condition of the wiring as far as you can to the ECU.

 

[Rugged Path]

I have the same problem of not running and having spent £2K on new parts and labour at an indie beemer shop nearby, it was still giving me problems.
Just installing a new hall sensor unit and having removed some tie-wraps pulled the female side of the plug fully out.
And found some wires with broken sheathing and enough to cause touching.
So maybe my OEM sensor is OK.

First I will try some electrical tape as a quick wrap-around fix and see if it fires up.
Second; remove plug and pins to shrink wrap wires. But how to remove the pins without destroying plug innards?

Another question!
Is that plugged wire coming off the wiring harness or a separate cable from sensor plug to another plug elsewhere?

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[Ian J Hartley]

Second; remove plug and pins to shrink wrap wires. But how to remove the pins without destroying plug innards?

The connector is a 6 way sealed Micro quad lock system. They’re relatively easy to dismantle and extract the contacts. Carefully.

Another question!
Is that plugged wire coming off the wiring harness or a separate cable from sensor plug to another plug elsewhere?

I haven’t got a clue what you are on about. But I’ll take a guess. The hall sensor and harness, connects via a 6 way sealed micro quad lock connector at the headstock to the main wiring harness.

 

[Rugged Path]

Ian:
I haven’t got a clue what you are on about. But I’ll take a guess. The hall sensor and harness, connects via a 6 way sealed micro quad lock connector at the headstock to the main wiring harness.

Correct, looked at the wiring diagram and the female socket is on the harness to the ECU connector. It is that female socket I need to get the pins out of to repair wiring.

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[Ian J Hartley]

Note. If you push on the wire towards the housing, it will help relieve the pressure on the pin locking tab.

Gentle is the key here, you may have to fiddle about until you get success, then you will understand the technique.

Installation is the reverse, remembering to move the locking bar to re lock the pins.

 

[Ian J Hartley]

Here you go, what an extracted contact looks like. The seal on the wire will provide a small amount of resistance to extraction.

 

[Rugged Path]

Thanks Ian,
Appreciated .

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[Rugged Path]

I bought a new pre-wired plug set. Cut the old female one off and spliced them together with soldered connectors.
I also checked for continuity between hall sensor 'harness' pins going to ECU connection (see photo). So there is continuity.
Question?
Where the original damaged bare wires shown on a previous photo I sent above had shorted together, could it have damaged the electrics inside the ECU.

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[Bakas]

Ok, an update, not a happy one.

Since the last post I have changed the fuel pressure regulator - no change. I thought Im going to check on the spark. Unplugged the spark cable on a hot running bike one by one to find that right side barely fires and the left fires like crazy. Bike kept running while each one side was unplugged. The spark was so uneven side to side that I thought finally I nailed the fault and ordered a new ignition coil straight away. Well, same thing happens with the new coil. While the bike is cold, the unplugging of each side kills the bike and the spark is somewhat even. After it warms up to 2 bars on the dash the spark becomes many times more intense on the left but the bike runs when I unplug each spark plug cable one at a time. Im getting another CDI to see if thats a problem. If that doesnt help Im out of options. Any more ideas??

Thanks!

 

[Rugged Path]

I feel for you Bakas. Having gone through £2K on parts but, mostly labour at an indie mechanic my single spark still doesn't fire up again after getting it home.
A new hall sensor or another ECU box made no difference so assume originals are just as good.

Fuel pump primes, got it running twice and idles nice but now back to square one.
The wiring harness could be the culprit, especially exposed rubber wire sheathing somewhere causing a short.

This summer is a no go anywhere job except fiddling in the garage.


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[Steptoe]

Ok, an update, not a happy one.

Since the last post I have changed the fuel pressure regulator - no change. I thought Im going to check on the spark. Unplugged the spark cable on a hot running bike one by one to find that right side barely fires and the left fires like crazy. Bike kept running while each one side was unplugged. The spark was so uneven side to side that I thought finally I nailed the fault and ordered a new ignition coil straight away. Well, same thing happens with the new coil. While the bike is cold, the unplugging of each side kills the bike and the spark is somewhat even. After it warms up to 2 bars on the dash the spark becomes many times more intense on the left but the bike runs when I unplug each spark plug cable one at a time. Im getting another CDI to see if thats a problem. If that doesnt help Im out of options. Any more ideas??

Thanks!

Have tried swopping the HT leads over and seeing if the problem follows the leads ? ….. hang on, I’ve only had a quick flick through the thread, is it a twin spark or single spark engine ?

 

[Steptoe]

Also check the resistance across both terminals of each injector. They should both be matching at around 16.

 

[flexrider]

Ignition coil:
Measure primary side between terminal 15 and 1: ~0,5 Ohm
Measure secondary side between terminals 4a and 4b: ~13 Kohm

Are you sure you got all the failing tank liner out of the tank?

1150 is 7.5 k ohms on the secondary..... 1100 is 13kohms

 

[Bakas]

Heres the video of what is happening. I did buy a used hall sensor to start the bike. Do you this it causes the problem?

 

[theoneandonly]

swop the coils left to right , see if the problem moves with it. or swop the ht caps . but don't add anything else into the equation.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Heres the video of what is happening. I did buy a used hall sensor to start the bike. Do you this it causes the problem?

Do you realise that doing that is quite bad for the coil????

It only sparks when it is in range
Oh and just in case don;t put your finger where the little electric bit is when you do that!!

 

[theoneandonly]

Do you realise that doing that is quite bad for the coil????

It only sparks when it is in range
Oh and just in case do put your finger where the little electric bit is , and post the video whilst you do it !!

fixed.

 

[Bakas]

Thanks for the great advice lads !